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Post by bullfrog80 on Jan 17, 2005 23:56:32 GMT 11
took the beast out for a bash on the weekend. Whenever i drive her now it idles really rough. anyone have any ideas what this could be ? I did just have my alternator and timing belts done - dont know if this may be part of the prob or not.
matt
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Post by Harry on Jan 20, 2005 21:17:07 GMT 11
If it's been playing up since the work was done,take it back.Either they've left a vacuum hose off somewhere or the timing is out.
Good luck,Harry.
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Post by draganlada on Apr 16, 2005 22:18:40 GMT 11
Last weekend,after driving it at constant speed of 130 km/h for 30 km my 2.8 mu idles very rough. Idling speed used to be just over 750 rpm,but now is betveen 500 and 750 rpm. When I shift the gears up at 3000 rpm as soon as I depress clutch pedal revs go up by 2-300 revs and then fall down as normaly they should. I think I fill slight los in power and fuel economy since than. Recently I poured some Lucas fuel additive to the fuel tank( last 3 tank refuelings),maybe it can be couse of those simptoms. Anye oppinions  p.s.For the anzac day long weekend have to go on 2000km long trip but not confident in my Mu anymore Dragan |
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Post by geeves on Apr 17, 2005 18:19:26 GMT 11
Might be the additive but unlikly unless its a bad batch. You dont need addittive every tankfull. I add a measure of brand unknown additive to mine every 6 months if I remember. I still have original injectors at 177000k and apart from a little smoke at idle it goes well.
First check would be air filter second fuel filter hopfully this fixes it.
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Post by draganlada on Apr 17, 2005 22:42:11 GMT 11
Today things went very bad. Idling became so rough that revs needle went up and down betveen 250 and 1200 revs vith strange noise from the engine and after I turned ignition off engine kept runing at very low revs until I pressed acelerator pedal and it shuted it off. As geeves sugested I tried to run it with open air filter box but it din't change anything and tomorrow I'm going to change fuel filter but I'w lost houpe that it will help. I'll have to faund diesel mechanic but don't know any in Fairfield/Liverpool area.  |
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Post by geeves on Apr 18, 2005 10:57:29 GMT 11
Diesel engine running after switching off = very bad.
The key shuts the fuel supply so the engine must be running on somthing else ie oil. Whats blow by like ie take fuel filler cap off and look for smoke Also get a compresion check done. Is it smoking.What milage has it done?
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Post by geeves on Apr 18, 2005 18:30:26 GMT 11
The strange noise wasnt a squelchy noise was it?
I heard this noise once in a 2.8 hilux and that motor was doing its best to blow all its water out of the radiator cap . Cost of new head $4000. look on owners face when he saw us stop not long after he saw lots of steam priceless. (he had forgoten his cellphone and thought we were ahead of him)
good luck with whatevers wrong Hope its not too bad You might have to take the Lada for the long trip
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Post by morpheus on Apr 18, 2005 20:29:42 GMT 11
isnt that a symptom of dodgy injector orings, deisel in teh oil causes compression ignition so the engine wont turn off and makes the engine over speed at times ??
If you managed to download the pdf manuals there is a wealth of information in there, search under "dieseling"
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Post by draganlada on Apr 18, 2005 23:36:10 GMT 11
Today I have changed diesel filter and it was surprisenly clean (my mate told me his filter on toyota van after first 20000 km was full of algy).New filter didn't change a thing and my mu is not driveable anymore (lucky I have my trusty lada to drive me around). Acordingly to the odometer mu has traveled 126000km (x3 more likely),doesn't burn anye oil or coolant,doesn't smoke (except after longer idling  ). Tomorrow going to take day off of the work to find some good diesel mechanic. Thanx for replies guys! Dragan |
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Post by geeves on Apr 19, 2005 19:42:05 GMT 11
good luck at the mechanic. I would be doing a compresion test first then looking at injectors and pump. Hopfully its not to expensive.
The oring issue only affects the new 3.0 engine as the injectors on the 2.8 and 3.1 do not have contact with the oil.
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Post by Roscoe on Apr 19, 2005 19:55:01 GMT 11
Gday Dragonlada, I presume its a diesel.
If its over running then the engine is getting a combustible fuel from somewhere. I can only think that engine oil is getting in somehow but It would be smoking quite bad if it was. One thing you can try is to remove all the glow plugs, (or the injectors) place a clean rag over each hole and wind it over, this will show if any oil is present in the combustion chambers. Best to get someone to hold the rag over the holes.
You would probably hear some loud knocking if any oil was present during start up anyway.
If its a rotary pump then oil may be getting in to the diesel via the shaft seal from the timing cover but again, you should notice excesive smoke.
Try disconnecting the crankcase breather tube from the air intake and running the engine, could be picking up excessive oil vapour from the motor, either because of high crankcase pressure or oil level way to high.
If by chance the level is very high then loosen the sump plug off and check for water.
One more thing and it may be worth a try, try turning the motor over by hand, with, and without the clutch
engaged, or even on the starter to see if there is a noticable differance in turning resistance.. Just thinking about a stuffed input bearing on the gearbox which could transmit noise back to the motor
Anything to add geeves?
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Post by draganlada on Apr 19, 2005 22:50:36 GMT 11
This afternoon I left Mu at the diesel mechanic workshop.By the time I got there idling became stable and no knocking or strange noises from the engine.After I explained previous symptoms,mechanic said he will first do the compresion test,valve tapets adjusting and injectors reconditioning (which should be done every 100000km) and he also noticed diesel pump body is touching to inlet manifold body which means somebody played with pump timing so he will check that too.For the last he left injection pump rebuilding which is most expensive ($600-800) and will be done only if needed and I agree. He also thinks that bad (dirty) fuel created my problems. I should pick up the truck on thursday and I'll let you know what hapens(I'll be probably lighter for 1 grand +).  Dragan |
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Post by geeves on Apr 20, 2005 14:37:35 GMT 11
Loose injector pump??? Ive seen similar things many times with distributers on petrol engines. Result exactly what your getting. The bill might not be as bad as you expect
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Post by draganlada on Apr 20, 2005 22:12:58 GMT 11
today mechanic rang me up to tell me bad news;engine compresion is low at dty test and bit higher at wet test (I don't know how low,will see tomorrow and talk to him in person) so he tinks no point to rebuild injectors,and diesel pump timing was way out (to advanced),valve tapets were loose and he'll adjust all that and I'll have to decide what I want to do with the engine. Mechanic allso told me engine oil level was low so he needed 2 litars of oil to top it up(last week I checked and it was at max level at cold engine) must be I lost it during this week since engine started to play up. Geeves ones again thanx for good wishes but it looks like this will end up with biiiig bucks  Dragan |
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Post by geeves on Apr 21, 2005 9:34:03 GMT 11
depending how bad the compresion is it might run ok once the other things are fixed but it would be worth fitting a catch can to reduce oil consumtion. all this is is a tin about 1 litre in size with a inlet and outlet pipe for cranckcase fumes and a drain hole that runs oil back into the dipstick tube. 90% of your oil consumption will be via blow by.
If its real bad then you might get away with rings and bearings but you dont know untill you lift the head. These engines have crome bores so bore wear is not normaly a problem.
Worst case buy a Commadoor v6 engine and auto and mate this to a Hilux transfer case ans small driveshaft mods. These go well in Mus and Bighorns
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Post by draganlada on Apr 23, 2005 17:43:04 GMT 11
I picked up my mu and now I know it's stuffed up.
Compresion on all 4 cilinders is around 200 and 230 ( normaly should be around 450 mark),and as roscoe pointed I have oil in combustion chamber which couses engine overruning and black smoke,very bad fuel economy and biiig loss of power.
Strange thing is how it hapened atones in couple of days.Since I bought the truck I've done 10000 km but never tested compresion before couse it was runing ok with plenty of power,excelent fuel economy and not burning oil atall so I asume adding lucas diesel additive cleaned up carbon off pistons rings and/or valve sils wich coused engine oil pouring into combustion chamber.
Now I have two options;
1 recondition of my engine ( 4-6000 AUD)
2 second hand engine (3500 AUD)
Geeves how much will cost to do rings and berings only?
Definitly I'll never go for petrol engine conversion( if my mu was petrol I'll never buy it).
I don't think oil catch can will fix my problem.
Dragan
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Post by geeves on Apr 24, 2005 12:30:01 GMT 11
You wont know untill you lift the head if rings bearings will work best talk to your local reconditioner They will be able to quote prices. Ive never had to do mine so dont know. It might even be that combustion deposits loosened by the additive have jammed the rings but I dont know how to clear this if it has happened. Make sure you can get a second hand engine before lifting the head because thats the point of no return.
good luck
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