Diff locker Question?

[Pissy]

After a weekend out 4WD, I have come to the conclusion that I need a little more out of 3.1 MU, traction wise . I do not have LSD and am wondering what are the pros and cons with different diff locking mechanisms, LSD, Auto Diff locker and air lockers?
(I know that LSD is not a diff locker)

E.g., would it be better to get a second hand diff with LSD (or get new LSD in current diff), get an auto locker in the front or just get auto lockers all round?
I know that everyone will say air lockers are the way to go but hey, that’s too much money for me plus high chances of CV failures at the front.

Will auto diff lockers do a good job?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
Chris

[justin]

Chris I went down this path about a year or so ago. Air lockers are un doubtably the best, auto lockers are bagged frequently, (unless you talk to the people who have them), and the LSD is great if you have one. I had an LSD already so just wanted a locker for the front. After much research went for a Lokka on the front diff at $650 + install and have never looked back. The traction improvement is considerable. But if I were in your shoes I would attend to the rear diff first, and seeing as you don't have an LSD would go the air locker for the back. I know their expensive but you get the best articulation from the rear and these are the wheels most likely to be on the ground so you don't want them spinning, and LSD will only do this if you stamp on the brakes mid spin, (so I'm told). You will spend the best part of 2K if you go LSD rear and Lokka front, and for that money I'd go Air locker back and the front in 6 months time. Check out the second handers as there are a few floating around. J

[Pissy]

Thanks Justin, I would really want Air Lockers at the backa and auto front, I believe that would the best way to go without CV overload.
What's the going rate for air lockers and install for a 94 3.1 MU (have own air compressor), geez now I am thinking of doing it,..... .

thanks again
Chris

[justin]

For a rear installed you be around the $1400 without the compressor. The front is more expensive due to the labour involved or you can buy Yarno's if he still has it which would be a straight front diff swap. J

[Pissy]

Thanks again Justin,
sorry to bother you again but you mentioned second hand air lockers, I am assuming that wreckers are the way to go for that and is there a particular type, model of air locker to look for? I am I right in thinking that any air locker that fits a Rodeo TF rear diff would fit into a MU?

Rear Air lockers and Auto Diff front, that should done the job.

Cheers

Chris

[justin]

Chris,

I doubt whether the wreckers would have one I was more thinking along the lines of club members who are selling them like Yarno and there was another guy who had a boxed rear one for sale.

If you look on the ARB web site they have a 12 page PDF doc which states the model numbers for Isuzu. The extract of which I have pasted below:

HOLDEN / ISUZU
Shaft Shaft ARB
Diameter Spline Part No.
Isuzu Trooper, Front 1988 on Independent suspension (IFS) 28.4 (1.12") 17 All RD941
Holden Jackaroo Rear 1987-91 Turbo diesel & V6 petrol only 33.5 (1.32") 26 All RD44
1993-97 All models 33.5 (1.32") 26 All RD44
1998-99 Non-LSD models 38.1 (1.50") 23 All RD853
2000 on 38.1 (1.50") 23 All NA3
Holden Rodeo, Front 1988 on Independent suspension (IFS) 28.4 (1.12") 17 All RD941

J

[Pissy]

I keep reading from other forums that Auto Locker in the front will usually cause CV breakage if the front lifts and excessive spin occurs and then drops down on to the ground? But then again I guess air lockers would done the same? There also is so talk talk of the rear Auto lockers are no good for general on road driving as they can engage on large turns and slopes, even worst if a locker is in the front?

Geeish, this is still confusing, I think I will get bigger and better mud tyres and then rethink traction issues

[justin]

I replaced both of my outer CV's over the last year as they were originals, but never had any issues since. I would probably tend to agree the higher the lift the more likely to reduce the life of your Cv's due to the working angle, but that is common place knowledge. As for rear lockers and road driving, well I wouldn't put an auto locker on the rear as they operate by being locked all the time then unlocking when one driving wheel starts revolving slower than the other. (straight out the Lokka operation manual). So again airlocker on the back would be the go. But if you want to match lift & tires against lockers, do the lift and tires first, (lift so you can get the tires of your dreams under, of course) Traction is great but if all 4 wheels are in the air because your 'log catcher' is hung on that central rock there ain't no locker in the world that will get you free. (ain't that right Graham )J

[Pissy]

Justin,

Getting slightly off the topic a bit, CVs,....when you break one/them, does that just destroy your ability to engage the front hubs?
Once broken can just unlock the hubs(if you have free wheeling hubs) and 2wd it home?

I am getting a fair bit of clicking from the front (suspecting CVs) while turning in 4WD and I have noticed 2-3 other members cars doing the same, is this CV problem or just a MU CV thing common to most.

Replacement CVs, the part number, where from and cost if you could be so kind to mention, I tried to find it on your site but not there. Is there/can we put a heavier duty CV or is it just standard size?

Paranoid about breaking CVs

Cheers

[justin]

Dear Paranoid
Normally you will get a clicking or knocking noise when driving round a corner. This will only happen when the CV's are rotating ie. when the hubs are locked in and the axels are spinning. Yes you could snap a CV in half and as long as you tie it clear of the ground you could quite happily drive home in 2wd.

The clicking doesn't mean it's a CV problem, check the hubs are engaged properly, I had a clicking issue that turned out to be a cracked brake pad. The best way to tell if a CV is shot is slide under the car grab just behind the joint on the shaft and give it a hefty wiggle. If there is excessive movement its stuffed. The new ones I got were outer ones from Repco, I don't have the receipt/part no. which was why they weren't on the site. They will have Mitsubishi on the box label and they were around $90 for the kit, (joint,bushes and grease). Just ask for a CV innner or outer for a Holden Jackaroo SWB with the appropriate motor, (4JB1T or 4JG2).
As for heavy duty, I don't know of HD joints but you can certainly get better boots, which there are a few post about on this site. J

[geeves]

Thats a cheap cv I bought a second hand one from a wecker for twice that. I still have the old one as it wasnt the cv causeing the horrendus noises coming from the front of mine. I left it making those noises for 2 years untill Nov 2003 when the free wheel hub started playing up and opening it resulted in a cup of "onion soup" on the garage floor. 2 months later the wheel bearing failed to rust. The real problem was the needle bearing and seal that suports the axle inside the hub.Theres now evidence the other side might be starting to go so will have to keep an eye on it. Ive still got the old cv but postage Wellington to Brisban might be a bit much
I have heard of Porche Cvs being used but dont know any more

[Witchdoctor]

Pissy,
Just had a look at Calmini's site there LSD's look like a good buy at about $720.00 Aus landed if they fit. They are for a 12bolt rear, can any one confirm if they will work on the Oz MU's?

Dave

[nig]

Assuming you are Oz, why would you bother with a US import LSD? - every Rodeo from the late 80s on had an LSD on the back - get one from a wrecker, tighten up the plates and have a bit of beer money left over

[Graham]

I can confirm Justin's statement about the right height and good tyres being better than locking diffs in many situations.

He went out of his way to prove to me that the transfer case guard is very strong - it supported the entire weight of his MU when he parked on the peak of a boulder. It was a good balancing job - we could have just spun the MU around 180 degrees and let him drive back down the hill!

Articulation and grip can get you through/over/around more things than brute force of a locked/lsd diff.