rear brake pad change

[quack]

hey im having a little problem changing the rear pads, the old ones are very worn and the new ones wont fit and i cant get the pistion to go in at all...

is there something im missing here? or doing wrong?

1990 MU 2.8

thanks for any help

[holden]

There is a little 14mm brass bolt at the back of the pistion take it out. In the hole there will be a little alen blot you will need a 4mm alen key. Turn the blot clockwise and then you should be able to push the pistion in. Keep Turning the blot and pushing the pistion in till you can fit your new brakes.


Kane

[quack]

oh yeah i know what your talking about, does this little alen bolt adjust the ballance at all??

[holden]

Nov 6, 2008 13:28:30 GMT 11 quack said:

oh yeah i know what your talking about, does this little alen bolt adjust the ballance at all??

I dont think so. Its just there to make the pistion go in and out.

kane

[geeves]

Whatever you do dont force it!
You should be able to turn the allen key with a little pressure on the piston and wind it back in. If not its time for professional help (take both calipers and both credit cards to your favorite brake place) The pistons do seize and the mechanism that the allen key drives is quite fragile. The balance between the 2 pads is by the 2 slides that must be very free moving to work properly. Balance between wheels is all in the cable

[quack]

ok thanks for the help guys!!!

well ive changed a dozon different kinds of cars brake pads before and usally say the hardest part is getting the wheel off! but oh no not the mu!

i managed to wind the alen out and the piston went in but the the calliper was seized and wounldnt move so finally got that moving and greesed up.

oh and how far do i screw the alen back in? i just have to set this bleed it then i can move to then next, hopfuly it wont be in quite as bad shape

[geeves]

Adjust till the pad touches the disc then back off a little. From there if its working correctly it will self adjust. Things to watch. The slides are the bolt on one side and the sleeve on the other. These are very prone to siezing esspecialy if the boots on the slides are shot. A brake place should be able to match the boots but if not the kit from BNT does both callipers for about $80.
Unless you took the calliper off you shouldnt need to bleed but nothing special on this. Handbrake cables must be free running in the tubes If not the self adjust on the caliper try's to compensate and adjusts back till no brakes. Briliant design feature haveing the end of the cable pointing up so all the rubbish falls out when the vehicle is upside down.If the cable boots are gone I fixed mine useing clutch cable boots from wrecked nissan Sunnys You have to cut the clutch cable to get them so not good if the wrecker is looking (4 boots = 4 cut cables). Adjust the cable so it is 0.5mm away from end stop when released
good luck

[quack]

thanks very much, yes the side im on now was very seized indeed.

the brakes were shocking before now so i decided to give them a bleed while the wheel was off thats all.

once again thank you!

[geeves]

actually thinking about things bleeding is a good idea even though the seized caliper was the real problem. Brake fluid does absorb water and all the good books say it should be completely replaced every 2 to 3 years. We drive through lots of water so this problem is worse for us

[quack]

ok jobs done, but now the handbrake light on the dash is on and wont go off?

is this a fault or does the handbrake need to be loosened?

if it is a fault what could it be

[holden]

Here try this.

clubisuzu.proboards29.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=Drive&thread=782&page=1

[quack]

thanks thats handy, will go check it out now! good to know im not the only one, fingers cross it just a little low on fluid after the bleed

[quack]

hmmm. ok it was a little low so topped it up to max.

after turning it on it was still on (the light) so i gave it a little rev and it went out. but some times i.e wilst stoped if i push on the brake it comes on but when driving it wont and even if going 60km then slaming on the brake and clutch it wont, the brakes now lock up tho

sometimes it feels like the brakes are shooty too though, how do i check for the vacuame?

the light never came on before i changed the pads and unseized the caliper tho, and the brakes sucked!

[geeves]

Possibly an unbalance. Check your front calipers for similar seizures. You are probably only locking the rears

[quack]

i know the drivers side locks not sure about the other side tho, ok i get it before the back and front were seized now only the front are which now is causing the imbalance

[pig75]

The light sounds like low vacuum light. Next time the light comes on pull the wire of the vacuum switch and see if it goes out if it does you might have a leak in the booster

[quack]

hmm were is this wire is it on the front of the brake booster thing, becuase i noticed that it had fallen off, so i put it back on and now the lights on??

ok then what is the best method of finding a vac leak?

[geeves]

if there is a vacume lleak the brakes are rubbish

[pig75]

It might just be a faulty switch

[quack]

ok ive had a busy but succsesful day ;D

ive managed to grease up all the caliper bolts, change the powersteering pump, replaced the speedo cable, fixed the oil leak from the alternator and fixed the brakes properly,

there was a small vac hose that had sliped off its conector by all those relay things on the passangers side. put it back on and now my brakes are mint!

so now i have a speedo, powersteering and brakes next is the wof.....

thanks for all the help!