Post by auzzie on Nov 9, 2004 9:49:11 GMT 11
Well I have finished the engine rebuild finally. The diesel oil really soaks into the skin. I found a loose exhast manifold and buggered rear engine seal. I honed bore and replaced rings even though everything was still very good, and all gaskets/belts. I also replaced all hoses and removed the metal pipes at the back of the engine to run straight through rubber heater hose. I had a bad experience way out N/W Queensland with a blown heater hose. All I can say is these hoses are just about imposible to get off at the back of the engine in the middle of nowhere. Thanks to all who posted part no.s for belts etc.
It was still weeping a little oil. I removed the valve in the top of the rocker cover. I feel this is too restrictive and if you are installing an oil catch can setup, I feel this is a must, as the only purpose the valve serves is to stop some of the oil from venting with pressurised air, but as a byproduct keeps the sump under pressure (bad) Without this valve installed be prepared for a lot more oil being caught. Definatley stick to 16mm hose for all the connections venting air. I changed to smaller connections on my temporary catch can and instant oil leaks developed. I tapped into the oil line between the sump and the alternator/brake pump to drain oil caught, but this DOES NOT WORK. The oil pressure on this side of the sump drives an incredable amount of oil up this pipe even at idle. Also using this your catch can would probably be mounted on the turbo side of the engine = heat and cluttered enough as it is. I am choosing to drain caught oil back into the dipstick as previously suggested. I am getting a custom made oil catch can made up with 16mm hose connections and am connecting the outlet back into the intake. I may install a temporary boost gauge to this tank to make sure it is operating under a slight vaccum. Too much vacuum may loose seal on sump and other gaskets. I will also install some steel scratch pads (dish washing variety) to make sure most/all oil is caught in the can and drained back into the sump.
Conclusion
I have herd of a lot of MU's leaking oil now and see one now and then in the trading post with engine run without oil. When my engine first started leaking due to this pressure problem it went from full to not even registering on the dipstick within about 1 hour of hiway driving. I was lucky enough to have stoped and noticed all the oil on the back of the vehicle. Before that 1 hour it never leaked a drop in the 30000kms I had owned it for. So I would recommend this install as a must for all 4jb1t owners. I would be interested to hear of anyone elses experiences with their catch cans.
Cheers Jason
It was still weeping a little oil. I removed the valve in the top of the rocker cover. I feel this is too restrictive and if you are installing an oil catch can setup, I feel this is a must, as the only purpose the valve serves is to stop some of the oil from venting with pressurised air, but as a byproduct keeps the sump under pressure (bad) Without this valve installed be prepared for a lot more oil being caught. Definatley stick to 16mm hose for all the connections venting air. I changed to smaller connections on my temporary catch can and instant oil leaks developed. I tapped into the oil line between the sump and the alternator/brake pump to drain oil caught, but this DOES NOT WORK. The oil pressure on this side of the sump drives an incredable amount of oil up this pipe even at idle. Also using this your catch can would probably be mounted on the turbo side of the engine = heat and cluttered enough as it is. I am choosing to drain caught oil back into the dipstick as previously suggested. I am getting a custom made oil catch can made up with 16mm hose connections and am connecting the outlet back into the intake. I may install a temporary boost gauge to this tank to make sure it is operating under a slight vaccum. Too much vacuum may loose seal on sump and other gaskets. I will also install some steel scratch pads (dish washing variety) to make sure most/all oil is caught in the can and drained back into the sump.
Conclusion
I have herd of a lot of MU's leaking oil now and see one now and then in the trading post with engine run without oil. When my engine first started leaking due to this pressure problem it went from full to not even registering on the dipstick within about 1 hour of hiway driving. I was lucky enough to have stoped and noticed all the oil on the back of the vehicle. Before that 1 hour it never leaked a drop in the 30000kms I had owned it for. So I would recommend this install as a must for all 4jb1t owners. I would be interested to hear of anyone elses experiences with their catch cans.
Cheers Jason
