HiMuZuLux
Isuzu Junior
IFS: A great reason to own a 9" angle grinder :)
Posts: 125
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Post by HiMuZuLux on Jan 11, 2006 21:54:24 GMT 11
I'm interested in getting more torque from mine... power and overtaking speed are irrelevant. It passes quite well, and definitely doesn't need to go any faster considering the 36" feet I run on it... I'm interested to know if these mods are effective without the intercooler, as for me thats just going to be something else that will get clogged with mud Oh, and my 96 (facelift) MU has about 130k's and the turbo whistles and sound like the starship enterprise winding down when you turn the motor off... done it since I got it, no better no worse over about 25000kms... I know I should be worried, but it sounds kinda cool, and doesn't seem to be affecting it... Steve
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Post by geeves on Jan 12, 2006 7:02:11 GMT 11
Andrews did that after nudging a sand bank. It lasted 18 months then expired in a cloud of smoke. You might as well run it till this happens and hope its not in the center of nowhere. Theres no maint to be done except replace the whole turbo.
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Post by mudgrip4 on Jan 12, 2006 9:44:14 GMT 11
Have done a few performance mods to my 2.8td and it now runs on dyno at 340nm torque from the original 225nm - about 50% increase. And 155hp. Best single thing to improve low down grunt I've found is to fit 2.5" bigbore ex turbo. Can get you one from clubmate at Autobend in CHch for about $300. Effect of this is to cause turbo to kick in hard at about 1500rpm instead of 2000-2300rpm. Adds extra 500rpm at lower end or range where you need it offroad. For extra 500rpm grunt top end (about 3000 - 3500rpm) and extra horsepower, advance injection pump timing, but NOT to the point that motor rattles. Then tweak up the diesel flow to just a fraction before heavy black. These 3 things seem to compound when done together and should give you a healthy dose of extra hp and torque. Also, improve overall air flow with a good K&N or Unifilter - some of which will drop straight into airbox. The cardboard Isuzu filters are not wonderful. K&N gives up to 10% (when combined with above mods) in maximum load zone - 2500rpm - 3500rpm) when engine trying to suck in max air. Snorkel also helps here. My swb 2.8 blows toyotas and safaris etc easily and the extra grunt has improved its offroad advantage (power to weight ratio) even further so it is now a tremendous little climber and a tough little nut all round.
Mike
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shinz
Isuzu Baby
Posts: 24
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Post by shinz on Jan 18, 2006 13:54:08 GMT 11
Attn. powertruck. Hi Jarrad, could you have a look at this link www.trademe.co.nz/structure/auction_detail.asp?id=45171508&permanent=& if possible tell me if this is a later type turbo as stated or is it not possible to tell externally, it appears to be the same as what I have in my truck.So wondering if I have the later one or not or can't tell. Thanks, Steve
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Post by Roger on Jan 18, 2006 21:14:31 GMT 11
I think the most 3.1 turbos we have done in a week was 8 lol so that kinda gives u and indication they are pretty common normally around the 100k mark thats when the heatshield in behind the turbine wheel lets go, eventually they will go its just a matter of time I think that explains my turbo. It's got faded wreckers writing on it. I bought the MU with 77000km and the tbelt light came on at 150003km.
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