Car alarm and central locking

[James W]

I'm putting in a car alram into my mu that has remote central locking as a feature.
The drivers door lock is not motorised but the passenger one is. Can I get a motorised one (passenger side) from a wrecker and add that into into the drivers side?
Is there existing wiring to support this, perhaps for RH drive vehicles?
Has anyone done this or will I have to make it up as I go?

I could live with the passenger side not "driving" the driver side. i.e. the driver side is still the master

There's nothing high tech about it, I'm just wondering if there is any prior knowledge out there.

Thanks,

[MattMU]

OK James, been there done that!!

The passernger side is a slave and the drvs is the switch for it, just a cheap fix for half of central locking!!!

So you only need a slave for the drvs side, you dont need a full master lock because the switch is already there....do you get me?

The only difference between a master and a slave lock is the in built pressure switch and the extra 4ish wires!!

So just scout around any CarSound place and pick up a slave (a full 4 door kit is less than $50) from out the back. The installers should have heaps laying around left over and I have found that if you ask, they send you out the back and the installers usually just throw you left over stuff!!!

You can now mount it using the wire and lock clip that grabs onto the doorlock rod. then test your switch wire for out and in (the one its sending to the other side)and cut into it, so both actuators work in unison now as slaves, but because your side has the switch in it, it sort of is the master!! pretty simple really??

The rest of the alarm install is as per the book for remote central, you have to install the relays etc cutting into the switch wire again as per the installation instructions!!

So get that little test light out and get into it!!

Goodluck!!

Matt.

[James W]

When you say slave, and I say motor I think we mean the same thing?

So add the new slave/motor and tap on new wires onto the exisiting open an close wires from the master switch? Right?

Does it mater that the drivers door will try and drive itself when you unlock by hand? I suppose not, as with the passengers side now?

Those 4 pack door kits are avilable here from Dick Smith at $50. Less at trade price. I was just wondering if one from a wrecker would have the right connector etc, but doesn't sound like much of an issue.

"So get that little test light out and get into it!!"

Heheh, I'm surrounded by multimeters, oscillioscopes, logic anylysers and spectrum analysers.... so it's not going to be to hard for me to handle.

As I say it's not high tech, but that little prior knowledge saves a bit of time.

Thanks Matt

[justin]

I've done it to both My Mu's, using an remote imobilizer kit and an additional actuator from Strathfield Car radios at $10. Just remove the manual actuator from the drivers door, use the existing wiring to get you to the driver side footwell, then run a second wire from the passenger side footwell and connected them both up to the control box for the alarm. The only fabrication needed is the connection from the acutator rod to the lock on the drivers door. You will find the eye on the new actuator is slightly too small for the existing rod and you will need to reem it out to fit the rod end and plastic sleeve in. I just fixed the actuator to the bottom inside corner of the drivers door with self tappers. J