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Post by timster on Jul 22, 2007 11:49:25 GMT 11
Does anyone have any ideas about this?
The mu 3.1 doesn't want to start unless I recharge the battery.
1. At idle it shows 14 volts, at high beam it drops to about 12 volts.
2. Amp meter reads about 30 to 40 amps at connector between alternator and the black box of fuses and relays
3. Amp meter reads about 0 amps (not sure as it wavers) when connected between the lead from the black box of fuses and relays to the battery.
Fuses look ok, therefore could it be a relay?
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Post by muvit madness on Jul 22, 2007 14:15:25 GMT 11
hi timster does'nt seem to be loosing any charge according to your amp meter this way. altanator seems to be charging correctly. to me that sounds like the plates are gone in your battery coz it does'nt seem to be holding the charge over night. question is *Is the battery fairly new, *is it a deep cycle one (haevy duty),*water levels fine in each plate. (unless maintanance free of course), *finally have you tried another battery in its place over night to see if its holding its charge this way? cheers muvit  |
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Post by James W on Jul 22, 2007 20:01:23 GMT 11
It could be as Muvit suggests, or a bad didoe or two in the alternator... i.e. battery discharges into the alternator... obviously a low cuurrent and overnight. Without a better ammeter try disconnecting the two alternator plugs overnight and see if that fixes the problem.... A hint of this is the low volts you are reporting. The didode pack converts the 3 phase alternator AC output to DC. There are six diodes, one dud and it will still work but there a hugh losses and reverse discharge.... either that or somethign else in the vehicle is causing a discharge. Hope this helps :-)
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Post by geeves on Jul 22, 2007 20:10:07 GMT 11
If the charge relay has gone it could cause this. A meter across the battery should show just above 12 volts with the engine off or at idle but climb quickly to 14 volts if you give it a quick rev then return to the earlier reading. If it does this replace the battery. If it doesnt look elsewhere.
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Post by timster on Jul 24, 2007 19:51:11 GMT 11
Does the lead that comes of the black box(with the fuses and relays) and connects to the battery, provide the charging for the battery? I can't seem to find any other wires.
When idling the voltmeter on the console shows 12 volts, climbs to 14 on revving it, and drops to 12. According to description this means replace the battery??
The battery started the vehicle after 3 days just.
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Post by geeves on Jul 25, 2007 12:02:03 GMT 11
Dont trust the vehicle voltmeter for this You need to put a multimeter across the two terminals on the battery and do the same test. Preferably a digital multimeter.
The vehicle voltmeter is not direct across the battery and can be confused by a number of problems.
It does sound like a bad battery How old is tyhe battery
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Post by grunta on Jul 25, 2007 21:01:39 GMT 11
Hi Timster, mate sounds verry likely that the battery is scragged ,if the alternater wasnt charging the volt memer in the car would only show the charge in the battery and not go above 12v, as you said the metre in your car shows 14v off idle i would lean heavily towards the battery as the alternater is doing what it is suposed to!
just my 2c dude
Cheers
Grant.
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Post by timster on Aug 5, 2007 19:25:29 GMT 11
I think I found what the problem was, because the vehicle starts after a week without being started.
The second battery is removed, but there is a wire from the box of fuses and relays that was attached to positive lead which had corrosion on it. Since there was not a battery terminal holding the lead connector tight, it got loose and allowed corrosion to set it in.
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