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Post by Bruce on Jul 15, 2004 16:34:41 GMT 11
Can someone tell me what is the easiest way to remove the alternator please?
when I start up in the mornings the alternator take about a minute to come in, it just goes click click and no mater how hard you rev her nothing happens for about a minute. It does not do it again all day no matter how long you leave her sitting, so out she has to come and I would like to do that myself and save a bob or two.
Hope to hear that it might be simple ha ha
Cheers Bruce.
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Post by geeves on Jul 15, 2004 19:15:11 GMT 11
You can get to the bolts from underneath Cant remember if they are 12 or 14mm.Use a short spanner that isnt long enough to get enough leverage and it will turn half a spanner flat at a time.A good trick could be a ratcheting spanner. When this has come up before it has taken 3 hours to get in and out . Also remember that the vacume pump is on the back of the alternator This has an oil feed and drain and 2 vacume pipes.Good luck
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Post by Yarno on Jul 15, 2004 21:01:14 GMT 11
I found last time I removed mine that it was easier to remove the radiator, as it was impossible to pull out...
but now I have 3" body lift I can just remove from the wheel arch
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Post by James W on Jul 16, 2004 7:20:07 GMT 11
There is no relay or anything in the alternator that should be clicking. Have you checked or replaced the charge relay in the fuse box next to battery. It might be easier than taking out the alternator.
A quick test might to borrow a mates relay of another Isuzu as these are plug in relays.
But...the clicking you hear could be the charge relay correctly comming in and out with a faulty alternator.
Any autoelectrican should be able to test all of the above in situ. Sometimes saves a lot of hassle for a small amount of money. Somtimes for free.
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Post by Bruce on Jul 16, 2004 7:57:45 GMT 11
Thanks for getting back to me on this, I just went out (its morning here, when it does this) and removed the fuse cover before starting up and I believe the clicking sound is comming from the charge relay, so now to find a replacement relay. I'll go see the auto lec, want to talk to him about my power windows anyway, brought a drivers side controler (mate brought it back from NZ for me) and it still does not work, must be another problem there.
Thanks guys, cheers Bruce
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Post by Harry on Jul 16, 2004 12:30:35 GMT 11
To remove the alternator I think it's easier to unbolt the aircon pump and push it out of the way.May need to take the battery out first to give the pump somewhere to go.This makes the alternator quite accessable although the nut on the back end of the main bolt will still be awkward.I'm dismantling a motor in place [one handed] at the moment and that's where I'm up to on that side.
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Post by James W on Jul 16, 2004 14:55:12 GMT 11
I don't have an aircon pump as for air con, just for on board air so I can disconnect and move out of the way with no gas loss. Then the alternator comes out the top in about half an hour. I don't need to touch the battery, but not sure if an air con pump may cause the need to. In case you need to remove your alternator Bruce: Let all the belts go. After getting air con pump out of the way, disconnect alt cables, and small vacume hose at rear of alt. Completly remove the alternator belt tensioner bracker/top mount. Disconnect the larger hose from the top of alternator. Do not try to remove the big two way banjo joint here, remove the hoses instead. Disconnect the rear most vacume hose banjo joint, carefull not to drop the copper washers. Then remove the bottom alternator bolt. The bottom alternator bolt is best attacked from above for the front end and below for the rear (nut). Kinda a two person job, but if you can put a ring spanner on and rest it against the block it can be done by one person. I stick a rattle gun on it so one burst and it's off, otherwise if you do it by hand the spanner on the other end tends to fall off regularly. Thus now loose the alternator should now be able to be rolled towards the battery and rotated such that you can get at the lowest rear vacume hose. Done.  |
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Post by Bruce on Jul 17, 2004 15:35:21 GMT 11
Yes Harry though that would be the way to go, but I'll get a mate who is airconditioning tech to have a look so when I undo it I don't bend any pipes or have to loosen any flanges, I don't won't to have to regass, thanks.
James I will print your advice off and put it in the car file incase I have to remove it. Am getting a auto electrician to have a look on Monday, still hoping it is the charge relay.
Cheers Bruce
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MattMU
Isuzu Senior
Rodeo Now!
Posts: 206
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Post by MattMU on Jul 18, 2004 10:36:08 GMT 11
Bruce, My MU has ALWAYS done that with the charge relay. I cant heqar mine, but on first start-up, depending on the temp it takes about a min or so to excite the relay and start charging. All the dash lights saty on till it kicks in (obviously).
Been doing that for about ohhh, 7 years and 240 000 km.
Always thought I would get onto it but it doesnt bother me now, just know it takes half a min or so when its cold to start charging!
But with the Alt removal, if you do remove the battery, the air-con pump will lift out and sit on the battery cradle without removing any aircon lines!
Then the Alt will lift straight up and out after disconnecting all the lines and cables!
Not too hard at all!
Matt.
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Post by justin on Jul 18, 2004 11:36:51 GMT 11
I've replaced my aircon pump an alternator under Matt's guidance and it was pretty straight forward as he describes. The only pain in the butt is the lower rear mounting bolt on the aircon pump, which is solved with a small open end spanner & patience. J
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Post by Bruce on Jul 18, 2004 13:32:21 GMT 11
Matt
Thanks for that info, some times it's good that some one else has the same problem, I though it was a temperature thing, but this morning it was colder here than it has been in a few days and it did not do it, so I'll just live with it to. Thanks for the info on the removing the alternator, keep my fingers crosssed I don't have to though.
Cheers Bruce.
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MattMU
Isuzu Senior
Rodeo Now!
Posts: 206
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Post by MattMU on Jul 18, 2004 15:06:55 GMT 11
Ahh yes Justin, the memories come flooding back now, yes that bolt is the worst part.
There is a little 10mm manifold nut that scrapes ur fingers constantly undoing that lower bolt, so I removed that. But other times I have used a little 1/4 in drive socket set from behind the turbo (with loooong extentions) to reach it even easier!!
I doubt you will have to worry about it Bruce, not unless the time it takes the Alt to kick in gets too excessive. Mine is definately temp sensitive, I know it shouldnt be, but it is. If I park the car inside the garage and it stays pretty warm (ambiant) it stays on till the first rev, otherwise its about 30 seconds down the road!!
But its all good, might replace the charge relay ....one day!
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Post by caffa on Jul 19, 2004 9:05:10 GMT 11
I've replaced my aircon pump an alternator under Matt's guidance and it was pretty straight forward as he describes. The only pain in the butt is the lower rear mounting bolt on the aircon pump, which is solved with a small open end spanner & patience. J Yep, I'm with you J. Commonsense will get you through it. I removed the battery as well which in the end I dont think I had to but oh well, gave me a chance to clean in around there. I didnt remove or touch the air con. I grabbed the bride to help with the bottom nut and bolt on the alternator though. One of us apparently thought that this was a safer option and assured nothing else would be broken/damaged when one of us got the sh**s ... When I had mine removed, which BTW was doing the same thing for about two years then finally one day, didnt go "click" and kick in.... I took it to my sparky and he benched it. The problem with mine was in fact the brushes. He first bypassed the charge relay to eliminate it from the equation because i told him thats what I thought it was. It made perfect sense to me. (He said thats why I'm the glazier and he's the sparky). When he tapped it with a hammer the needles all pointed in the right direction and did what it was supposed to. Shut it down and repeated process a few times and same thing. Apparently they had just got to a point when it wasnt going to happen any more. He expressed concerned about the shaft rear seal and it leaking oil after he pulled it down and reco'd it. He couldnt find anything to sleeve the shaft which was worn and I wanted it back so he did what he could and it now works fine. I was beginning to think it was standard procedure with the click and wait as our TF Rodeo did it as well. |
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MattMU
Isuzu Senior
Rodeo Now!
Posts: 206
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Post by MattMU on Jul 19, 2004 11:22:30 GMT 11
Oh PS, when I changed the 2.8 to the 3.1, used the newer alternator from the newer engine and guess what.....the time taken to excite the alt was still the same. Hence, why I know its the car and not the alt. My spare Alt does exactly the same thing!!
But like I said..until it doesnt work anymore, no point trying to fix something thats intermittant and livable!
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