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Post by jjcarenthusiast on Apr 17, 2009 12:36:20 GMT 11
i understand that if i crank the torsion bars too much, it will result to a harsh ride. how do you a lift without sacrificing the ride? i heard about using a balljoint spacer, balljoint flip but i don't fully understand how this works. pardon my ignorance to these stuff. in which part is the spacer placed? between the ball-joint and control arm? pic? i can't imagine pls help me
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Post by geeves on Apr 17, 2009 14:22:45 GMT 11
Both bump stops work on the top A arm. When you lift any truck with IFS you change the resting position of the A arm relative to the bump stops so in extreme cases there is no down travel left in the suspension giving a harsh ride and bad handling. A ball joint flip on the Isuzu is simply removing the ball joint on the upper A arm and remounting it under the arm. For a 2 inch lift this is all thats required. It repositions the A arm relative to the stops but also effectively lengthens the A arm allowing the wheel alignment to be set correctly. Fitting a spacer between the flipped ball joint and the arm furthers this effect. In NZ this is technically a certification nessecsary mod although you would be unlucky if your wof man picked it up.
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Post by jjcarenthusiast on Apr 17, 2009 19:55:39 GMT 11
so from doing a ball-joint flip it will give an 2" effective lift even without touching the torsion bars? does this mod has any cons like decreased life of some parts? how about the ball-joint itself? does this shorten the life of the ball-joint or just the same as the stock position?
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Post by geeves on Apr 17, 2009 20:36:29 GMT 11
No. On the Isuzu a ball joint flip makes no difference to the ride hight although on some other makes it does. The reason is that the torrsion bar attaches to the bottom A arm. Only down side of a suspension lift is more stress on the CV joints so an occasional breakage can happen if your hard on things. Ive never broken one with a similar lift
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Post by jjcarenthusiast on Apr 17, 2009 20:50:59 GMT 11
hmm.. so what is the advantage of having the torsion bar mounted on the lower swing arm? do you have a diagram or picture about this ball-joint flip and spacer? i cant picture it out i still don't know some things
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Post by jjcarenthusiast on Apr 17, 2009 21:09:30 GMT 11
o well i guess i'v found what i'v been looking for that's a ball joint spacer right? so if we do a ball joint flip, where exactly do you remount the ball-joint? in a 2" lift what is recommended-ball-joint spacer or ball-joint flip?
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jer0
Isuzu Junior
Posts: 63
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Post by jer0 on Apr 17, 2009 21:31:52 GMT 11
When you do a ball joint flip you don't gain any height at all it just allows the top arm to move down more/bring your camber back. I have raised mine about 40mm and haven't done a ball joint flip, I just got a good wheel alignment after. You shouldn't need to get spacers for a 2" lift, just remount the ball joint and it won't cost anything.
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Post by jjcarenthusiast on Apr 18, 2009 0:13:26 GMT 11
do you have a picture of a remounted ball-joint? is it really necessary to do a ball-joint flip if i lift my rig 2"?
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Post by geeves on Apr 18, 2009 9:40:52 GMT 11
In a ball joint flip you simply remove the upper ball joint place it under the arm and rebolt it to the same holes same way up. For 2 inches forget about the spacer. You do need to undo the taper to the steering knuckle assembly to do this but it should take well under an hour for each side. (If you rush under an hour for both)
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Post by jjcarenthusiast on Apr 18, 2009 14:58:51 GMT 11
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Post by MuZila on Apr 18, 2009 15:03:25 GMT 11
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Post by jjcarenthusiast on Apr 18, 2009 16:57:05 GMT 11
thanks! more clearer pictures than what the trooper link i posted although more or less the same in content, with the trooper link being more detailed and step by step (the archive doesn't even have instructions hehehehe ) but the pictures do explain a thousand word! ;D
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Post by jjcarenthusiast on Apr 18, 2009 16:58:11 GMT 11
i'm thinking of doing ball-joint flip and have a shackle made from my trusty body-builder and crank the torsion bars. thanks guys!
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Post by jjcarenthusiast on Apr 19, 2009 0:47:38 GMT 11
if i lift 2" do i need to replace my shocks or just change the marking?
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Post by geeves on Apr 19, 2009 7:51:45 GMT 11
Front shocks are fine. They travel more than the suspension can. Rear depends on a few factors. Best idea is to remove the shock from the lower mount then jack the car up under the chassis rail till the wheel is off the ground. If the shock is longer than it needs to be to go back on the mount then it is ok. Another way of looking at this though is that your shocks are most probably the original X year old and X mileage. All the shock manufactures recommend replacing shocks every 40000km. This is a bit overkill but should be thought about. I replaced mine at 150000km and the difference in ride was substantial.
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Post by mulover on Apr 19, 2009 10:34:43 GMT 11
If you are replacing the rear shocks be sure they are not going to "bottom out" when the wheels are fully compressed. Either back up a sharp bank till you get full articulation, or use a forklift to lift the tire off the ground untill it hits the bump stop. It is worth having 25mm or so spare for safety.
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Post by jjcarenthusiast on Apr 19, 2009 21:32:15 GMT 11
geeves when we bought the unit it had busted stock shocks so we replaced it with KYB gas-a-just at the rear and excel-g at the front. they're brand new. it seems too new to change ;D mulover sorry my pickup is slow. what do you mean by "bottom out" and "back up a sharp bank till you get full articulation" ?
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Post by geeves on Apr 19, 2009 21:44:08 GMT 11
Unlikely you will have to do anything to the shocks up front. At the rear if the shocks run out of travel at the bottom they limit travel If they run out at the top they will destroy themselves. My test covers the bottom of travel Mulovers the top. His suggestion is to back the car up a bank in such a way that one rear wheel is as high as you can get it and the othe 3 are as low. Then measure this shock and the distance to the bump stop. If you can then find the specs for this shock on the KYB website or remove the shock and fully compress it and measure again. As long as the compressed shock is shorter than the length of the shock measured on the bank minus the hight to the bump stop your ok
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Post by jjcarenthusiast on Apr 19, 2009 22:33:32 GMT 11
ok now i understand thanks geeves so i will do a kind of articulation test with the back wheels after.
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