What do you think?

[phongsie]

Hi All,

I am a proud owner of a pretty much stock 91 2.8L Mu.

However, a while back I blew the motor but decided to fix it.

I bought a brand new motor and they also gave me a fuel injector which I had to get serviced (apparently the new motors runs with different type of injector, I don't know much about cars . My mechanic mate helped me install it all in however we couldnt get it to start and I ran out of money.

That was 2 years ago, so its been sitting in front of my house ever since. So the time has come to make a decision as I am tired of my current ride.

So the questions are:
How much would the Mu be worth to someone as is?

Or should I spend more money and just get it on the road?

Your feed back would be appreciated.

Thanks
Phong

[guythorn]

save up your dollars and get it back on the road what did you pay for the motor??

Guy

[geeves]

Where are you?
Its a pity youve waited 2 years to get it going as that ruins any attempt at a warrentee claim. Its a bit strange getting a new motor but needing to service the injectors I dont know about any different injectors either. Was it a complete motor or just a long block ie you use your head?

[phongsie]

It was a crate motor, and it cost me $3300... which burnt me cause I bought the Mu for $5000, but I really didnt want to let it go.

I think it was a long motor, as in bottom-end and head?

The issue with the injectors and pumps were that the motor was for a TF Rodeo, and even though the motor hasnt really changed since 91, the injectors were "gear driven instead of belt driven"?. Or maybe the other way around. Does this make any sense?

Its a dilema because I love my Mu, but i'm scared to spend more money on it if it still doesnt work (injector service cost $1500!! plus it migth need a respray as the roof is fading, anyone else's Mu like that?).

At the same time, if I sell it as is, it probably won't go for near what I have spent on it.

[geeves]

Injector pump not injectors themselves. For some unknown reason the early 4jb1 engines were gear driven but the japenese domestic motor went to a belt in 88 but all the ausi assembled engines stayed with the gear drive right through to 99 when this motor was dropped for a 3 liter engine. Ive even heard of the later 4jg2 haveing a gear drive but never seen one.
Im guessing here because we dont have much to go on but the most likly cause for not going is the injector timing is not right. Ive sent a copy of the engine manual to your hotmail which might help. We have a few gurus in Sydney that might be able to help but first can you tell us what it actualy does do when you try and start it

[phongsie]

My mate who was installing the engine started a thread under faults-engine, "timing pump to engine confusion" back in July 06. After he tried everything thrown at him, we kinda gave up.

Talking about it though has now motivated me to get it started again haha... Round 2

[geeves]

2 posts from original thread

Gday, Firstly, if the engine runs on ether then the valve timing is ok.

Dont laugh at this but I have seen it happen, make sure that the pipes from the pump to the injectors are in the right place, ie, that the pipe for #1 cyl is plumbed to the correct outlet on the pump. Compare this with another engine to make double sure.

Another check you can do to check on pump timing is to remove the rocker cover, remove #1 injector and connect it back on to its supply pipe, turn the motor over on the starter until it bleeds and is squirting, when it is, watch the valve rockers for #4 cyl, just as they are "on the rock" ie, both moving at the same time as the ex closes and the inlet opens, (slight overlap) right at this point, #1 injector should squirt.

This will at least tell you that the pump is timed to the correct cylinder and on the correct stroke.

Cheers
Roscoe
Posted by Harry on Aug 1, 2006, 9:18pm
This may sound dumb but the solenoid plugs on the back of the pump can be plugged together instead of the wiring loom.Hard to see clearly amongst the rest of the wiring and plugs.Also make sure the ignition switch is on when bleeding.

I had reason to bleed all my injectors recently. If you leave the line cracked open a little bit the fuel will squirt best part of a meter on crancking. Anouther thing that seems not to of been checked is the injectors themselves. They may have a protective coating on which needs to be cleaned off. You can take the injectors out of the engine and reconect to the line but be very careful The injectors fire at about 300psi which will go through skin which will be a hospital visit if you take a hit on your hand or the white cane shop if you get it in your eye