timing pump to engine confusion

[goonie]

hi guys

i have put a 4jb1-t crate motor into my 91 MU. all good but lack of info is holding me back. i have 4 markings on my crank pulley, one on the tooth section of the injector pump and one on the centre/cap section of the injector pump. can anyone point me in the right direction for correct timing. any help is appreciated as trial and error is gonna cost me whats left of my right leg.

btw my motor is now gear driven fuel pump, changed from belt driven on old one.

[goonie]

help is needed if anyone knows about this. its the only thing making me wary of starting the mu up. i know it will run at current stage, but after $5000 bananas i wanna do it right the first time.

thanks in advance guys

[geeves]

There should be a 10mm bolt hole in the block behind each pulley and a hole that matches up in each pulley. These are the timing marks. Put a bolt in each hole to lock the pulleys then fit the belt.
Turn the motor over by hand to check

[goonie]

thanks geeves
is it the same for the geardriven motor? theres no timing belt and my timing case is alloy, there is an inspection point though, that i used to see the pump marking. i guessed that im timing top dead centre to my pump's solid marking. i got the pump overhauled so i dont trust the liquid paper marking on it.

if there are bolt holes in the belt driven motor it must be similar on my motor.

thanks heaps for the tip i got something to look for now. if you know about the gear driven setup im all ears as well

cheers

[geeves]

I dont know for sure but would of expected cast markings on the gears to line up

[nig]

The Rodeo has a gear-drive 4JB1-T. According to my workshop manual, line the crank up with its TDC mark, and line the dot on the pump gear up with the point of the arrowhead in the timing winndow near the top of the timing cover.

[geeves]

If you have an email address that will take a 8meg email Ill send you a pdf version of the engine manual complete with pictures.
Nig is spot on but a picture always makes it easier
send me a pm or email if you want a copy sent to you (not your hotmail as it wont take a file this size)
alan

[James W]

"According to my workshop manual, line the crank up with its TDC mark"

Don't forget on the compression stroke...or it could get real expensive

[goonie]

your a gem boys

can you try to send the pdf to [e-mail] (remove .antispam) please geeves, although i think you guys are on the money.

you are right nig the motor im pretty sure is rodeo. not too bad the motor we got was a 2000 model. same power though, shame. you guys have gee'd me up for a big saturday on the tools. shame my old mate is on the tools every other day too haha he's rarin' to go though.

this is great thank you all. ive replaced just about every moving part anywhere near the friggin engine and encountered every poblem under the sun. i'll have to pull my finger out and put in to help out anyone who needs it.

thanks again ill post tomorrow to let you know

[geeves]

Have sent to above e-mail
Alan

[goonie]

thanks for the manual alan, its true seeing a picture is worth a thousand words

im only working on the beast after hours and weekend been to busy to reply a thanks.

btw the engine still has a problem and wont run. i have feeling that when i sent the fuel pump for reco i didnt specify that it was a turbo diesel. it seems like the pump isnt supplying enough pressure to crack the injectors. the motor starts on "start ya bastard" spray but wont continue. i only used the spray to eliminate the glow plugs as suspects.

i have bled the pump of air and before nipping up injector lines gave it a crank and fuel was ok in the lines. all signs are pointing to either timing still, or a fault in elec or mech side of pump.
pump timing is correct as you said and by the manual but i assume that the reco man fit the driven gear on the pump the right way.

the saga continues....

thanks again

[James W]

goonie, i've added an anti spam filter to yr e-mail address above. The e-mail address I use only here is getting 10-15 spam messages a day now. Spammers trawl the web and this site for e-mail addresses.

Have you cracked the the injector lines while cranking to check fuel flow up to the injectors? Warning stand back. Air can give lots of trouble in a diesel fuel system, even when you think you have got it all... don't just rely on once for a full blead if you are havign this trouble, do the fuel filter blead again, and the injector pump blead again.

[goonie]

thanks james, youre good with computers and cars.
im beginning to wonder wether im any good at either.

i did crack the injector lines and fuel was in lines, but true it may need further bleed there is a light diesel smell when i crank so injectors must be firing i guess. if only diesel development was at todays pace in 91' we'd all have electronic injection.

ill keep up the fight cheers

[James W]

Was there fuel in the lines or was there fuel flow inthe lines when cranking? Again stand back the pressure is high and will pentrate skin.

You are confident of the timming right?
Has the injector pump been roated on it's mount... which is independant from the timming belt/gears/chain.

jamesw.kicks-ass.net/4wd/TF4JE-WE-9791_Page216-217.pdf

Don't worry there is not much to these engines and you will get it going.

Anyone from Sydney that can offer some local help?

[roscoe46956]

Gday, Firstly, if the engine runs on ether then the valve timing is ok.

Dont laugh at this but I have seen it happen, make sure that the pipes from the pump to the injectors are in the right place, ie, that the pipe for #1 cyl is plumbed to the correct outlet on the pump. Compare this with another engine to make double sure.

Another check you can do to check on pump timing is to remove the rocker cover, remove #1 injector and connect it back on to its supply pipe, turn the motor over on the starter until it bleeds and is squirting, when it is, watch the valve rockers for #4 cyl, just as they are "on the rock" ie, both moving at the same time as the ex closes and the inlet opens, (slight overlap) right at this point, #1 injector should squirt.

This will at least tell you that the pump is timed to the correct cylinder and on the correct stroke.

Cheers
Roscoe

[Harry]

This may sound dumb but the solenoid plugs on the back of the pump can be plugged together instead of the wiring loom.Hard to see clearly amongst the rest of the wiring and plugs.Also make sure the ignition switch is on when bleeding.
Harry.