Andy's Custom Turbo Install.

[dasnoboarder]

Hmmm yea...

I think I'm going to go to pit stop and get a 2.5" dump pipe made up asap. That should fix the leak (last stud is too short and doesnt thread into the turbo).

I couldn't get the two 14mm bolts undone that join the dump pipe to the start of the exhaust when it was in the car, so just undid the next set of bolts on the exhuast (as you can see from the picture). So I havn't been close to this butterfly.

[turnturn]

I would tend to be thinking the same as Wizbru.
I suspect that you are short of cc's and revs to turn such a large increase in the exhaust side of things. I would have thought that any gains would come from small compressor side increases. Surely Mr Isuzu wouldn't have got it too far wrong.
I'm no turbo expert though.

[adam]

But even if it takes 3000rpm of exhaust gas to get the turbo spooling you should still hit 10-15psi and it should hit hard...

That's what I would think anyway.

It shouldn't not spool.

[dasnoboarder]

I disconnected the wastegate line. Tried for max boost, still only got 6 psi.

I'm going to only drive it to school and back untill I get the dump pipe done and get rid of that pesky butterfly and exhaust leak.

Cheers.

[Jimmu]

I guess the things I would check in this order are:

Wastegate actuator function
Bearings on Turbo (Just spin the blades by hand and feel for play)
I would also take off the outlet off the compressor side of the turbo and get someone to rev the thing up and watch what it is doing.

These engine produce a fair whack of exhaust so I would tend to think it should be boosting up even with the increased size, just later in the rev range and as was said earlier hard.

Come to think of it this sounds remarkably like an exhaust blockage...

Jimmy

[dasnoboarder]

The wastegate isn't causing the low boost level as I disconnected it and still the same result

Theres no play in the bearings...

I'm pretty certain it is this butterfly causing an exhaust blockage in the dump pipe... We shall find out as soon as I can get the dump pipe done.

Thanks for your input.

Does anyone have a rough figure of what a 2.5" dump pipe (not complete exhaust, am going to do the body lift before the new exhaust is routed) should cost?

Probably going to go to Pit Stop Glenfield for it.

[superturbocompound]

the characteristic of a turbine housing is that altough you maybe producing boost ,the speed that it spools up are different,it can never acelerate the same way a smaller housing does,so the bigger you have the housing the longer it takes to build,my first hand experience is toying around with the pitch of a VATN turbo,further more if you do install a smaller turbine housing and running bigger compressor wheel there will still be a little lag compared to the original and what can happen is that the boost produce will be closer to the surge line,not good ,may cause your turbo shaft to break,basically changing the turbo is done if you want to change the power band or increase of boost.if you want more grunt then a turbo of the same size but of a newer model or of a higher end type.like those from 2 litre sports cars,a good example is that mitsubishi evo 6.5 tommy makinen edition are running titanium turbo shafts,things like that,subaru STI would be a good direction to look,they are running ihi turbo aren't they?

[dasnoboarder]

Yes the Subaru's are, like VF18's and 24's etc. I was looking into them.

I don't think they have the same turbo flange pattern as the Isuzu's. Also, they are very expensive as they are ball bearing turbo's.

My VI87 kicked in very slowly, had full boost by around 2000rpm, but was the difference was hardly noticeable, not like "and here comes the turbo... bam!" and you feel it pull... It then stopped pulling above 3000... Just didn't seem right to be called a "turbo" to me. So I'm experimenting :-) .

If this 20-R housing doesn't work, I'm sure a 15-R will. Just like the big bore exhausts, I believe it will provide less restriction, allowing the engine to push more gasses through the turbine, although it will take longer to spool, it will give better performance when it does.

[mudgrip4]

I have my swb 2.8 bighorn tuned to 155hp and it pulls quite strongly. The turbo now kicks in well at 1500rpm rather than 2000 as in the past.

Main improvements to power range and torque curve came from advancing fuel pump timing, which allowed it to pull harder esp in upper range from 3000-3500rpm, and the 2.5 bigbore ex turbo which when combined with snorkel and K&N allowed the turbo to kick in hard from 1500rpm - 500 revs earlier than standard. Fuel is advanced quite a bit too and makes a big difference. Have never touched the turbo but suspect it is now running to about 12-14lbs - as with geeves above.

However even at a dynoed 155hp and about 340nm torque, its still a near two ton vehicle with gear and one or two people in it - and the acceleration and turbo kick will not rip your arms out. Not a matter of g forces at this weight - just stronger grunt, earlier.

Hope you get your problem sorted, but don't expect it to throw you back in the seat even if you do. And if you get frustrated you could always buy mine - should be on the market in couple of weeks...!!

Mike.

[dasnoboarder]

I've made a start with the K&N too.

I want to advance the timing, will be doing a full 2.5" exhaust incl dump pipe obviously, intercooler, and fuel and boost . With this turbo, hopefully will get the power kick too.

My standard turbo's wasteate opened at 10.5psi.

Will be great if it all works out

[Jimmu]

If you mean your mention of disconnecting the line to the actuator that is not what I meant.

I am referring to checking that the actuator is actually opening and closing the wastegate.

Midgrip: 155Hp on the Dyno? That is an absolute shitload of power at the wheels! I would love to see the dyno sheet for that. Can you post it?

Jimmy

[dasnoboarder]

Everything seemed to work ok when it wasn't in the car, wastegate spring held it closed.

By opening by hand, it seems ok, takes a bit of effort to open it, and the spring closes it pretty tight.

[mudgrip4]

Hi Jimmu - measure at the rear wheels for my bighorn was 115.7hp which according to dynotune co is 75% of grunt at flywheel. Said they find a loss of between 25 to 30%, depending on model/transmission type etc, by the time your flywheel hp has gone through the 4x4 drivetrain to be measured at rear wheels. His dyno measurements accurate to within 1kw of Jap specs for motors he tests. This bloke does race car tuning - and oddly enough quite alot of 4wds!!

So at 75% of total, 115.7 at rear wheel equates to 154.3hp at flywheel, but since then added K&N which gave a small but definite extra bit of oomph - - I'd say about 4-6hp. So motor may actually be 160hp, but has been in this state of tune for about 100,000ks now so probably dropped a bit.

Interesting that the 4jb1T can take this level of tuning and continue to run reliably for yonks. Bloke also said they find this motor an easy one to tune, showing bigger hp improvements than many others. A sturdy unit. Said the motor they can get most hp out of after tuning is the Safari turbo - 4.2 litres is a lot of cubes to play with.

Didn't tune it for onroad racing... but as you do when on club outings.... have discovered it will outperform a mate's safari turbo, 3.0 prado, 3.0 surf and 3.4T toyotas - after about 60kph or so when it gets rolling. Extra hp and 32"s allow it to pull hard from about 50 to 130ks - if of course that was legal - and especially with hillclimbs.

However its still an older motor and would be no match for the new generation diesels of the last 5-6 years - at least onroad. Wonder if they will prove as longlasting?

Sorry can't print dyno specs - my comp skills not that flash yet.

Mike.

[Jimmu]

Thats still alot of HP. I only have 100 at the wheels and I am running 16PSI and have run out of mods to do.

I have had mine to 155 on 33's (which after speedo correction is 165) on a private road of course...

Jimmy

[dasnoboarder]

jimmy said:

Thats still alot of HP. I only have 100 at the wheels and I am running 16PSI and have run out of mods to do.

Jimmy

It's time for LPG injection or nitrous

[mudgrip4]

Have you had yr pump timing advanced Jimmu - this done in conjunction with tweaking up fuel delivery gave biggest hp increase - a good 25hp I'd guess. Mine runs on 32 muds and, speaking very hypothetically, will do 162kph in optimum cold clear winter conditions...also on private road of course.. so yr 33s are geared just a tad higher. Far more speed than needed as they are too heavy to stop in emergency or handle well, at anything over about 120ks. Esp with muds.

[geeves]

Best Safari Ive heard of had 280+kw but it was running 20psi and lpg injection. It was used for winch challenge events and also off road racing which was its eventual demise. It rolled and caught fire and burnt to the ground. I believe 100000 had been invested in that truck. His new truck has a blown lexus v8.
An option worth looking at is to use a dump pipe off a 3.1. This is a better shape than the one on a 2.8 so will breath better but you also have to use the oil cooler and filter houseing off the 3.1. A freind did this on his 2.8 Mu along with a turbo from a 3.1 and straight pipe (one coby) exiting in front of the right rear wheel and was getting 26psi Sounded good and went very well

[dasnoboarder]

For the 280kw safari... Holy crap! Now that would be a fun truck to drive...

I think change the oil cooler and filter housing is a bit too much work.

I'd rather go into PitStop and see what they say about the custom dump pipe first. :-) Thanks for the ideas though.

[geeves]

Remember that was a competition truck built for a purpose and a huge amount of money invested. I would love to build something like that could never allocate anything like that amount of money

[Jimmu]

Yeah mate the pump timing has been advanced. My truck was tuned by a race truck tuner. He said his dyno was conservative so it could have more at the wheels that 100. To be honest it hauls arse so I dont really need any more power.

I have a GU patrol sitting at my place waiting for a Twin Turbo VH45 to go in. I know I can get about 600 at the wheels with that setup but will only dial it up for 400 to keep it reliable.

Should be enough go to spin 36's ok

Jimmy