|
Post by j-ellis on May 13, 2008 22:19:14 GMT 11
hi all just wondering what the part number is for front and rear pad for my 91 isuzu mu. tehy have decided to stop working also think im going to need new disks part numbers??? um oh and this is a fairly stupid question but i dont the answer to it so how stupid can it be hay!! do i have a drum or disk rear braking system cheers all your help will be greatly appreciated
|
|
|
Post by geeves on May 14, 2008 12:21:57 GMT 11
91 mu uses disc front and back. The 3.1 Mus from 94ish had a drum in disc setup as do 92 and later bighorns. go to www.clubisuzu.com and click on part numbers for the pads Not sure if discs are there though. Also lube the caliper slides when changing the pads remember that one is a sleeve that has to be free moveing the other just the bolt
|
|
|
Post by j-ellis on May 15, 2008 0:23:02 GMT 11
yeah i ended up finding the pad numbers but not the disks any way cheers. is the lubing so they dont cease up or something?
|
|
|
Post by geeves on May 15, 2008 7:17:42 GMT 11
they are very prone to siezing esspec if used off road. Then only one pad does any work ie 50%brakes. When you look at the caliper you will see one of the mounting bolts goes though the casting the other through a sleeve. This sleeve must be free moveing in the casting. This is the second biggest problem with isuzu brakes and affects front and back. If the discs do need changeing they are common to 2.8 jackeroos,troopers,2.8 rodeos and common as mud Any brake specialist worth dealing with shouldnt have trouble getting them. Have they reached the wear limit. Mine are original at 200000km and will last a long time yet
|
|
|
Post by j-ellis on May 15, 2008 19:48:32 GMT 11
must ask whats the first biggest problem is then ?? yeah mine has done 170***kms and i dont even know whats wrong with the brakes but i got paid today so to the brake man it will go on saturday
|
|
|
Post by geeves on May 16, 2008 7:12:57 GMT 11
biggest problem is the stupid handbrake. Since this is due to a number of things maybe it shouldnt be first. If the cable isnt adjusted exactly right (no mechanic knows how to do this without reading the book) It doesnt work If the cables dont run freely in the sheves it doesnt work if the slides described above are sticky it doesnt work if the very fragile adjuster is siezed or broken it works sometimes. Never ever force the adjusting allen key and never ever force the pistons back
|
|
|
Post by mymu2212 on May 16, 2008 10:15:06 GMT 11
Hi had no brakes on the rear of my 91 mu caliper slides were siezed and h/brake cables were siezed one caliper failed in adjusting mechanism was able to free up h/brake cables with a product called rost off made by wurth (magical stuff) replaced failed caliper at $165 for a good s/hand one and new pads disc's were fine have done 360thou probally had new disc's before i got it.
|
|
|
Post by geeves on May 16, 2008 13:37:49 GMT 11
I freed my cables up with kerosene then normal engine oil and a fair bit of elbow grease. Hang the cable verticaly from the sheath and make a funnel that seals to the sheath Fill with kero and work the cable back and forwards keeping the kero topped up. On mine it took 40 min to get kero to run out the other end Once the kero runs freely as does the cable replace the kero with oil untill this runs through replaceing most of the kero. If the boots on the cables are shot you can replace them with the boots taken from the clutch cables on nissan sunnys at the local wrecker(you have to cut the clutch cables to get the boot and you need 4 Dont let the wrecker watch)
|
|
|
Post by j-ellis on May 17, 2008 1:14:45 GMT 11
yeah i think im going to have to drop it off at a brake place as im not that mechanicly minded and the brakes is something i dont want to f**k around with yeah the hand brake is a pain in the arse but you get used to it i guess any way thanks for the help guys
|
|