|
|
Post by mooman on Jul 17, 2007 9:39:11 GMT 11
Hi all, Just put 32 11.5 MT/R's on 10" rims onto the Mu. Have got the panel beater to do what he can to stop the rubbing but it is still rubbing just a little. Will winding the torsion bars help with the rest of the rubbing? Also would i need certs for the bigger rims? never needed certs for the same tyre and rims before but now the offset has changed.. Cheers
|
|
|
|
Post by James W on Jul 17, 2007 11:47:31 GMT 11
It depends where it is rubbing. If it's at the front or rear of the arch a lift won't help much as you are moving the tyre up and approx the same distance away from the guard.... rather than away... A lift of course moves the tyre away from the top of the arch. I got my front guards trimmed by a panel beater at the rear of the front arches... about 2" at the bottom, tapering off to the normal wheel arch ending about 2/3 of the way to the top of the arch....all that was needed to fit 33"x 12.5"'s...... His eyes lit up when i pulled up for a quote.... and then looked disapointed when I told him I didn't want all the dents fixed... by rather for him to cut it up some more.... was about $170 all up, and can't tell that it has been done. I'm pretty happy with that.
|
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Jul 17, 2007 12:11:34 GMT 11
I would of stuck with 8 inch rims. You might have to play with offset but this might cause rubbing elsewhere.
Any tyre that is larger than original diameter or increases the distance from the center of eack tyre to the center of the other tyre by more than 25 mm requires cert. Luckily most garages dont seem to know what the original size tyres look like but if you have a prang your insurance company will and might hold that against you. Its hard to argue that your cars roll over wasnt helped by those taller tyres even if you had been sliding sideways into a ditch at 80kph and the roll over was inevitable.
|
|
|
|
Post by mooman on Jul 19, 2007 9:01:43 GMT 11
The only rubbing at the moment is on the mud flaps. I've been to the panel beaters and had as much removed as i can without it affecting the WOF, So cant cut anymore out and i need about another inch in the rear.. if lift wont do it what will?? I still have the wrangler AT's on the 8" rims so will use those for the WOF  . Cheers guys, |
|
|
|
Post by mudgrip4 on Jul 19, 2007 14:02:19 GMT 11
10" rims for 32x11.5 muds is not best size - too wide. The proper size rim for 32x11.5s is 7.5 to 8", rather than 10". 11.5" is not a super wide tyre, and in spreading the bead so wide you will probably bunch up the tread a bit on top and get uneven tread wear. The extra width of the 10s might be more trouble than its worth - certification issues etc and for no real offroad advantage because your tread width and bite is just the same with 8s.
We run 32s on 8" rims and I think you might be better going back to your 8s - try putting one of your new muds on it and experiment with rubbing with your old 8" rim.
My 32s on 8" rims did rub a little bit on full left lock in front, and on the back mudflap at full rear articulation. I used to be a bit cautious using hard left lock, and used to drop off the rear flaps when planning to a very demanding trip. Easy to do.
A 25mm lift would undoubtedly help but would cost alot - with the necessary certification. James' alteration to wheel arch suggestion above would cost alot less if you want a permanent solution.
Try new muds on your 8s - personally I'd get rid of the 10s - no advantages to them.
Cheers Mike.
|
|
|
|
Post by James W on Jul 19, 2007 15:37:48 GMT 11
Mooman, only a little rubbing now left? I assuume you have tried full articulation? and full lock at the same time? thats when you'll get caught in a jam or big hole somewhere... and you can't avoid chewing everthing to bits even if you tried not to.... best to try it at home first. To fix the warrant issue (and certification really) get some rubber flairs aviliable from various 4WD type places or para rubber if you want to DIY. It is all possible though.... I have a 1.5" suspension lift (shackles/torsion bar crank), a 35mm body lift and run 33"x12.5" without rubbing..... it comes mighty close at the the extreams but it can be done... oh, and if you give up on your mud flaps.... especically if you reverse while the tyre is burried in shigle or some other medium that when in reverse pushes the flap against the tyre.... i have four flaps..... all scattered around the south island...
|
|
|
|
Post by mooman on Jul 20, 2007 9:36:09 GMT 11
Yeah.. the problem is with full articulation and wheel lock.. Removing the mud flaps might help a bit too but thought you needed those for WOF? Have already put the flexy flairs on.. 10's werent what was ordered.. I did order 9" rims for the same tyres.. think i might swap them for the 9".. should get rid of the rubbing problem i hope..
Cheers guys
|
|
|
|
Post by Pissy on Jul 20, 2007 9:42:58 GMT 11
Is anyone getting rubbing on the bull bar mounts?
I think I had a bad offset when I tried 285/75/16 which cause the tyre to rub against the bull mount at full lock, would have been quite damage as it would have really killed the tyres.
What OFFsets are you guys running either in 15" or 16" for 33" or 285 PLEASE
I have yet to get rims and tyres so 33 or 285 doesn't matter.
|
|
|
|
Post by mudgrip4 on Jul 20, 2007 13:54:01 GMT 11
Mooman - if you have to swap back from 10" rims - think hard about going to 8s rather than 9s. This will almost certainly help your rubbing at some points on full lock. My Canterbury clubmates, with isuzus and other trucks, all run their 32s on 8s, not 9 - 10"s and they are spot on. No offroad advantage with the wider rims - only potential problems.
The only way to get increased tyre footprint and thus traction advantage for a 32"x11.5 would not be bigger rims, but lower tyre pressures off road - eg dropping from 30-34lbs to 25lbs - otherwise no gains. The bigger rims on what is an an average size tyre, tends to create problems you don't need to face.
Good luck
Mike.
|
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Jul 20, 2007 14:54:21 GMT 11
Ive run 31 inch tyres on 7 inch rims for 10 years without problem but the tyre company books states 7.5 as a minimum size For 32 and 33 inch tyres it says 8 to 10 inch rims. Sticking to the lower size helps hold the tyre on the rim at low pressure which helps stop the tyre spinning and eating the tube if you use tubes and reduceing the likly hood of rolling a tyre off the rim if you dont. I normaly use 20psi off road unless real muddy then 15 or less but you can feel this in the heavy steering. I have heard of 7 inch rims on a 32 inch tyre but this can cause funny wear issues. Most of the cruiser boys running 35s are still running 8 inch rims although a lot have found a need for beed locks
|
|
|
|
Post by mudgrip4 on Jul 20, 2007 18:23:56 GMT 11
Yes - local tyre company which services most Canterbury 4x4 clubs says 7.5 - 8 inch rims for 32s and 33s, and almost all local club trucks using 32-33s" tyres run on 8" rims.
|
|
|
|
Post by muvit madness on Jul 20, 2007 18:49:59 GMT 11
hi i'd have to agree with mudgrip4 coz my 35x12.5x15s are on 8s anything wider in rim size will result in rim scuffs against rocks especially when lower pressures are run eg;20> when i ran my 33x12.5x15 wranglers the front were 8"rims & the rear were 10" rims looked tough on road but when i wheeled around rocky terrain it was very hard to stop rocks from scuffing the rear rims coz of insufficient tyre width over rim size not to good when your runnin eagle alloys  but the fronts seemed fine. now i have 36x14.5x16 super swamper iroks on 10" eagle alloy rims for the front & rear the tyre walls seem perfect for that size rim. just need to finish SAS before i can fit em up. cheers muvit  |
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Jul 20, 2007 19:42:02 GMT 11
they be masive tyres for a mu. What ratio are the nissin diffs. Hopefully at least 5/1 or the 2.8 will struggle or do you have rock crawler gears
|
|
|
|
Post by muvit madness on Jul 20, 2007 20:18:51 GMT 11
hi alan i had the standard 4.2 ratios but thought they would be too tall seeing as though the mu ones i have are 4.55 spinning the 35s so i changed both crown wheel & pinions to the 4.8 ratio at the cost of $1200. i'm hoping the ratio change should get the speedo in around 5ks give or take. as its exactly 10ks out with the 35s & 4.55 ratio. also 1st gear low range is also a bit quick for my liking. if i could source 5.2s or above i would've but they're just not available as the 4.8s were. cheers muvit |
|
|
|
Post by mudgrip4 on Jul 21, 2007 11:12:02 GMT 11
Muvit makes a good point - one of the great advantages off road in tough terrain with 32s and 33s on 8 inch rims, is the bit of tyre bulge which sticks out from the side of the body and rim. This is entirely legal in NZ if your tread edge is still in line with body edge. Don't know how many times this has acted as a bumper, sliding along muddy and clay banks and saving my panelwork. Combine this bit of bulge with flexible rubber (bushranger?) flares and you've got a very useful side-bumper system - which alot of club guys know about and will use if necessary.
However - and its a big however - you must check banks first and avoid rubbing against sharp rocks, or you'll be needing new tyres. But if you're careful its a real help in slippery conditions having that buffer. I had no damage to tyres or bodywork in hundreds of trips - very useful. Must admit I got out several times to inspect the panel damage after sliding into and along banks - but never damaged tyres or truck there.
This also pinpoints the advantage of rubber side flares over the fibreglass ones standard on some isuzus like the R model. The fibreglass widebody style flares look great, but unless you get your tyre offset right when offroading with them, they are easily damaged and torn off - usually disappear from club trucks quickly. Also quite expensive to replace.
Mike
|
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Jul 21, 2007 14:53:01 GMT 11
The fiberglass ones arnt that expensive to replace. $25 at Bunnings buys 15 meters of recycled plastic garden edging plus stainless steel screws. 2 hours fits with no tools other than a knife and screwdriver. Doesnt look quite as good though. Should of done this mod far sooner than I did so I could of put the fiberglass ones back on to sell instead of scattering them all over the countryside
|
|
.
but the fronts seemed fine. now i have 36x14.5x16 super swamper iroks on 10" eagle alloy rims for the front & rear the tyre walls seem perfect for that size rim. just need to finish SAS before i can fit em up.
