opinions on isuzu mu

[bushbaron]

Hey there people
Im new to this site and this is my first post so hopefully you'll all be gentle and help me out with a query??

Im looking at updating my '85 shorty pajero and have been considering the 2.8 turbo diesel mu but I dont know anyone thats ever owned one. I figured the best way to get some opinions would be to visit a dedicated isuzu forum so here i am

I live on the southcoast of Western Oz and tend to play in a lot of soft dunes/beaches and rutted up dirt/rock tracks. So far the mighty pajero has served me well but it lacks a bit of power in some situations (2.6 petrol) hence the reason im looking at a turbo diesel.

What type of mods would i need to consider? Ive just spent the last 2hrs browsing the forum and watching a lot of vids. Ive edited this post because my original question was "how would you rate them as a 4wd?" Ive seen for myself now.... mountain goats on steroids would probably sum it up

Any info would be a bonus whether you rate them highly or not. Thanks in advance, looking forward to hearing from some of you.

bushy

[geeves]

Some Pajeros had amazing articulation some were hopless I dont know which ones were which.
The 2.8 would be the better motor to get as it seems more reliable and more ecconomical. Also in Aus its easier for parts as the Rodeo has the same motor. Nearly all mechanical parts are shared with the Rodeo. Still get a mechanics report on your choise of wagon Some were poorly maintained by original owners and the speedo might of been played with.
Before doing any mods try it out for a few months and see how it goes as you never get the cost of mods back if you sell it. For your use the first mod would be proper tow hooks then 31 or 32 inch tyres then a small suspension lift. You can also put in lockers Lsd etc but they go well without these so only do them if you need them

[bushbaron]

Hi Geeves thanks for your reply... obviously you dont need to be stripped of your avatar

I understand what your saying about driving it before any mods are done, thats exactly what I'd be doing. I was more interested in hearing about the things you guys have had to do to your MU's to get the performance thats evident in the videos. Besides bigger tyres and suspension lift, have any of you done engine mods or isnt it nescessary?

Im just trying to get a rough idea on what I would need to spend to purchase one plus the extra $$ Id need to factor in to get it up to scratch.

Apart from crawling over deep rutts how do they perform on long steep, soft sand/black coastal dirt? This is where I'd be using my next 4wd most. A lot of my area can be pretty hard going in summer so I definitely need something thats going to keep the revs up and not die in the ass like the paj.

thanks again
bushy

[geeves]

Crawling in ruts would be a weekness due to the poor front end articulation. This can be helped with a small lift and ball joint flip at no cost beyond time at the front and maybe an auto loka in the front. For the rear a spring lift can be achieved with longer shackles but new springs from Lovels Dont get the heavy duty ones. would be a better bet at around 500. The shocks are fairly good but will be old so Rancho or Kyb shocks work well.
In sand its realy about tyre choise 31x10,5x15 work ok or if its got 16 inch rims 265/70/16 tyres Dont get too agressive a tread and if they dig holes try lower pressures. I normaly run 15 to 20 psi over similar terrain.32x11.5x15 tyres will give a bigger footprint and not dig in as much but will loose a few revs and a little power. Should be ok though.
Engine wise they go ok out of the box but a slight tweek to mixture can give more power as can a slight advance to the timing. Talk to someone who knows what they are doing before attempting this at home. Fitting an intercooler can help as well but it can be a fiddly job as can a snorkle.
Only lockers available for the rear are ARB manual lockers which cost nearly as much as a whole Mu here in NZ. The LSD diff works quite well though and is the same as similar year Jackeroos and Rodeos. (check the ratio). Some have lsd from factory some dont Look for a code G80 on the plate and check by lifting both rear wheels and turning one.

[bushbaron]

good info geeves, thanks very much mate

one other question for now though.... What is an auto loka and is this pricey? Sorry but Im not very mechanically minded

bushy

[bushbaron]

disregard that lokka question... i googled it ;D Still none the wiser on prices though if anyone could give me a rough idea??

[dasnoboarder]

I paid $767 including delivery for mine.

It's getting installed on Monday ;D

From www.genie4x4.com

[geeves]

Bushbaron appears to be in Aus. Since they are made in Aus they should be cheaper there but not by much.Dont know a source in your area but most 4wd shops should be able to help. The genie site will give you the right part no though as many Aus places wont recognize imports

[bushbaron]

yeah geeves i am in Oz. Thanks for your help fellas, now all i gotta do is find an MU in Western Australia

Does anybody know of a jap import dealer in Perth that may be able to help me with enquiries?? Cant find anything on the web. Found a few in eastern states but i wont be buying anything without looking at it myself so not much good to me over there.

cheers
bushy

[Jimmu]

Hi Bush Baron,

Welcome aboard.

The MU is a great little truck. Reliable and tough as nails.

The biggest weakness is the front end being IFS there is limited travel.

The most effective modification you can get is the LSD rear ($400 or so) Lokka front ($500 ) combo. That makes the world of difference off road.

Add to this a free flowing exhaust ($600), boost up($25 for controller), intercooler ($500)and fuel up ($200 with Dyno tune) will get you up around the 100Hp at the wheels. They get along nicely with this much power.

I have also added a snorkle for water crossings ($400 fitted)
2" Suspension lift and new Shocks($600)and 2" Body Lift ($120) in preparation for 33's ($800)

If you want the ultimate off road weapon a MU is not for you. Not compared to a Patrol or Cruiser anyway. But if you want something a bit different that turns heads and is fun to drive on and off road they are a great choice for the money

I hope that gives you some idea of the mods and costs.

Jimmy

[francesco]

Welcome BushBaron,

The first things I would do is put on a good set of Shocks and Freeflow exhaust.

the rest has all been said

Regards

Francesco

[mudgrip4]

Probably best place to buy front lokka is 4wd Systems Online Adelaide. Their website is www.4wdsystems.com.au. Ask for club price for the lokka as this makes a bit of difference. Lots of isuzus have this product fitted and it seems very good, very durable and tough. You do have to use it carefully however to avoid busting cvs.

If you develop your isuzu in stages, just my opinion but I would tend to fit a rear lsd first- will add quite alot to performance offroad and is easy to use. Maybe wait til you see what type of 4wding you do over time before you fit the lokka. Would also definitely be looking for a truck already fitted with an lsd before you buy. Save heaps.

Mike.

[geeves]

How much do lokkas affect sand driveing. My experiance would be that articulation is less of an issue but crossing side slopes is. Even with lsd Ive noticed a greater tendancy for the rear end to slide down hill. A common beach for us has very soft sand with a slope of 30 deg or more. The sand is softer at the waters edge so you dont want to be forced down there on a riseing tide

[bushbaron]

Thanks for all the prices jimmy, thats help put things into perspective a bit more. Cheers mate

Thanks for your tips francesco, I will be building it up in stages so priorities are handy to know

Mike, in what way would you need to be cautious? I understand what a lokka does (thanks google ;D) but never used one so I wouldn't have a clue how it would differ from the norm. How/why can it stress the cv's?

bushy.

[geeves]

If you lift one wheel then all the torque is applied to the other wheel. If you are turning at the same time the cv is at max angle where it is at its weakest with twice as much load as normal. If you have done a suspension lift the angle is even worse. If you then spin this wheel and suddenly get grip the cv becomes the weak point. With practise you can change a cv in under an hour and they are not too expensive second hand.

[bushbaron]

thanks for the explanation geeves, it makes sense. I think I'll hold off on the lokka unless its absolutely nescessary. Like i said earlier, Im no wizz when it comes to mechanics so Id hate to be stuck in the bush holding the spare cv in one hand and scratchin my head with the other

Im likin this forum, you guys are knowledgable and helpful.... something you dont find on other forums