My MU Turned Green And Broke Out Of Its Shirt lol.

[blowout]

After recently completing the suspension MODS (for now...). I have paid a lot of attention to the engine and drive train. For example the night before the winter camp out I fitted a boost controller and gauge, along with a Massive K & N Filter ;D. Ran very well and was happy with it. But the other night whilst researching online, I went searching in my engine bay for the Fuel Delivery Screw. I found it, its a long and thin screw with a 13mm hex head at the base. The easiest way to locate it I believe, is if you look from the passengers side of the engine bay at the top of the fuel pump. On the end of the fuel pump closest to the firewall you will find a green plastic cap. From your view it is directly behind and in line of sight with that cap (if that makes sense). All you do is loosen the hex head and rotate the screw with a flat head screwdriver clockwise.

Ill get to the point lol.
Currently I have free flow exhaust, along with the K&N filter so she breathes very well.
So me and my machanic mate wound the boost up to 15PSI, at full noise it will boost to just over that.
Then we set about adjusting the fuel to match.
We got a full turn out of the screw and it was blowing a little smoke (barely noticeable) at low revs but when the turbo spools and the boost comes in it leans it out and no more smoke.
We tightened everything up and took her for a roadie.

The difference was instantly noticeable, it ran smoother and had a very big kick to it even with the 35" muddies. From about 1500rpm right through to 3250rpm it would push you back into your seat.
Then we went to see how she would go offroad (dirt road), in 1st, 2nd and 3rd if I put my foot right down as soon as it hit 2000 rpm and 15PSI the rear end just stepped out due to torque steer (very cool). I'm probably boring anyone who has read this far, but there is a point, anyone who wants more power this is definetly the way to go there is more than enough info to do it effectively, just like i have. I will include photo's as soon as I upload them.
Cheers,
Blowout

[mudgrip4]

You're onto it - this is how to tune the isuzu diesels.

My last 2.8 ran at 155hp and had a thumping 330+ nm of torque - alot for a light truck - and ran at this state for 100,000ks with no problems.

You can also advance the diesel pump timing - might need a diesel mechanic but only takes minutes. This will give an extra boost in power - up to 15hp. The diesel pump advance gives you more power and 500revs extra at the top end - pulls hard out to 3500+, while the addition of a 2.5" bigbore ex turbo gives more grunt and 500revs more usable power at low end - ie turbo will kick in earlier - from 1500rpm.

Makes them very strong little trucks.

[blowout]

Your not wrong, they go very well when tuned right. I read alfabombs' post in this section about advancing the pump and im not game enough to try by myself so ill probably take it to a diesel mechanic and get them to do it just to be safe.

[mudgrip4]

That's advisable - and only takes about 20 mins.

[holden]

whats the sign to stop truning the fuel ajustment screw??

[geeves]

lots of smoke at full throttle. It pays to turn the screw only a tiny amount at a time.Power will go up and up then drop a little with smoke

[dasnoboarder]

I can't wait to test out this adjustment...

The word is that it's only a good idea if the exhaust has been done though, right?

To limit the risk of cracking the head, if I remember right?

Andy :-) .

[geeves]

As you increase fuel you increase heat. Too much heat and bad things happen ie cracked head blown turbo etc. Bigger exhaust helps get rid of some of this heat as well as allowing more air in by getting rid of more exhaust.
This heat only realy becomes an issue if you use full power for long bursts. Top fuel drag cars quite often have no water in there cooling systems but they only run for a max of 2 min at a time though. Also even if they had water in the system the amount of heat generated would prevent the water from being able to contact with the metal surfaces of the head as it would boil violently regaurdless of the pressure in the system

[muvit madness]

Hehehe
Now my mu has turned green & busted out of its shirt no thanks to blowout & a little car park mods so to speak up at zigzag early this morning whilst waitin for people to arrive for yet another stint at blowouts backyard LOL.
As trevor & becka arrived within about 5 mins of pleasantries & hellos my bonnet was popped & trevor was tweakin my pump first a half turn with still no smoke at 3000rpm then another 1/4 turn with a little puff of smoke at 3000rpm.
so we left it at that & straight away a huge differance. man my 36 swampers at 10psi stepped out side ways(in the dirt of course) but never has done that before. also much faster accelleration off the mark.;D
I'm stoked thanks again blowout.
One other thing i noticed also was my engine temp is now running 5degrees cooler than it use too & i'm not flat to the floor driving it where i was always on full boost.
now i'm between 10 & 15 so i'm not surprised if i get more than 500k's to a tank now .
Only down side to fuel tweakage is my idle is at 1000rpm?. But can get it around 750 if i put a spring to return my acc/cable back more after the idle stop screw has been wound out a tad.
Oh BTW if you read this blowout post the pics of the stint as i'm sure our fellow mu owners would appreciate a yoda on its side & a red MU recovering it hehehe ;D. yes laddies & gents my navvy at willowglen (colin) in his yoda ute had a soft roll over on a narrow track which made for a interesting recovery. But he was laughing about it so all was good only damage was a passenger side mirror.
Make with the pics trev!!.

cheers
muvit

[MattMU]

Of course your idle is up....you have increased the fuel delivery over ALL the rev ranges....so at idle it is getting more fuel and running faster.

Just crack the idle stop screw (the limit of the cable on relax) and wind away until you get back to the original idle speed.

Should take 2 mins.

Matt.

[moo]

Done this earlier today. Turbo blades went through my motor.

[geeves]

Ouch
Only way turbo blades break is if they hit something solid. ie bolt or similar went down the inlet or sloppy bearings let the blades touch the housing. Cant see how tweaking the pump could cause this

[MattMU]

Ouch sorry to hear dude...but Geeves is right this alone cannot do what you said.

High EGT can occur from over fueling due to winding up the fuel delivery..but that melts the turbine blades etc but they cannot reach the inlet. Only chance is the melt caused the bearings in the casset to degrade and this allowed the impellor blades to contact the housing and THIS went through your engine.

You wont know till you inspect the turbo and see where the damaged occurred first.

All the best

Matt.

[moo]

Well it's done 260,000kms and been running 16psi since about 200,000 with no engine problems. Last night was when I gave the fuel delivery screw one full turn with a little puff of smoke at 3000rpm and I left it there. I reversed out of my driveway, got into second 50 mtrs down the street and then rattle rattle rattle. I shut it down as quick as possible, popped the bonnet, yanked the inlet to the turbo off and there was a quarter off the blades left.

I've not pulled the head off yet, but I will keep you guys in the know as to what has happened.

After sleeping on it I think I'll buy a new crate motor and new turbo and drop them in.

Cheers

Michael