manual hub or cv?

[quack]

took the truck in the the shop today.

they seem to think that the problem is the hub?

the sound that it makes when its its in 4wd is a click click click noise like a cv??

could this be the hub? at the end of the day its only a $100 not to worryed what it is as long as it gets fixed.

[geeves]

If its clicking its more likely the hub than cv. If they are manual hubs then they probably only need a good clean and grease. If they are auto get the mechanic to convince the warrantee company they are unrepairable and that new or second hand manual ones can be found cheaper. It might still be a cv but 98% of clicking and no 4wd is the free wheel not engaging.
When a cv goes it will either work and click or jam makeing a huge noise esspecialy when you break it. If this happens you will be able to see the cracks in the joint from the outside

[quack]

they are manual hubs. they have told the company that it needs a new one and will be replacing it, but he was unsure if it could be cleaned and greesed.

im not sure if the wheel was springing or not but the clicking sounded exactly like what i know cv noises to be, but there was no slight clicking that got worse over time it was just loud clicking that came on as soon as it was put into 4wd this time.

are the hubs ment to be quite hard to turn (i.e the missis carnt turn them with her girly hands) when going from free to lock and visversa? they are the asin(sp?) ones.

i supsoe at the end of the day if they put the new hub on and its still doing it then theyll have to do the cv as well, im just sick of the dam mu always at the shop, its not been out long from the new clutch, mastercylinder and fixed firewall crack.

thanks for the help once again greeves most appresiated, you should write a book i'd buy it:)

[geeves]

8 times out of 10 they only need a clean and regrease but there are a couple of traps they need to be aware of.
2 causes of failure.
1 dry grease normaly only in cars with little history of being used in 4wd ie most jap imports. Clean and regrease and all will be good as new.
2 Water the arch nemesis of all things machanical. There are 3 places water might get in and since yours is a warrentee claim they should fix all of these and any other damage done at the same time if they find evidence of water in the free wheel hub. places are - the knob on top of the hub. There is a seal in here but dont know how to change. -The gaskets between the top, body, and axle assembly. Most people through away the gaskets and use a non hardening sealant like RTV. -Bearing at the back of the stub axle and its associated seal. These are Isuzu only bits but not very expensive. They need the stub axle to be removed as the seal and bearing are driven out the back of the stub axle.
If water has got into the free wheel hub your wheel bearings need to be repacked with grease as there will be water contamination of the grease the bearings might need replacing. I learnt this lesson the hard way by draining water out of the hub in November due to the free wheel doing as yours is but not checking the bearing. Drove from Wellington to Mosgiel for xmas and collapsed a wheel bearing Try being stuck in Mosgiel xmas eve with no tools and all the garages closed.
A lot of these things are just facts of life on any 4wd that is used and abused the way some of us treat them. Once the warrentee runs out you will find yourself learning to do a lot of simple jobs and slowly work up to a level that both yourself and your wallet are comfortable with.
The knob should be quite firm but most girly hands should be able to turn them but no promises of no broken nails

[quack]

damn thats gota suck! so how hard is it to re-pack the bearing while the hub is off? i.e could i ask the machanic to do it while hes there?

i got 3 years for the warrenty to run out lol...
i can do most small jobs myself, but might have to ask a few questions before i get going.

[geeves]

about 1 1/2 hours labour all up Add about 30 min to just doing the hub. If the bearing is shot they are about $80. use good grease. My last time used SKF grease at $25 a tube

[quack]

ok got the truck back today, not very happy.... think ill be looking for another machnic after this.

they replaced both front hubs, now they look so gay but the were about $400 i think. is this about what price they should cost?

took the truck away and thought 'oh we should make sure its fixed' and what do you know its still there clicking away, my money is on the cv stuffed.

the new hubs are so easy to change from free to lock, im not sure but could they be to easy? when you grab the bit to change them and pull it toward you and back in there is a bit of play. wouldnt water just poor in there when in water??

im guessing that when they fix the cv that they would take the hubs to do it, would it be stuid to put the old one back in, or would the new ones be 'better'?

i think they are called "era or cra" and are silver and gold with red writting.

[quack]

oh think they are called ORA.

[geeves]

If only seen ORA hubs once. They were on a 3.1 Bighorn He blew one to bits in a grass paddock. This was his second hub failure in 2 trips. That probably not the answer you wanted sorry.
Where are you?

[quack]

im in nelson, yeah i had a feeling they were crap, mite get him to put the old ones back on with new greese, this sound right?

[quack]

went back to machanic today, had a litsen and put it up on the hoist and yup its a cv (he must feel stupid). so hes gana fix it on tuesday.

now the question is should i keep my asain hubs or the ORA premium hubs? the standard ones have done almost 200K but still well gressed and problem free, the ORA ones are brand new.

the standard ones are a lot shorter as well, and much better looking as the ORA ones look all "high tec" gone wrong lol

wont cost any exra either way.

[mudgrip4]

Asin hubs can be a bit stiff to operate if not well greased but are v good hubs, and often standard fit to makes incl isuzu and toyota. People quite often swap from other makes of hub to these as some other types e.g. superwinch don't seem as durable, leak a bit more etc.

If your Asins are still in good nick, I wouldn't worry about mileage - give them a grease and put them back on. Then tell your mechanic you don't need his ORAs. Bit surprised your bloke didn't pick sooner the click-click was coming from the cvs. Easy enough to turn a few tight circles on the road, then jack up front, engage hub, spin wheel and watch/feel the cv rotation. You can pick a dud cv fairly quickly.

When a manual hub is faulty it can make a terrific racket, esp if grease has dried up and it is only half engaging on the splines - one hell of a grinding noise - but not a click-click.

Good luck, and try not to pay too much for the dud diagnosis. Mike

[geeves]

the asin ones can break after many years of severe neglect but they will out last virtualy every after market one given the same abuse. Mine are at 200k as well and theres hardly a mark on them except for rust scoreing. Only time theyve given trouble is when water has got in and not been dryed out quick enough. Even then a wash in kero followed by new grease is all they got. Only fully dismanted one once but that was because it got triped over while open in the drive way and bits went everywhere. Ive seen Cv joints,front half shafts and diffs broken without damaging the asin hub

[quack]

hahaha yeah i dont know what hes up to? i told them when it went in that it was the cv and it needed replacing... makes you think about these machanics ay.

all up it will only cost $100 as this was an insurance claim, its not my problem hes stuffed up with the hubs.

when re-fitting them can i just add greese or do i need to strip them clean them and then greese them.

also he said that the wheel bearings had a bit of play, the trucks had that funny sound like lound tyers on the road sound too, when the hubs are off this is just a matter of adjusting the hub nut ay?

oh and what type of greese? just that green marine stuff?

thanks for your help!!

[geeves]

If the bearings are noisey Replace them! Hubs should be cleaned and regreased Silly not to clean them. Grease must be suitable for wheel bearings as they are high load and high temp. Currently useing SKF LGWA 2/0.4 which is a white grease but there are many others that are ok eg VMX which is blue.
How did you get mechanical insurance on a 200000km car?