Noises after lifts

[slightlydodgy]

Finally got all the lifts in I wanted Torsion wind and ball joint flip at front extended shackles in rear 2 inch body lift using nylon blocks and original rubbers. All good to this point apart from findingthat bodymounts wouldn,t tighten down leaving too much movement. Local 4x4 wrecker/ toyota nut suggested taking a couple of mm off the crush tube in the mounts - problem solved. Next came the fun part a 2 inch gearbox and motor lift. The idea was to get the transfer case above the cross member improving clearance. muvitt helped with the engine mount design ended up being a 45 mm lift gearbox easy with a 50x 75 mm box between the mount and crossmember. The biggest problem fitting was getting at the right engine mount and getting the front drive shaft to extend looks like it wasnt greased since it came out of the factory. The problems are the front wheel drive isnt as smooth any more - I could drive on the road smoothly in 4x4 before now not so good especially on decceleration. Even offroad it doesnt feel as good. There is also a banging underneath that sounds like some thing hitting the floor Either under the seat or under the foot wells - nothing is loose and I cant find anything touching the floor. I dont generalyhear it on the road but driving down the race or over paddocks is a different storyand speed doesnt matter Help this is pissing me off and I need to go to the certifiers as my warrant is due. The ute is 90 double cab petrol rodeo

[mudgrip4]

If after this alteration you have driving problems and serious noises, things could go very wrong, very quickly. You may have altered drive train alignment and balance in a big way. I am surprised you needed to do an engine/gearbox lift - I did not with my bighorn with 2" body plus shackle lifts. Did you have to do it to clear the cross member? I only needed to cut extra piece out of gearstick space and lower radiator a bit. Result = no problems at all and whole drivetrain still in line.

If you can't figure out exact cause of problem pretty quick, it might be best to reverse the motor/gearbox lift you've done, and revert to the proper alignment of box/shafts/diffs etc. Misaligned shafts causing uneven movement and wear could play havoc with diffs which are rather expensive to repair.

Are you sure nothing is contacting and bumping on chassis rails now - these run under the footwell area. Is that front driveshaft now overextended and no longer fitting correctly?

Mike

[drift]

Ive a feeling you have lifted the front high enough that the suspension is hitting the upper bump stops, I bet it only happens on slightly bumpy roads not smooth tarmac?

You may need to either lower the front slightly or trim the bump stops to get more clearance.
I know you can purchase low profile bump stops but from what Ive seen they are pretty much the same thickness as standard stops, so trimming may be the way to go.

[geeves]

One measurement that is absolutly critical is the the flanges at each end of the driveshats are paralel ie rear driveshaft flange bolted to diff to the flange after the center bearing if it has one and this flange to the flange at the gearbox (gearbox is a spline so imagine a flange at right angle to the spline) Same for front drive shaft.Changeing the gearbox mounts can of affected this. Also if you dismantled the front drive shaft is it still aligned corectly The ujoints need to be rotated till 90 degrees to each other. Hope this sorts all except the banging but a common culprit is the exhaust

[slightlydodgy]

i checked the gearbox vs engine mount lift and lowered the gearbox to match about an 8mm difference has helped with tail shaft vibration but not what sounds like a back lash on deceleration in 4wd while looking at front driveshaft and measuring flange to flange found another question how much movement should there be with transfer case in 2wd and the hubs locked? I have narrowed down when the "banging" through the floor happens its when the pressure comes on the front left suspension ie minor pothole or sudden deceleration have studied the front suspension but cant find anything any further sugestions? I might have to admit defeat and reverse some lifts and see if that does it but doesnt want to thanks for the suggestions so far and yes i lifted the box and engine to clear the cross member The big problem is we are into calving and i use the ute everyday

[drift]

Have you checked that your anti roll bar is not hitting the shocker ?

[geeves]

try removeing the front drive shaft. Then try in 2wd with hubs locked and unlocked. and 4wd with hubs locked and unlocked. It might point to something. also check for movement in the spline on the driveshaft and the ujoints

[slightlydodgy]

THE BANG IS GONE!!! ;D talked to local wrecker/4wd clubber/toyota nut today he sugested checking the saftey straps under the cab there wasnt much slack and he suggested that these would transfer any noise from chassis/suspension problems undid these and found the noise was comingfrom the front suspension his next suggestion was if i couldnt find anything obvious disconnect one side of the sway bar and if that works throw the f*****g thing away dont know if that is legal though his next sugestion for the front driveline noise was the same as geeves and check the flange angles and that the new mounts are the same if the problem still exists i may have to tilt the front diff a fraction to change the pinion angle any comments his last advise was to buy a toyota or something without ifs thanks all for the suggestions and i hope that my problems help others

[geeves]

removing sway bar would be legal if its removal is noted on the cert plate. I had to put my std swaybar mounts back in for my last wof. I could of gone to a more understanding garage but it was less hassle to refit the mounts. I had been driving for the last 2 months with the disconnects out so instead of refitting the disconnects I might just remove the top nut and leave the swaybay floating in the breeze. It sholdnt be very hard to adjust the diff angle with washers under the mounts but for cert you can point out that 4wd is not to be used on road so he cant test it that way.

[slightlydodgy]

what difference would the lack of a sway bar be on road? am trying to solve front driveline noise only because unusual they annoy me and could mean future repairs dont park your ute in a yard with hiefers either the older cows leave it alone but the hiefers have pushed in both drivers side doors and the front guard doesnt have a step in it at the moment yet another job

[geeves]

The swaybars job is to reduce body roll. Nothing more. On a 4wd removeing it can increase the chance of a rollover but not by much. Off road it trys to keep the car level by ballencing the front springs This reduces articulation considerably. I cant see how it would cause nois unless the bushes are shot

[slightlydodgy]

thats what the wrecker thought until 6 months ago when a nissan came in with a similar noise after replacing every consumable including shocks they pulled the sway bar (with month old bushes) problem solved drove into town for tea tonight ;D lackof sway bar doesnt seem to make any difference on the open road can still get around the 75 corner at 90 -100 comfortably