|
|
Post by muvova on Aug 2, 2008 22:08:11 GMT 11
Hi, my first 4b, first diesel, first turbo... .... first problem - well 1st problem that has made it cease to proceed.... heading along the freeway about 110kph, loud music... sudden loss of power.. turned down the music... diesel knock is louder.... rough idle, hardly enough power to move off again... small amount of white smoke whisping out the air cleaner and oil cap.... wait for the tow truck.... Found way too much oil in the air inlet tubes between airfilter and turbo.... then even more from the turbo to the manifold.. seems like oil seal on turbo inlet side.... finaly got the turbo off.. way too much lateral movement... so now thats sitting on the bench waiting to find someone to assess it on monday. Did a compression test at the glow plug ports (1,2,3 glows absolutly dripping with oil) 270, 280, 300, 280 lbs... So... what will i do tomorrow (sunday)? I dont know it's history , ive only had it barely a month... but from what i've read, i should take the opportunity to do the timing belt... anyone know a part number for a replacement belt? I was thinking about an intercooler... but... i want to get it back on the road asap too (but do the work myself as much as poss)... so maybe next time. So... any opinions on the oil going in the wrong way (inlet)? ...winding her over did not squirt any oil out the glow holes.. And, anything else i should think about while i'm this far? Check the injectors - how? injector pump? Oh, and any compatable fuel filter part numbers? Any engine manuals around? Cheers in advance for any tips  |
|
|
|
Post by elysian on Aug 2, 2008 22:44:50 GMT 11
Timing Belt (match tooth type on replacement) - Gates T966
Fuel Filter - Z304 RYCO. or FC-1001 Sakura
|
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Aug 3, 2008 9:25:49 GMT 11
Unfortuanatly I can save you the cost of the timing belt and maybe turbo. Correct compression should be 441psi. Sounds like time for a new motor. Hopefully you bought it from an understanding seller. Where are you?
|
|
|
|
Post by muvova on Aug 3, 2008 19:06:27 GMT 11
Dang... wish i'd read these b4 i got into it again... timing belt is off now, so i cant recheck compression.... my gauge only goes to 300, and it's a hand held one.. so i wasnt sure if it was me that could only hold 300.... another new gadget to buy...  and some! It was a private sale... and he 'seemed to' know less about diesel than me.... so no hope there... gonna be a cold week on the bike  I work in nth sydney... sleep in windsor, but weekend & workshop in maitland !!!? [Thats like working in wellington, sleeping in Stokes Valley and weekend & workshop in Palmie !!] So.. i wont even be able to do evenings on it.... Thanks for the tips and numbers.... any more welcomed toooo  |
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Aug 3, 2008 19:52:30 GMT 11
Could be the hand held guage. Not ideal for the job but compression testers for diesels cost an arm and leg.
Unfortuanatly the other symptoms still point the same way.
A diesel engine will run on oil and its not uncommon for a failed turbo seal to cause a motor that cant be stopped or even worse go into run away which can be very fatal for the engine (they rev harder and harder till they blow) Yours lost power
Fumes from the filler cap and even worse out of the air cleaner are the result of leaking rings. It can also be the source of the oil in the intake.
What mileage has it done and did you get it at a good price?
I'll email a copy of the engine manual to your hotmail
|
|
|
|
Post by muvova on Aug 3, 2008 21:55:29 GMT 11
yetch!
i'm hearing ya... might see if i can borrow one somewhere...
Now you say about oil run-aways i do remember reading that somewhere...
It has 179k on the clock... it seems fairly tidy, not bashed about underneath. When i did the oil filter two weeks ago it had japanese labels... and the fuel filter is the same... it was imported in '01.... could it go that long without them being changed??? Paid $6k... seemed consistent with some others id seen about at the time.. if.. but... unless... etc...
Got the manual .. thanks heaps.. something to read through the week :0
It came with 33"s, a couple of times in low low it's been stumped... crawling up a hill, get to an obsticle put some more gas.. and some.. more... to the floor and still not even spinning wheels... i had thought the low range was not low enough (still do) and the auto wasnt in shape... but perhaps it was the motor getting sadder? Backing off a few feet and having a run got it through... so... if the motor has to come out.... id be looking at what i can do for lower range(s) - a mate has a second t/c on his HiLux.... if i go further with that idea.. maybe another thread on transmission/transfer options.. bugger that i picked one thats all in one...
cheers
|
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Aug 4, 2008 8:09:14 GMT 11
You can get an extra low gear set from Calmini but I havent checked if it fits your box. You need to be a little careful with them as the US market used a lot of chevy engines and trans in there Isuzus.
Hilux transfer case is possible but a lot of work
second hand motor in NZ with garrentee is about 2k without they can be found a lot cheaper. Dont know what they are like in Aus though. They are common in a lot of isuzus and holdens so shouldnt be much different. Auto could be a little harder. If your thinking about major mods anyway how about comadoor v6
|
|
|
|
Post by elysian on Aug 4, 2008 19:10:27 GMT 11
The V6 option is not that hard.. meet up with a fellow MU owner yesterday that put in the 3.6 litre V6 from a VN Commodore .. heaps of room to spare and more grunt too..
IF you go the V6 route.. remember to get the tranny and black box / wiring loom / etc with the motor .. too many headaches otherwise..
|
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Aug 4, 2008 20:51:54 GMT 11
Make that worse. The ecotech has a antitheft device. It wont goe without the original key/ignition lock or a pc guru that can simulate it.
|
|
|
|
Post by muvova on Aug 5, 2008 0:15:39 GMT 11
Yeah.. i purposely chose diesel with a view to going biodiesel later on....
Now of course i'm afraid of what probs id get in a second hand engine
I found a NEW long motor on the net for $3300, and fully recond i think was similar.. $3600? Didnt spot any second hands yet. I'll be askin about for estimates on rings & bearings o/h.... I just dont have the time to try myself...
But i'm also open to more ideas.. if IF i'm going to put that much more $ into it.. then i might be happier with a 'special'
For a commodore tranny.. how does that go with marrying up the transfer case... mine is the 30-80LE (=AW340H yes?) means low/high is hydralic - another set of planetaries tacked into the end of the tranny.. then the chain drive for front drive...
As an idea of where i wanted to go with it.. i was about to order a lokka for the front.. and considering front diff drop... and now with most of the front off.... i can see those front body mounts asking for a lift (all round of course)... and the rear is already spring over axle...
cheers .....
|
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Aug 5, 2008 7:23:53 GMT 11
standard method for engine swaps in the isuzu is to use the trany that comes with the engine then fit a hilux transfer case to the back of that. Marks adapters make a kit for the comadoor conversion. You cant separarate the transfer case from the gearbox on isuzus.
That price for a new long engine is good. There are chinese copys around but they seem to be well made but you dont get ther chrome liners etc so they wont be doing the massive milages a well maintained true isuzu would of done but then again if you fitted a genuine isuzu engine and did everything right fuel would run out long before the engine does
|
|
|
|
Post by muvova on Aug 11, 2008 17:20:13 GMT 11
update... Yep.. i must be getting old(er)... too fa-king cold for the bike (2+ hours in the middle of the night)... i bought an Ef fairmont to get around in while i sort out the 'new' project. I made up an adaptor for the compression tester.. the dial only goes to 300, but i took it apart and it will move at least 200 past that... put it on again... still doesnt get over 300 anyways... so... next i will rip off the head and have a look.... see how bad things are there and further decide what is next... recon, replace, repower or whatever.. Higginbottoms want over 4.5k to redo my block.. but that is new everything. a good time (?) to do the other bits i was thinking about (eg front lokka & diff drop).. Damn.... i wanted an off road project... not an off-the-road project... |
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Aug 11, 2008 18:56:06 GMT 11
If you had bought a comadoor you could have had a complete doner car for the conversion.
When you get the head and sump off you should get an idea of how bad things are. The bores are chrome so might be ok If there is any lip at the top at all you need new liners which is not really a home mechanic job James white has a page on his website for a complete rebuild but he has vast engineering knowledge and access to a workshop to die for. New liners would mean full recon of second hand engine. If the liners are ok you might get away with rings but I worry about the knock as tired diesel engines go quite not noisy unless other bad things are happening. Have a quick look at the injectors in the head If they are damaged give up on this engine as the damage will be due to the pistons hitting them which is caused by severe wear in the bottom end probably because of bad maintenance. If this is ok remove the sump. I think the engine has to come out for this Any scoreing on the bearings is bad. A reconditioner should be able to tell you from the bearings what caused the engine to expire. I saw an engine a while ago out of a bighorn that had suddenly started running on 3 cylinders The piston had kissed the injector When I was shoen the bearings I picked up the one from that cylinder just from its colour. It was bright blue and a quick look at the outside showed why. It had been spinning in its housing. The driver of this car heard nothing before it died and hes a proffesional driver. That bighorn now runs a comadoor v6
The 4jb1 engine was common in jackeroos and rodeos Might it be worth finding a second hand engine or even complete car thats failed its roadworthy or crashed but still with a good engine
|
|
|
|
Post by muvova on Aug 12, 2008 13:45:50 GMT 11
yeah.. did think about that.. looked at a 2.  TF 4wd rodeo as well... and a couple of fronteras and others.... but then if i did that.. a) i'd play in the new toy instead of working on Mu... b) i'd have no wheels once i started the organ transplants.... So... now i can concentrate on the one project and decide what engine tranny as i go.. ( i thought i'd seen a thread in here somewhere about cheap and self made body lifts... cant find it now ... ) |
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Aug 12, 2008 18:50:24 GMT 11
The blocks retail around $40 ready made so why bother making your own. You still have to buy the longer bolts which is the bulk of the cost anyway.
|
|
and some!
TF 4wd rodeo as well... and a couple of fronteras and others.... but then if i did that.. a) i'd play in the new toy instead of working on Mu... b) i'd have no wheels once i started the organ transplants....