HELP !!! Dash lights stay on, no aircon

[francesco]

Went for a big trip on weekend with Dave and Bruce and some other 4bys to Landcruiser Park....on the way home All my dash lights came on and around the same time my aircon stopped working, even the regular air fan doesnt work. The Dash lights now always stay on when the Mu is turned on.

Just the week before I had a dual battery installed to run a 50lt Waeco fridge, and also put in a fluro light.

Took it to an Auto elec to look at it....he thinks their may be problem with it. The Alternator is definently working...it charges....but he says its over charging...to high a voltage...I saw the meter read at about 16v...this was while increasing the rpm.

The Auto elec said not to leave it too long as it could possible cause all sorts of other problems and blow stuff He said it could cost anywhere between $200 - $550 to fix if it is what he thinks



Any thoughts???



Thanks

Francesco


P>s .....also I diddnt go though any water....but there was loads of dust.

[pig75]

I think there is a relay in the engine bay fuse box that controls the lights might pay to check it

[PeterSchurms]

Mine did this after a rather deep river crossing, I dried around the back of the altenator and all the elect plugs that I could see and they went off. I cannot remember if the AC stopped working though.

16V is way too high. Should be around 13.8V max. It could be the regulator. Over charging can shorten battery life also. I'd be getting that fixed.

Pete

[James W]

Usually these symptoms is a dead alternator which causes the chrage relay to drop out. The charge relay drops all non-essential loads when the alternator is not charging (well... for normal charge relay operation).
These 'non essential loads' include air-con and heater fan.
If you alternator is outputting 16V it would suggest it not a lack of charge. Look at the charge relay in fuse box next to battery and bear in mind the altenator regulator MAY also be faulty. Re-check the output volatge once you get it charging again.

[francesco]

Hi All,

thanks for your replys

I checked the relay in the fuse box, and yep.....its fried.
I pulled it out and now the dash lights are off and my airconditioner works! so I have left it out for the moment (hope thats not bad idea?)

As it is charging too high 16v, the auto elec says I will still have to rip out the alternator, and get it fixed. It seems that the price for reconditioning (from what I found of other posts in the forum) that I can range generally from $260-$570. I actually managed to find a supplier and picked up a brand new one for $495. I looked at wreckers but they wanted $280 for it after exchange. So I thought it would be worth just to get a new one

So I plan to remove it, take it to the auto elec...let him have a look....and if its really stuffed then I will install the new one.

If the auto elec says its not to bad and only needs minor repair....then ill get the old one fixed and return the new one (supplier says no problem)

So this is my plan.

Have I missed anything or any other suggestions...I be very gratefull


thanks



Francesco ;D

[francesco]

Also....whats the best way to remove alternator.....can I remove it without taking off the airconditioner??

[caffa]

Sounds like you've got it all under control. That sure is a good price for a new one, you sure about that ?
As for removing the alternator, I personally think its a pain in the bum ...

I removed the battery as well which in the end I dont think I had to but oh well, gave me a chance to clean in around there. I didnt remove or touch the air con. I grabbed the bride to help with the bottom nut and bolt on the alternator though. One of us apparently thought that this was a safer option and assured nothing else would be broken/damaged when one of us got the sh**s ...

On my set up I cant see how the a/c pump can be moved, the lines clearly dont appear to have that movement in them. It may have been my paranoia in not wanting to upset it or invite a gas leak either.
Your best bet is to have a look here
clubisuzu.proboards29.com/index.cgi?board=Electical&action=display&thread=1089869681 and decide from there.
If you want to tackle it yourself and want a hand, I am available Mondays for the next few weeks atm.

[justin]

Not sure if you have brought the new alternator yet but you can get a new one from AEA for $415 + freight, ($450 delivered to Syd). Email [e-mail] or call 07 3277 4566.
When I replaced mine in Feb, I just removed the battery unbolted the aircon comp, and sat it where the battery lives. The only hassle is the bottom rear bolt on the compressor which is just a slow opened end spanner job, the rest is not a problem. J

[francesco]

Justin....what model number was that alt....and is it the 80amp one???


Also do you know the part numbers to replace all the belts?

[oleg]

How old is your battery? Sometimes when battery fails (f**ed sell or dry or just foulty) alternator detects low voltage and starts charging "full on" and if it was for a long time it can fry many thinks.So, check your battery first.
Oleg (autosparky by the way)

[pig75]

I replaced the alt in the mu with an 80A one. Model No Hitachi number ALT7055R-80 cost $552 from AEA. As people have said the back bolt on the compressor is a pain

[justin]

My alternator was the same as pig75's and the belts for the 3.1 are 22400 & 17600, Dayco Top Cog gold label, 22400 $15, 17600 $22.50, according to Bruce from QLD.
Just ask for the replacement belts for a 4JB1T Jackaroo at Repco and they'll advise you. J

[francesco]

Hi ya,

thanks again guys.....great help

Tested the battery...everything was fine there...so yes....had to replace altertator.

I got the 80amp from auto electrics Australia....got it for the $415 price like Justin said...thanks Justin. My dual battery system will be happy about that.

Thanks for your offer Caffa....but its all done, I was going to do it myself, But decided to just get it done by Auto elec....I...had to get some other little things done and I really dont have tools, or the time


thanks again.