Bad Steering Issues

[Gobbles]

Well...Put the car into the shop today to get it looked at and apparently she's in a pretty bad way. All I thought I was going to be up for was the replacement/repacking of the Front Right Wheel Bearing...Apparently it is totally shattered so its getting replaced today and then next week comes the good part of the rest....

List of things straight off the bat that the mech. saw was the Drag Link was in need of Replacement and also that the Tie Rod ends we worn and he is replacing them as well for me....

Quote for parts at the moment stands at $100 per Tie Rod end and $600 for a new Drag Link connection. ANyone have any ideas of where I can pick up these parts New/Second HAnd or Reco'd not from Holden because we all know holden loves to whack the price on.

Cheers,
Kurt.

[mulover]

Dude, that is day light robbery, I have a mate at repco and he sold me the tie rods for $15 each, they are greasable ones too, And by drag link do you mean idler arm? That was $80. Now i'm not saying you'll get these prices, but try putting them through a trade acount or something.

[geeves]

I dont know if these people would export to Aussi but its worth a go. It where I get all my ball joints (36 for last tie rod 60 for a bottom ball joint)
www.bntnz.co.nz/
Im suprised the likes of supercheap and repco cant help you They bend over backwards to sell these parts here and are both Aussi companies.

[Gobbles]

I might jump onto it tomorrow...I think the guys main issue was he didnt know where to look for parts.

Any ideas on the Part numbers?

Kurt.

[geeves]

Ive just gone into all of these places and asked "can I have a (insert part here) for a 89 bighorn" Theyve looked in there computer and either gone out the back and got the part or said we havnt got one but this place has well have it by tomorrow.With parts places like these who needs part numbers

[Yarno]

Mate I think I have a drag link here if you need it. I also have the idler arm.....

[Gobbles]

I'd be interested in it but freight to the Gold Coast by Monday.. :S...Any Ideas?..

Also I havent tryed the places here for Parts...But I like to go prepared instead of getting there and being left high and dry...Might give them a call first I think.

If i ask for the Rodeo drag link/tierods will I be on the money?

Cheers,
Kurt.

[Witchdoctor]

Try Gold Coast 4wdrive Wreckers ask for nick

[geeves]

The ball joints etc are the same but the center arm might be differant but easy to measure and check

[Garth]

Most automotive parts suppliers, REPCO, PARTMASTER, SUPERCHEAP etc all have the suppliers manuals with part numbers for all vehicles, generally have to say it is a Jackaroo instead of Bighorn etc but they usually know that anyway. Just ring around a few of them and ask for a quote for the parts you want, then don't be afraid to say you can get it cheaper elsewhere and can they better the price, most places will drop the price at least 25% or to trade prices to get a sale.

[geeves]

For the record Ive just done a wheel beering on mine It was done quite quickly after going to adjust it and finding what looked like bits of bearing cage around the adjusting nut. Turns out they came frome the needle roller in the back of the hub.
Costs from Holden were needle roller 30 axle seal 32 Hard to compete wth these prices.
Outer wheel bearing 100 inner wheel bearing 99 seal 28 I got these elsewhere for 80 total
If Id bought everything from Holden this would of been 300 in parts but by shopping round got this down to 140

[mulover]

Most engineering supply shops can supply the bearings and seals, except for the seal in the back of the hub as it is genuine only. My wheel bearings are $55 a set/ per side and the needle roller bearing is about $10 or so, i really love trade discount prices!!!!!

In the last wheel bearing kit i got the wheel bearing seal was 58mm inside diameter, i am just wondering what you guys use as it went on easy enough, previously i have been using 60mm seals. Would like to hear what you guys recon.
John.

[geeves]

old one had no markings on but measured 58 mm Just out of interest in the back of the hub theres suposed to be a washer thats show on the diagrams but on mine there wasnt even enough of it left to tell which side of the seal it belongs. What does it do and is it important? Its not in there at the moment but Im going to have to do more sugery soon as the cv boot and baall joints are nearly at use by date

[mulover]

Thanks geeves, i thought the 58mm one went on too easy, it just seemed like a perfect fit, this is probably where alot of the water has been getting in!!!!

The washer i think you are talking about is about 1.5 - 2mm thick?? its supposed to be between the seal and the needle bearing, i think it is to stop the bearing from moving in and out, but don't qoute me on that.

John.

[geeves]

Not sure about the thickness It looks like it might of had an upturned edge once and Im sure it was outside the seal. I hd to replace the hub anyway due to wear and the second hand one I got came with stub axle etc There was no washer on the new one. Cant see it makeing much differance to the bearing Its as tight as the seal in the seat. The old stub axle contained only part of a neddle bearing and severe rust. I had to polish the running surface on the axle with 500 grit emery paper as ther was no way it was going to work as a bearing surface. Result of 16 years with 8 containing true abuse.