JaSiN
Isuzu Junior
96 Grey Mu + Plenty of Mods + Plenty more to come!
Posts: 139
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Post by JaSiN on Nov 24, 2008 1:05:10 GMT 11
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Post by Pissy on Nov 24, 2008 9:31:22 GMT 11
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Post by geeves on Nov 24, 2008 11:28:24 GMT 11
Strenghen the tie rods and the center arm is next to take a pounding. Strenghen that and you tear the steering box off the chassis.
Ive had the steering wheel torn out of my hands several times and never bent a tie rod. Its easy to carry a tie rod in the tool kit just in case
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Post by mulover on Nov 24, 2008 13:39:31 GMT 11
I'd agree with geeves there, i've only ever seen one broken in 6 years, and there is a couple of us with mu's that get a pounding, both with 32's on. A second hand one is cheap from a wrecker, is easy to carry and is the easist to change/fix on the trail. I have seen a couple of steering mounts ripped off the chassis though, not nice when your in the sticks!!
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JaSiN
Isuzu Junior
96 Grey Mu + Plenty of Mods + Plenty more to come!
Posts: 139
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Post by JaSiN on Nov 24, 2008 21:12:26 GMT 11
True true, but keep in mind there are 3 length's of tie rod end, and i would suggest that the longer ones have more stress applied to them,
I have never seen one before either, but funny enough mine wasnt the only to bend this fine day either.
The price is on the high i agree, but if you look at the price of tie rod ends here, your looking at $25-$30 for each... so x4 then get the bar and its not too bad..
all this in mind of the dollar value this is...
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Post by geeves on Nov 25, 2008 6:18:40 GMT 11
Only other thing to consider is the ball joints. Are the ones used easily available localy They are not the original ones and look unuseual in haveing a male thread.
Im starting to see some ball joints comeing up now for a second change They dont last forever esspecialy with the abuse we give them
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Post by Pissy on Nov 25, 2008 9:13:30 GMT 11
I'm no expert but you might have to constrict your turning circle too as those aftermarket tie rods might be a fair bit thicker than OEM ones thence rubbing onto your shocks (if you use larger shocks). I carry spares (all 3 pieces, but center rod is the most important I guess) but I'm such an idiot as I don't how to replace them should it go bang-bend. They are just too tight for me to undo/screw. DaH  |
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Post by geeves on Nov 25, 2008 10:15:21 GMT 11
When you go 4wding with a group Everyone always helps everyone else You would be very unlucky not to be out without someone who can do the change. If you have the spares then you have all you need.
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Post by mulover on Nov 25, 2008 11:07:07 GMT 11
Pissy is right there, i've got rancho rs9000's, they are not a huge shock and they rub on the tie rods every now and then.
I have to change my outer ball joints every 18 months to 2 years, the more lift/travel you let it have the more they wear out
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Post by mulover on Nov 25, 2008 11:10:02 GMT 11
I have heard of people thinking about tack welding a piece of flat along the side of the arm so give it a bit more strength, not sure how this would work though.
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Post by muvit madness on Nov 25, 2008 22:51:34 GMT 11
Pissy is right there, i've got rancho rs9000's, they are not a huge shock and they rub on the tie rods every now and then. I have to change my outer ball joints every 18 months to 2 years, the more lift/travel you let it have the more they wear out I concur even worse when you run 35's still on the ifs set up the drag link shags out quick as well  . oh btw tacking a piece of flat bar onto the tie rod bar is a waste of time coz its only going to sheer off at the thread end anyway as you cant weld onto the rod ends unless you dont want to have any adjustment?. Best thing there is to carry a spare for both sides. chances are its highly unlikely to banana the same side twice in one outing  Besides of all the wheelin i did when it was ifs i only pigeon toed it once, but went through 5 cv's hehehe. cheers muvit  |
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