4JB1-T Reving its guts out......

[varnz]

I am just about finished putting this engine into my bighorn and have just tried to test run it... Only to find that once I got it Running it ran uncontrollably even after I tuirned the ignition off. I understand that they can run on engine oil if there is a way that the oil can get into it.

Would oil on the inside of the inlet manifold be enough to cause this?

Would enough oil be able to through worn valve bushes/seals to cause this, or any other ideas?


I have not yet ,connected the intercooler so I was able to sufficate the enigine with a peice of plywood over the inlet.

Thanks Paul

[oscarg]

..Sounds strange, if it were some how running on pure oil it would surely be smoking like a banshee? Have had this happen briefly with solvents (parts cleaner, loctite primer, etc) in manifolds and pipes... but clears up almost instantly.

Loosen the injector pipe unions on all four injectors and see if it will fire at all..... If it won't than you'll know it's a problem with the pump, and not the donk!

[James W]

A random thought.... oil from the turbo, bad seals or otherwsise getting into the inlet manifold?

[varnz]

Smokes white, but not to bad, I thought that it might have been some solvent that I had used on the engine, but it seems to keep on going. I dont want to blow the engine.

The turbo isnt connected at the mo, so it cannt be oil from that. The big question is how much oil does it need to do this?

[oscarg]

If it were happening due to a build up of something in the manifold it should have cleared quickly....how long did it run?

Try cracking the injectors and have some one ready to snuff the engine if required???

other than that I'm stumped!

[varnz]

Thanks, Running as long as it takes to get out of the car and round the front to snuff the engine, even then with a little air getting in probably ran for about a couple of minutes..
Will try cracking the injectors. Than ks

[Harry]

Did you notice what the revs were when you tried to switch it off?Was it past the redline?If it was burning oil it would have been way past, but fuel should still be goverened unless there's a problem in the injector pump.The revs could be a jammed throttle,even 4250 rpm sounds bad on an unloaded engine,but that doesn't explain why you couldn't turn it off.What is the oil level like?The motor would have been stone cold and the rings would have been relatively loose in the bores.If the sump was over full the crank may have thrown oil up past the rings.Keep us informed, this sounds like a hairy one.
Harry.

[geeves]

does sound like a bad engine. Whats blow by like. Rather than cracking the injectors which will make a mess disconect the fuel lines to the pump.

[roscoe46956]

Wouldnt hurt to check the following: Disconnect the wire to the injector pump shut off solenoid, turn the key on and touch the wire back on to the solenoid, You should hear a click if the solenoid is working.

Make sure the throttle is in the idle position on the pump and ask someone to depress the pedal a few times to make sure the pump throttle arm is moving freely and returning completely to the idle position.

If it was burning oil on its own then there would be a huge cloud of blue smoke out the back and the end of the exhaust pipe would prob have oil residue inside it.

If it revved up quickly and smoothly then it sounds like diesel as in throttle jammed open or a fault in the govenor mechanism giving it max fuel.

Cheers
roscoe

[varnz]

Just a thought that if it was the throttle jammed open then surely after I turn the ignition off the motor would stop on its own?

Also before the motor was fitted I just found out the it was on its side for about a 1/2hr with oil in the crank... could the oil have got into the bore then and now I need to clean it out some how?

[roscoe46956]

If there was enough oil up in the combustion chambers to cause the over run when you attempted to start it , the starter would have probably stalled due the much higher than normall compression pressure and if it did start , it would have knocked like hell for the same reason along with heaps of smoke.

I mentioned the shut off solenoid as well as a possible pump prob in the last post just to eliminate possible faults .

Engines that have been inactive for a long period, especially in a damp environment can suffer from codensation induced rust on internal componants like governor linkages etc

To get rid of possible oil etc from a Combustion chamber, simply remove the glow plugs or injectors and crank the engine over on the starter, place a rag or something over the holes to catch anything as, trust me, any liquid will get fired out at a great rate.

I managed to splatter the whole side of a brand new truck curtain sider with oil and gunk one day from a V8 cummins engine which was about 30 metres away doing the above thing.

Cheers
Roscoe

[geeves]

Oil down the sides of the piston could run a diesel engine for some time. You will get some out by the above method but there could still be enough left to be a problem. Your lucky it didnt hydrolic as the combustion chamber is only 1 table spoon in size. Try limiting the revs by putting a load on the engine ie drive round the block a few times. If it hasnt started to behave in 30 min or so ask for your money back

[varnz]

Ok I tried the solenoid and that doesnt make any noise when I reconnect the wire with the ignition turned on. is it suppost to?

What does the solenoid do? when power is on? ie if it remains open the fuel just flows uncontrolleably? that could be what is the problem... there wasnt alot of smoke ( ie thick white smoke) that i have seen when a 3.0 isuzu had o ring seals on the injector go, so maybe not that much of a problem with oil. So what should happen to the solenoid?

I will try and see what happens with removing the glow plugs tomorrow.

[roscoe46956]

I only mentioned the solenoid because of the engine not stopping when the key was turned off, thats the only reason. The solenoid simply shuts off the fuel supply to the injector pump.

A faulty solenoid will not cause over running , if it fails to work at all then the engine wont start or if it sticks on then the engine wont stop, nothing more. sorry if I have confused you with this.

When you had the over running, was the engine running smoothly?

Ive had engines over running on oil and they ran like a sack of the proverbial because there is no way that each cylinder will be getting the exact same amount oil to have smooth running.

You mentioned white smoke which kinda rules out oil anyway, white smoke means unburnt fuel and im wondering if there is flooding of the combustion chambers of fuel from broken valve springs in one or more of the injectors or tips have broken off but again , you would normally get rough running and knocking from this.

You can try turning the engine over by hand through each of the 4 compression cycles, each cycle should provide equal resistance, if one is much harder to get through than the others then that can mean a prob with that cylinder like liquid in the combustion chamber.

Removing the glow plugs and turning it over will certainly tell you if any of the cylinders have anything in them and it will tell you which one obviosly.

If this dousnt show anything you can loosen off 2 of the injector pipes and start it, it should run on 2 pots and once its running you can alternatly tighten and loosen all the pipes to isolate each cylnder to see what the results are , the revs drop should be the same for all cylinders and if one does have a fuel issue causing the smoke then it should clear once that cylinder is isolated from its fuel supply.

The reason I said to start on 2 is that if it still decides to take off then it will be slower and much easier to control.

Hope this is of some help

Roscoe

[varnz]

Thanks Roscoe. I spoke to a deisel mechanic today and he explained the same thing to me. It runs smoothly so I think that maybe there is something inside the pump that is causing the throttle to be jamme4d open, like you suggested. engine runs smoothjly and there is a great chance that the solenoid valve doesnt work..... Did I mention that the engine had been in salt water before I got it. Apparently the engine had been cleaned out( internals are all good I have checked) but I think that maybe there didint do anything to the pump... So I am going to pull it out and get it checked out. Hopefull its nothing to serious, or else I may have to hit trade me for a replacement....
Thanks for your help.

[jjcymru]

can you not use the pump on your original engine and swap them over?

[varnz]

Na it was a 2.2 ltr one in before...

[roscoe46956]

Just thinking of the salt water thing, If the cooling system has had salt water through it then im concerned about the coolant side of the liners.

Make sure mate that you have at least 30% antifreeze in the coolant mix, I would be tempted to go as high as 50% just to inhibit any further corrosion from any salt deposits that may be remaining in there.

In modern diesels, Antifreeze is far more important for its corrosion inhibiting qualities than it is for actual freeze protection.

The salt water would not have done the thermostat any favours so a new one regardless would be a good idea.

Good luck with it mate.

Cheers
Roscoe

[varnz]

Yeap the thermostat was stuffed, but it looks like they didnt pget any salt water into the cooling system. when I stripped the water pump etc off there was the usual signs that they hadnt had anitfreeze in there but no salt water corrosion. But thanks for the advice I will run with the higher 50% level in just to be safe I think.

[adam]

random thought - check that the hand throttle isnt stuck on ?