|
Post by geeves on Jul 21, 2008 19:14:26 GMT 11
The cv in the front of the 3.1 Mu is the same as the earlier Mu and 2.8 bighorn. I have one in the front of my bighorn now due to water damage to the old one. I dont know why the Mus break more cv joints than the bighorns but the common factor in just about every one is suspension lift and power applied when turning. This is when the cv as at the highest angle and at its weakest. I saw a 2.8 Mu break 4 cvs in 4 outings One of those was before the locker went in and one included the inards of the diff at the same time. The 3.1 got the better cv but not because its stronger. Its longer in the shafts so runs smaller angles. No help to us.
|
|
|
Post by j-ellis on Jul 21, 2008 19:35:03 GMT 11
ah cheers geeves you certaintly no ur stuff
|
|
|
Post by mudgrip4 on Jul 21, 2008 21:25:04 GMT 11
You may be right regarding 3.1 mu cvs geeves. Certainly the 3.1 bighorn trucks have spindly little cvs - 20mm from memory - though not all of them. Have also seen some wizards with thin cvs and some with wider ones. It may be a matter of where the vehicles were assembled as to what components went in.
Jellis, whatever lift you are doing, plan the type of lift to give protection for the cvs and you'll save alot of trouble. Took me 4 years to break one in my last swb bighorn - and that included 100s of offroad tracks.
As well as setting up properly, it's HUGELY important to learn to drive in a manner to protect the front end also - esp after fitting a front lokka. Basically drive the truck more quietly - you no longer need the revs anyway much, because you will do with traction what you used to do with momentum. Never put on much power when wheels are at full or near full lock, or at near full articulation up or down, or when wedged in a narrow rut. Just ease the truck out of situations, then apply more grunt. And don't bounce front wheels - esp on hard ground. Simple rules, but they make a huge difference in keeping your truck in one piece.
$1200 too much for a lift - it is not that hard - took just as long if not longer to remake brackets to lift the bumpers and sidebars.
And it is not just isuzus that can break cvs - heard of a club chap who broke 5 on a toyota in 3 weeks. I think his chequebook probably taught him how to drive better...
|
|
|
Post by j-ellis on Jul 21, 2008 21:38:15 GMT 11
yeah oh that price didnt include aligning bumbers and my alloy bar thingy or side steps so yeah i think il find some where else so the general consensus is shackels and torsion bars
|
|
|
Post by mudgrip4 on Jul 22, 2008 11:03:26 GMT 11
Shackles and torsion bars fine for lower lifts (say max 60mm extension) but if you want more, body lift should be the bulk of it, because it won't kill front articulation and severely angle and weaken your cvs - especially important if you put in a front locker to keep cvs as flat as possible.
Good luck, Mike
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Jul 22, 2008 15:16:59 GMT 11
Remember that if your paying someone else to do the work that they will want 50 - 80 an hour If there is 5 hours work thats 250 - 400 to add to ther cost of parts. Not everyone can do this work for many reasons so they need to keep this in mind when compareing costs to those of someone who can do everything
|
|
|
Post by j-ellis on Jul 22, 2008 20:59:01 GMT 11
well i think i have found a calmini lift kit (second hand) to fit at the end of the year so i will only be doing the suspension lift now any way. just to get more ground clerance. then at the end of the year i will be doing to whole hog ( body lift and bigger tryes). thanks for all your help guys
|
|
|
Post by mymu2212 on Sept 5, 2008 23:49:39 GMT 11
Jellis just reading your thread and when it comes time for the body lift go to a steel place and buy some solid alloy rod of 2" dia and then cut it to 2" lenths and drill the 10mm holes in the centres and get the bolts from a bolt shop 6- 160mmx10mm with nuts and four 150mmx10mm by 1.25 thread pitch for the back four and do it yourself lots cheaper then buying a kit.... then you only need to get the front bar and side step mounts modified. will only cost $100 to $200 all up.. cheers Glen.
|
|
|
Post by elysian on Sept 6, 2008 17:06:56 GMT 11
OK, here's my input so far.. did a 2 inch body lift last weekend .. 10x 2 inch spacers/blocks - $240 from Snake Racing 6x 160mmx10mm grade 8.8 high tensile bolts - $15 from Nepean Boltmaster 4x 140mmx10mmx1.25 grade 8.8 high tensile bolts - freebies 6x domehead lock nuts to suit 160mm bolts - $2 from Nepean Boltmaster plus a bottle of Wild Turkey and some cash to Muvit for the use of his expertise,driveway and air tools
|
|