|
Post by moorefarm on Dec 28, 2008 20:56:29 GMT 11
hey, unbelievable good forum this. Am considering buying my first MU as a Top-End beach buggy and all the threads really useful to making an informed choice.
Here's the rub. I can get the car, 92 MU, 2.8TD (4jbt1) with 120 thous on clock for a grand. But its pissing diesel from injector pump....like all over the engine bay and the floor. thats why its cheap.
wondering if you can help...
Ive been quoted $750 for a second hand pump but they won't gurantee it. otherwise its $1300 to recon mine, plus labour on top....which kinda makes the purchase out of my budget
1/Do those quotes seem excessive?
2/ I've spoken to one wrecker who has one for $300. is it just stupid to buy one from a wrecker, given the labour costs of getting in and out of my car, and the fact that I know nothing about the history of the part (ie it could be ready to shag out anyway)
3/can anyone recommend diesel dude in aust who I could ship mine to whose reliable and affordable, and who knows MU's, for a reseal?
4/ I have a mechanic mate ...could we reseal ourselves??? I read a thread somewhere where an MU owner just bought the right size o-rings and did it himself - essentially its only two seals, front and back isnt it?
cheers for help... ;D ;D
tim
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Dec 29, 2008 19:16:00 GMT 11
There is 3 places it can leak. If its leaking into the timing cover and then out to the ground its a pump out and rebuild Also need to replace timing belt as it will of been damaged. If its leaking from either the top plate or the hole the accelerator linkage attaches too it can be done in situ but is not a nice job. There is an instruction somewhere in the forum about how to do the top plate but I cant find it. The basic pump is a common design so seals shouldnt be too hard to get. When mine leaked it was done in situ but it took the diesel specialist 4 hours. I believe the pump was rotated during the process as it ran like a pig when I first got it back but after he fixed that it went like never before. (dont have to dump clutch to spin 31s on dry seal)
|
|
|
Post by moorefarm on Dec 30, 2008 19:29:57 GMT 11
beaut geeves. cheers
I bought it...so here goes a big gamble.
now found what appears to be two distinct and seperate leaks on the pump. one from just about where the throttle linkage attaches to pump, as you suggested...the other from where one of the four fuel pipes comes out the back of the pump ( looks like someone has applied a sealant there before which has set very hard lark ceramic substance).
anyway fingers crossed we can have a crack in-situ.
now to find a second hand power window motor! thanks again. will post the results when I get um
tim
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Dec 31, 2008 7:35:16 GMT 11
What condition is the rest of the car in? If its at all saveable it would be a shame to use it as a beach buggy. Theres only about 250 Mus in Australia and as a result anything reasonable gets top dollar so a good repair and resell might make you a lot of money
|
|
|
Post by moorefarm on Jan 1, 2009 21:33:01 GMT 11
yeah its in surpringly good nick for age and only 120 thous ks. paint fading on roof, otherwise body is straight and good. didnt realise they were that rare in aus.
still got injector pump, timing belt, air con compressor and big service to go. see where we end up in the budget before I decide its future. from what I see its only a 4 -5 thous $$ car once its all up and going anyway hey?
BTW I got the power window motor working now - but it gets stuck on the rail (inside door) and refuses to go any further until I help it up....heard of that before???...cant see any obvious obstructions on the rail that the window runs up, or in th wire itself that puls it up and down...got me stumped.
cheers Geeves tim
cheers again.
|
|
|
Post by dasnoboarder on Jan 2, 2009 6:59:03 GMT 11
BTW I got the power window motor working now - but it gets stuck on the rail (inside door) and refuses to go any further until I help it up....heard of that before???...cant see any obvious obstructions on the rail that the window runs up, or in th wire itself that puls it up and down...got me stumped. Hey mate, I had this for ages as well, until I took it to Smith & Smith glass. The guy just pulled out the rubber slides from the door frame, and showed me what was wrong. Years of grease/dirt/gunk had built up and it was just a big mess. So we cleaned them up with a little degreaser and a rag and sprayed a coat of silicone spray down them. When they were back in the windows worked like new. Best of all the job was free, if I agreed to go back to them if I had any glass troubles ;D. Cheers, Andy
|
|
|
Post by mymu2212 on Jan 2, 2009 23:46:56 GMT 11
Hi Tim i had a leaking pump on my 2.8td leaking out the top cover a bit otherwise working fine but i picked up a s/hand pump from a wreckers in Bribane for $330 and it has been perfect no leaks and works great and it has done 5000km since fitted. if ya mates a mechanic removing the pump and refitting is a breeze on the mu's takes about 3-4 hrs with new timing belt. if you do take the pump off make sure you replace the bolts in the crank pulley as they tend to stretch and they are cheep to buy from a bolt shop. cheers Glen.
|
|