1988 Bighorn Handbrake Drama

[mardy193]

Has Any one else had alot of problems with the hand brake on the 1988 bighorns. 2.8 diesel disc brakes back end??

Mines failed it warrent 3 years in a row because of brake dramas and has had i couldn't even tell you how much money spent on it.

Firstly is there anything you can do to fix problems with the handbrake setup and secondly does anyone know if the set up of say a 1996-98 bighorn with the drum and disc assemble fit the same axle layout or can be made to fit on the 88 model or would it be easyier to use the entire backend of the 96-98 instead and adapt the diff mounts to suit.


Thanks for any help

Martyn

[HiMuZuLux]

To answer the first bit, the Bighorn rear calipers have a shocking reputation for being unreliable as far as the handbrake goes. Its not just yours. They constantly need adjustment and seem to sieze as well.

I can't say for sure, but I am pretty certain that the later axle will bolt up under the older truck. I'll try to remember to take some measurements as I have one of each in the workshop at the moment (the older one has good working calipers I could sell you for a quick fix )

As for the handbrake, I'll have a look at that too. The cable ends will be different, but you could have someone like safe-r-brakes (assuming you are a Kiwi - must be some place in Oz like that tho... brake repair chain store typre outfit) modify the cable ends cheaply enough.

The diffs I think are the same.

Steve

[geeves]

You can use the diff assembly off an earlier bighorn with the drum brake but the wof man might demand certification although nothing else in the brakes has changed between models. To use a later disc/drum rear brake definatly would need cert and noones tryed this before. Might work but also remember its nearly impossible to fit 15 inch mags to the disc/drum hub.
Theres realy only 3 things that go wrong with this break
1 Siezed pistons and or slides. Make sure these are free moveing Clean and lube with rubber grease. If the boots are stuffed BNT sell a complete seal kit for both sides at around $80.
2 Jammed adjusters. The mechanism that you adjust the pads with is inside a 12mm bolt at the back of the calliper and is adjusted with a 6mm allen key. Be very carfull adjusting this as if excess forse is used it can break. Its a major to fix once broken.
3 siezed cable. Make sure the cable is free running in all the pivot points and inside the cable sheeth. If it binds at all when being released the calliper adjuster winds back to compensate resulting in no handbrake.If the rubber boots are shot they are unavailable but Ive found that the boots off the clutch cable on Nissan Sunnys and Primeras will fit adequatly well.
My handbrake didnt work very well for the first 6 years I owned it but after fixing all of the above including spending 2 hours working kerosene followed by oil down the handbrake cables it worked perfectly till I had to replace the brake pads and broke one of the adjusters due to a siezed piston. Apart from this little drama Ive had a perfect handbrake for 2 years now and expect it to continue working for the life of the wagon.
If you in Wellington I could have a quick look if you like.

[geeves]

The later ubs69 bighorn is coils on the rear so would be a bit of work. A Mu one with this setup might work though if you can get one.
They all share the same axles so you might get away with just changing the half shaft and bearing assemblys. Its uncharted territory measure everything 3 times before you start and take lots of pics of the project.

[HiMuZuLux]

If you use the later MU axle (which is the one I was thinking of, and I THOUGHT I had one, but I gave that axle to James to play with... make sure its non-ABS, and preferably has no oil leaking into the drums.

The ABS ring on the axle doubles as the bearing retainer and they are about $92 each for ABS ones on top of the wheel bearing kits... other than that you would have the ABS sensor hole to fill then they should be identical.

I would think the spring perch measurement (approx 1000mm from centre to centre) will be the same - but James, if you read this could you please measure the spring perches, centre to centre and the wheel flange to wheel flange measurement on that axle?

I would also think (although I don't condone it) that it would be unlikely a WOF guy would even notice the change so cert would be unlikely needed

Steve

[mardy193]

Thanks Guys For The Help.

I am in Christchurch to.

I'm taking the truck into safe'r'brakes on thursday and i'll see what the damage is and then work out which way to go.

[blksprrw]

So would I need to do the same? I have a 89 Mu which even though I have tightened up the adjustment in the cable, still wont hold the car on steeper sections...

[geeves]

Correct cable adjustment is so with the handbrake released there is half to 1mm gap between the end stop on the caliper and the cable lever. If you tighten it further than this it cant self adjust Looser and you run out of travel. Also on the back of each caliper there is a 12 mm bolt Inside this bolt is a 6 or 8mm allen head adjusting screw Be very carfull adjusting it. Also these are a single pot caliper so the whole thing floats on the 2 bolts These need to be free moveing If not rubber grease is best for lubing them as it dosnt melt and stays put better. Biggest killer though is the cable itself. Once the rubber boots give up mud gets in the cable and the whole lot siezes. The cable needs to travel freely in the sheath. It took me 2 hours to free up one of mine only to have to do it again 6 months later. You cant get replacment rubber boots so I did some research at the local wreckers and found that the boots off Nissan Sunny clutch cables are a good fit. My cables have been perfect for 2 years now.
If your unlucky your pisons may have siezed. BNT do sell resleeved pistons but it is a major to fit them.
Where in NZ are you

[blksprrw]

In auckland... Will jack the car up in the week ahead to see what the clearance is like at the calipers

[Garth]

Keep everything lubed up and moving nicely and these brakes are a lot nicer to work with and adjust. I periodically remove my handbrake cables and run penetrating oil through them. Finally had to replace both the rear calipers as was sick of constantly having to adjust the handbrake. Cost about $470 each side but works great now with the new ones. They can certinally be a pain come WOF time, pays to jack up your truck and check and adjust them just before driving down for the WOF.