2" lift by torsion bar crank and shackle extension

Both bump stops work on the top A arm. When you lift any truck with IFS you change the resting position of the A arm relative to the bump stops so in extreme cases there is no down travel left in the suspension giving a harsh ride and bad handling. A ball joint flip on the Isuzu is simply removing the ball joint on the upper A arm and remounting it under the arm. For a 2 inch lift this is all thats required. It repositions the A arm relative to the stops but also effectively lengthens the A arm allowing the wheel alignment to be set correctly. Fitting a spacer between the flipped ball joint and the arm furthers this effect. In NZ this is technically a certification nessecsary mod although you would be unlucky if your wof man picked it up.

No. On the Isuzu a ball joint flip makes no difference to the ride hight although on some other makes it does. The reason is that the torrsion bar attaches to the bottom A arm.
Only down side of a suspension lift is more stress on the CV joints so an occasional breakage can happen if your hard on things. Ive never broken one with a similar lift

o well i guess i'v found what i'v been looking for



that's a ball joint spacer right? so if we do a ball joint flip, where exactly do you remount the ball-joint? in a 2" lift what is recommended-ball-joint spacer or ball-joint flip?

do you have a picture of a remounted ball-joint? is it really necessary to do a ball-joint flip if i lift my rig 2"?

ok i already pictured it out after reading this one
www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/trooper/suspension_travel/Trooper_front_suspension.html

thanks

thanks! more clearer pictures than what the trooper link i posted although more or less the same in content, with the trooper link being more detailed and step by step (the archive doesn't even have instructions hehehehe ) but the pictures do explain a thousand word! ;D

if i lift 2" do i need to replace my shocks or just change the marking?

If you are replacing the rear shocks be sure they are not going to "bottom out" when the wheels are fully compressed. Either back up a sharp bank till you get full articulation, or use a forklift to lift the tire off the ground untill it hits the bump stop. It is worth having 25mm or so spare for safety.

Unlikely you will have to do anything to the shocks up front. At the rear if the shocks run out of travel at the bottom they limit travel If they run out at the top they will destroy themselves. My test covers the bottom of travel Mulovers the top. His suggestion is to back the car up a bank in such a way that one rear wheel is as high as you can get it and the othe 3 are as low. Then measure this shock and the distance to the bump stop. If you can then find the specs for this shock on the KYB website or remove the shock and fully compress it and measure again. As long as the compressed shock is shorter than the length of the shock measured on the bank minus the hight to the bump stop your ok