JaSiN
Isuzu Junior
96 Grey Mu + Plenty of Mods + Plenty more to come!
Posts: 139
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Post by JaSiN on Jan 31, 2008 0:44:59 GMT 11
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Post by geeves on Jan 31, 2008 6:22:59 GMT 11
Ive been thinking of something similar but instead of a pin through the 10mm theaded bar I was thinking of useing a wingnut ie bottom bushes are secured but the top nut is a normal nyloc possibly with a lock nut on top odf that but instead of the pin under the lower top bush use a wingnut. This could be effectivly tightened or loosened with the car on uneven ground where the pin can be hard to reinsert unless the car is completely level.
What are the Wof rules on swaybar disconects or is it anouther trip to the certifier?
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mu4meandyou
Isuzu Junior
Accept what you can't change and change what you can't accept
Posts: 55
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Post by mu4meandyou on Jan 31, 2008 15:27:33 GMT 11
I have just put these on my 91 MU. Job was made easier cause I got them from Muvit madness and were already set up. He even helped fit them :-) They work quite well. Can't help on whether a 96 is any different though or legality sorry.
The R pin works well and even if the ground is uneven you should be able to get one side in and then reposition the vehicle so the other wheel is a little higher. Mine went in quite easily on the weekend after the day's play.
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Post by James W on Jan 31, 2008 16:13:04 GMT 11
The advantage of the pin is that it is low tech and reliable. I actually find it easier to lift one wheel up on something, say a small rise, rock, curb, whatever and do that side... then the same for the other side... It is nearly impossible to find a prefectly flat area to get both sides at once... unless you have a loose fit. A wingnut would work well, but will rust or get stiff with mud etc over time. IF you grease or oil the thread it just make dust and mud stick.
I have for a long time been thinking about a MKII version, going in either of two directions. A mechanical over center lever to have positive lock/disconnect... or the blue ribbon switch from the cab version... which is only an idea at this point.
Re certification, I have been told by a testing station WOF guy, cert is not required as the setup of the vehicle is not altered (with pins in). However I strongly recommend getting your own advice.
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blowout
Isuzu Junior
My Truck is Still A Virgin... Cos It Isn't Screwed Yet.....!
Posts: 72
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Post by blowout on Jan 31, 2008 19:40:04 GMT 11
Just like Mu4meandu i have doen the same with Muvits help. All it takes is 2 x 6" M10 Bolts and 6 Nyloc nuts and an hour or 2 but adds alot more flex to the front end
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nig
Isuzu Junior
94 TD Rodeo
Posts: 123
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Post by nig on Feb 1, 2008 20:46:59 GMT 11
I can vouch for James W's disconnects - having made a set up about 3 years ago.
The only hassle I have with them is the R clips rubbing on the CV boots if they get pushed through to far, otherwise one of the best low-budget mods I have come across
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JaSiN
Isuzu Junior
96 Grey Mu + Plenty of Mods + Plenty more to come!
Posts: 139
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Post by JaSiN on Feb 18, 2008 20:31:18 GMT 11
after all that mt sway bars have a small link that joins the sway bar to the lower arm...
so now all i really need is a 10mm bold and a zip tie... until i work out a fast way of undoing a small ball joint.
any suggestions?
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Post by James W on Feb 18, 2008 22:27:03 GMT 11
The small link joining the sway bar to the lower 'A' arm is as from factory. This is what you will remove and extend. The quick disconnect with the pins in will effectivly give the same vehicle/sway bar set up as it is now. Although where the sway bar lands on the bolt in respect of height doesn't matter much. So long as it's even both sides on level ground. If the pins in location is high, then you are selling yourself short on free movement with pins out. Set the pins in height as low as you can, but not so as to make fitting the bolts nuts etc hard. A few trial fits may be required before marking and drilling the pin hole locations
There should not be any ball joint to undo? just the M8 factory short links/bolt to undo.
I went with a M10 as being longer more strength is a good idea. The holes in the sway bar ends should be even larger than M10 so not a problem. Let us know how you get on :-)
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JaSiN
Isuzu Junior
96 Grey Mu + Plenty of Mods + Plenty more to come!
Posts: 139
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Post by JaSiN on Feb 19, 2008 23:26:19 GMT 11
The small link joining the sway bar to the lower 'A' arm is as from factory. This is what you will remove and extend. The quick disconnect with the pins in will effectivly give the same vehicle/sway bar set up as it is now. Although where the sway bar lands on the bolt in respect of height doesn't matter much. So long as it's even both sides on level ground. If the pins in location is high, then you are selling yourself short on free movement with pins out. Set the pins in height as low as you can, but not so as to make fitting the bolts nuts etc hard. A few trial fits may be required before marking and drilling the pin hole locations There should not be any ball joint to undo? just the M8 factory short links/bolt to undo. I went with a M10 as being longer more strength is a good idea. The holes in the sway bar ends should be even larger than M10 so not a problem. Let us know how you get on :-) Im not sure what you mean, but its a 14mm bolt. there are 2 ball joints on the bar. both the angles are not right to fit that bolt setup. maybe you have an early Mu? and its different? what other options are there?  |
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Post by rodeored on Feb 20, 2008 9:18:21 GMT 11
i have the front swaybar disconnects from independent4x and i must say - they seem to do absolutely nothing. currently i have no front swaybar. and my truck handles awful in the isuzu IFS the shocks are still the limiting factor. the rear i have no experience with. these www.independent4x.com/item.jhtml?UCIDs=839915|1109486&PRID=1555187 |
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Post by geeves on Feb 20, 2008 10:35:50 GMT 11
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Post by geeves on Feb 20, 2008 15:24:45 GMT 11
One thing you could try is to just remove the bar with the 2 ball joints on one side and see how much difference it makes. You will then know if its worth makeing something from scratch. There will be enough travel in your set up to get a true answer on whether its worth while.
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Post by James W on Feb 20, 2008 15:38:10 GMT 11
Jasin, sorry yours are of differnent deisgn. The simple bolt pins disconnects won't work for you. Looks to me like the independent4x.com disconnects, actually completely disconnect and are left to flail around... yuk.. hard to tell from the photo though.
I recall this coming up sometime in the past and I drew a sketch and posted it here. But as i think Geeves is suggesting, I would cut the existing link and screw/weld a pipe or drilled rod on one half so they other half can telescope inside it. Drill a hole through the lot for a pin and bingo a sway bar disconnect. If you do it right and have enough length the ends can be retained and not left to flail around... I'll see if I can find that post and sketch
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Post by James W on Feb 20, 2008 15:41:30 GMT 11
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Post by geeves on Feb 20, 2008 19:57:31 GMT 11
Thats probably where my idea came from. A big word of warning on it though. The current linkage looks to be one forged piece. If you cut this it will never pass a WOF and no certifyer will pass it either. You are not allowed to cut or weld any forged or cast part. There is a way around this but it will cost the rods weight in gold.
A better way to use this basic design would be to find 2 suitable ball joints or maybe Johny joints one with a male thread and one female. Thread one into a reasonably heavy tube and the other onto a rod that is a sliding fit into the tube. Then drill through the combination for the fixed pin.
One thing that might be an issue with this design is how to stop the rod dislocating at full stretch.
Anouther design Ive seen on a Toyota site that might work involved mounting 2 eye bolts to the current mounts then making a rod with a U shape at each end with an solid pin to go through the eye bolts. Remove both pins and the bar comes out. In your settup one U bracket needs to be 90 deg to the other. Ill send a copy of the pic to your gmail account.
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Post by James W on Feb 20, 2008 20:52:42 GMT 11
Ok good point re forged or cast parts. But easy enough fixed with some replacement ball joints... say same as tie rod ends. Being already threaded.
Length I thought may not be a problem. Bear in mind with a telescoping design the max length could be close to twice the resting length... yes there are losses at each end.... so maybe taking a stab could be 1.8 resting length... and it's already quite long... and the IFS limited. Some measurements would quickly confirm this... or perhaps not pratical but a 3 stage telescopic link may help
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JaSiN
Isuzu Junior
96 Grey Mu + Plenty of Mods + Plenty more to come!
Posts: 139
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Post by JaSiN on Feb 20, 2008 23:25:12 GMT 11
They look good Geeves, i wonder if i could use thoes marine fittings? the stainless steel connector rods? i think they even have a thread attached.. so you could have some threaded bar with a locking nut.... Hmmm... i might hunt at the local and see what i come up with..... its either that or just drill a hole in the bolt and use and R clip there? since there is going to be a loose link in the whole system anyway? Here are the pics your sent... for all to see... (thanks again)   |
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Post by geeves on Feb 24, 2008 17:48:09 GMT 11
finally had a play with a sway bar disconnect. Similar to James design except that I used 160mm threaded rod and instead of a pin through the rod Imade a slotted sleeve out of 3mm wall steel pipe which slides onto the rod through the slot and is held in place by a R clip. I didnt like the pin through the bolt idea as it puts a lot of strain on a 2mm pin although I dont believe anyone has broken one. One other thing I dont understand from James pictures is that he seems to have twice the movement I got. Once everthing was fitted up I had to recut the sleeves down to 42mm. This is still ok as the bighorn swaybar mounts 1/3 of the way along the A arm so travel at the wheel is 126mm before the swaybar has to do any work.
In use though the result was magic. At a play day at Foxton Sand dunes I went everywhere a pair of V8 swb cruisers went and a couple of places they didnt One of them was useing his lockers.
Ill try and take some pictures and put them on here during the week
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Post by James W on Feb 25, 2008 16:10:52 GMT 11
I noticed it makes the ride not as rigid when off road. I imagine on road most bumps and humps are for both left and right wheels... but off road a rock under one wheel causes a jolt to both wheels with the sway bar in... with sway bar out the bump can be limited to one wheel... at least it's a little better than with swaybar in.
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