|
|
Post by Pissy on Jun 29, 2004 12:30:50 GMT 11
Ok guys, I am a little confused so this may be a stupid question to ask, but when you get a suspension lift done to a MU or any other similar vehicle, are there different ways of doing it. I mean is the leaf over axel method a good way to lift the car or should I stick with the standard lift kits (2-3 inches). I believe that the front torsion bar liftings will remain the same but it’s the rear that I am confused about. If they are much different, what are the pros and cons of each and approx cost in OZ $?
|
|
Dave
Isuzu Senior
Posts: 169
|
Post by Dave on Jun 29, 2004 15:02:07 GMT 11
Isn't the leaf over axle a fairly "involved" process?  Try the following to see what I mean.. www.4x4wire.com/isuzu/tech/SOA/?I would just use extended shackles, a whole lot easier. ;D or is there something different to lifting Mooos? Dave |
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Jun 29, 2004 15:33:03 GMT 11
Spring over lifts are a lot of work and give a lift of around 6 inches which is a lot if you want to drive on the road . Shackell extension is cheap and easy and gives more moderate lifts but make sure your shakles are strong enough they take a lot of sidways presure when cornering etc. Also for each inch you get as a lift the shackle has to be 2 inches longer.
Best way is to either reset your old springs or have new ones made. Im just in the process of haveing new springs made by Lovels in Austrailia and delivered in NZ for NZ 470 for the pair. These give a 30mm lift on top of my current 35mm sag
|
|
|
|
Post by Pissy on Jul 5, 2004 13:06:33 GMT 11
Thanks guys, I have made a few enquires myself and found out that it's actually illegal in Queensland for any vehicles to have this modification?
Strange ?
|
|
|
|
Post by Yarno on Jul 5, 2004 18:16:28 GMT 11
But luckly for me it's legal in NSW....
|
|
|
|
Post by mudgrip4 on Jul 6, 2004 12:05:22 GMT 11
Can help on moderate lift. Last weekend fitted new shackles to rear, 70mm longer - giving net height gain of 35mm. For the front I adjusted torsion bars up, then balanced height along sides and across front with a spirit level and tape. Because there was less room now at the top bumpstop gap, I popped out the bumpstop and cut off half of the 30mm of rubber. Then in 15 minutes each side , I dropped the balljoint to the underside of the A arm - and this has restored full bumpstop gap and movement.
For the new longer shackles, I got a cobbers firm to strengthen them. Made the sides of 8mm steel with a 3-4" plate of steel fitted inside the shackle and welded to either side to give them total rigidity.
Result: a fairly easy procedure, not much cost, very strong shackles for $85, and a 35mm lift all round which is very useful. Just did wheel alignment - necessary after this much change. For Chch people a clubbie referred me to a chap called Costa at Watkins Wheel Alignment in the old bus workshop on Moorhouse Rd - $45. Excellent job and way cheaper than many.
The balljoint flip is optional, but you appear to need this or at least trimming off the upper bumpstop to keep the upper gap and movement.
Many thanks to all who have given lift advice on the site - it worked a treat and am very pleased with results. Mike
|
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Jul 7, 2004 14:05:58 GMT 11
With the balljoint mod do you need a spacer or shim to get the shape right. I have seen a kit the includes a tapered spacer for the balljoint flip
|
|
|
|
Post by mudgrip4 on Jul 7, 2004 15:35:56 GMT 11
No spacers or shims required for mine. 88 swb. Very easy and very quick. The balljoint mounting plate fits neatly on the bottom of the A arm and uses the same 4 bolts. No problem with wheel alignment either - the bloke didn"t even notice the flip.
I would guess the flip contributed approx 10mm increase ( the thickness of the mounting plate and the A arm) to the upper bumpstop gap, with the shaving of 15mm off the top rubber stop giving me the rest. So now have 35mm+ lift with suspension still midway between the upper and lower bumpstops, which is ideal.
Very pleased to find road handling unchanged and no hardening of front ride due to lift winding up bars. Used spirit level along sill edge to allow rear to be 2-3mm higher than front. This immediately levelled once people climbed in back seat. Also balanced lift heights across front with tape measurements either side.
Very simple and excellent results, especially when combined with new taller tyres. Had price of $280 from certifier to approve extended shackles, larger tyres and balljoint flip. Mike.
|
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Jul 8, 2004 13:16:55 GMT 11
Did the ball joint flip req the cert or was it just the tyres and shackles. Also how much free travel is left in the cvs. I have new rear springs arriveing soon for my 89 lwb with a 30mm lift so will need to do somthing similar to my front.
|
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Jul 8, 2004 13:33:35 GMT 11
|
|
|
|
Post by mudgrip4 on Jul 8, 2004 14:33:37 GMT 11
Hello Alan - the spacer looks interesting. My alignment has come up really good so spacers not needed for that. Only thought I have is whether its worthwhile spending $41 for just 6mm gain. It's not alot. You get 10mm from flip.
Re balljoint flip, a bit of a grey area re certification. You can probably get away with it as its just about undetectable, but could cause problems in event of vehicle damage and insurance assessing. Will get mine certified when I get my wider tyres and shackle extension covered. Unsure about cv travel - perhaps email James -he might have a better idea. Forgot to check. Mike.
|
|
|
|
Post by justin on Jul 9, 2004 7:54:14 GMT 11
I must admit when I did mine, I was ready to do the ball Joint flip, but for 10 mm it didn't seem worth it. The alignment was ok and I think just reducing the size of the bump stops is good enough.J
|
|
