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Post by Back Track on Aug 17, 2008 16:27:17 GMT 11
[glow=red,2,300][/glow] I am not sure whats wrong have just had the Motor completely overhaauled ie: New pistons / iron sleeves etc etc. From onset engine would not start- turned over but would not fire. Back in garage, -two weeks, garage got it going but was not right, sent to Electrical Auto, they said that the battery was no good, replaced this with a new one, still no good. They then advised that the alternator was in need of repair, this was done. They again got to going then I went out another morning after taking it for a 200kms run and all it would do was a dull click when turning key, but no ignition. Tired of garages has any one any idea. It is a 3.1D Isuzu Turbo Intercooler 1995. Stuffed. Geoff To Geeves. The auto electrician replaced battery with a HD one when they had it there. They advised me that they had checked everything [ which I take to have been the S/Mtr as well]. They also replaced the main Earth wire ie: quote " found bad earth to motor, replace battery term, check glow plugs, circuit and test.] cost $252.00 initial check. 2nd check -Auto El- [ Quote: Check charging, remove alt, alot more involved then usual, Repair Alt and refit, repair deisel leak.] Cost $827.13 Geeves is this any help. Many Thanks Geoff PS I do not have a multi meter.
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Post by isuzumudman on Aug 19, 2008 18:06:54 GMT 11
Geeves is probably best one to offer advice on this. However, the obvious things are fuel delivery (including fuel shut off) and glow for ease of starting.
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Post by geeves on Aug 19, 2008 18:47:51 GMT 11
Charge the battery. Hook a multimeter across the battery posts and try and start. Note the voltages before during and after and report them back here. My thoughts are poor connections either on battery leads to battery, engine to chassis, wire to starter motor. I just spent a week chasing down a dirty joint in a battery lead and possibly threw away a good battery because of it. Generally while trying to crank a poor connection should get hot but you cant rely on this method. Next row of thoughts battery should be at least 650cca and the bigger the better. A small battery wont cut the mustard. Starter motor needs a rebuild, Something siezed in the engine which is highly unlikely I hope
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Post by jack4x4 on Aug 19, 2008 22:38:11 GMT 11
I had this same problem in a 4JB1T engine which has done 360,000 Ks. I think the problem here is that although the starter motor solenoid is operating, the copper contacts in the solenoid are worn and or dirty and unable to pass the required amperage. If this is the case, then you can just replace the contacts. However in saying this, the Auto Elec should have eliminated this as a possible cause.
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Post by geeves on Aug 20, 2008 7:41:43 GMT 11
Voltage at battery should tell the story. If the voltage doesnt drop then the starter is a prime suspect
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Post by geeves on Aug 22, 2008 16:20:50 GMT 11
After seeing the innards of my starter I would be very suspicious of the starter. Water had got in and seized the bearings which had spun in the housing then collapsed The armature had worn through the stator coils causing a short. All that happened when the starter engaged was a little click and voltage drop at the brand new fully charged 700cca battery to 7v.This suggests a current of several hundred amps. The starter mounting bolts were seized to the point that getting it out required a 1.5 meter breaker bar in the socket even after soaking in crc for a day
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