transfer case

[lndrvamad]

Hi, I'm a new user with a 94 Bighorn.

Just wondering if anyone had thought of lifting the transfer case some how to get it up out of the way a bit.

And could some one tell me what the clicking is from my hubs when I engage 4wd, I've had them apart and regreased them but it hasn't seemed to have made any difference.

Cheers

[geeves]

If you do a body lift you can use spacers to lift the transfer case but you can run into driveshaft vibration issues and its unlikly you would get enough to make a differance. Is yours swb or long. A susspension lift will help as it lifts everything as would going to 32 or 33 inch tyres.
Are you hubs auto or manual. Try locking them by the normal method then select neutral and try and turn the half shaft If it turns you have a problem still in the hubs if not it might be cv joints or the needle roller in the rear or the stub axle assembly. If your very unlucky it might be a broken diff.
When you regrease free wheel hubs dont use too much grease you only need to coat the surfaces Too much has a hydrolicing affect preventing full engagement

[lndrvamad]

The hubs are factory autos the will eventually stop clicking sometimes but then the whole process starts again when you take it out of 4wd.

[geeves]

Might be time to hunt down some manual hubs. New superwinch or warn or avm. Used asin from a 87 or newer bighorn or Mu but check the number of splines. Remember to shim it to as little freeplay as possible. James had trouble setting this up on superwinch ones as a machined spacer is required.
Where are you?

[James W]

Bend down on one knee and read what is wriitten on your hubs, if it says "auto" you need new ones.. end of story.

The CV shaft is a little longer factory auto hub fitted vehicles I think, it's easy fixed with an adaptor, basicly a fancy washer. See my website;

jamesw.kicks-ass.net/4wd/mods/mod_index.html

See the first photo in the doc, if you have got good eyes you will see the 'C' clip won't bear onto the hub assembly as the splined shaft is to long. Be sure to shim or set the end float for good fit for the rear seal behind the hub or it will take on water.

I can make some for you if you get stuck, maybe for a pint of beer or simular

[mulover]

You can remove the guard around the transfer case if you don't do much around rocks, but i have never been game too as that guard has taken some big nocks!! Do a suspenson lift and go to 32" tires as this will give you alot more clearance, even have a set of dedicated muddies and keep your old ones for road use, i wouldn't bother trying to space the tranny as then you will have drive shaft issues like geeves said and possibly motor issues too?

[geeves]

Ive read on an Amigo site of people giving the gaurd a decent knoch pushing it up only to wipe out the drain bolt on the next rock. This leaves horrible slippery oil all over the rocks for the next person and your tranfer case deceased. That gaurd is there for a reason some people have even made stronger ones although Ive only had to panel beat mine once. (It takes a 5 pound hammer and a lot of sweat)
The tranfer case is fairly well protected The sheild is a shape that doesnt get hung up to easily and if the suspension is at std hight its the same hight as the rear dif head. Its only one of several things that drag on the ground will following the big boys with v8s and 36 inch tyres