Demonic
Isuzu Senior
I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder.
Posts: 158
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Post by Demonic on Jan 14, 2009 20:19:30 GMT 11
When you do a balljoint flip, do you need to make any mods to the rear of the vehicle?
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Post by geeves on Jan 15, 2009 6:31:31 GMT 11
All the ball joint flip does is move the relationship of the upper king pin to the a arm pivot effectivly making the arm longer. This is done before a lift to allow wheel alignment to be set correctly. Apart from haveing to lift front and back the same no effect on the rear
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Demonic
Isuzu Senior
I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder.
Posts: 158
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Post by Demonic on Jan 15, 2009 8:15:47 GMT 11
True.. and then wind the torsion bars... then wheel alignment... you also reckon its easyer to do a CV boot change eh? might be good cos i need 2 outter ones done....
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Post by geeves on Jan 15, 2009 11:43:21 GMT 11
Do the boots at the same time and do all 4. Boots are about 15 each and they fit from the inside so the inner boot has to come off. It does make it slightly easier as you no longer have to crack the upper ball joint.
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Demonic
Isuzu Senior
I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder.
Posts: 158
|
Post by Demonic on Jan 15, 2009 12:27:50 GMT 11
Yeah, I have been talking to the guy who does the work on my other car(not an isuzu), He reckons its a big job cos of the 4x4 hubs (I have the locking hubs not the auto ones).. Might have to pull my old manuals out to get a refersher on it (shame it dont cover 4x4hubs tho).
W/o going outside to look at the 4x4, you dont need to remove the inner cv joint ah!, should just be able to cut the boot and slide it on from the outter end?
Smoko time so i might aswell go ahve a look.
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Post by geeves on Jan 15, 2009 16:52:22 GMT 11
2 Ways of doing it. You can use mechatech boots and a special tool that streches the boot over the outer joint or you can use std boots and do it the normal way. If you do it by the book it takes 5 hours a side but noone does it that way. The real way takes just over an hour. Free wheel hubs are easy. just mark the outer section and inner section then undo the 6 bolts. Pull the outer section off carefully You will see a circlip to remove under the grease. Half shaft now free of the hub. Then undo the upper ball joint and tie rod. Hub assembly falls forward off half shaft (may have to push half shaft back into diff) Remove cv boot bands reach into the thick black goey grease of the inner joint and find a wire spring clip and pop out with fingerInner joint now splits.Remove circlip on end of shaft remove the inner section of cv joint pull off the boots and replace Assemble in reverse. easy
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Demonic
Isuzu Senior
I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder.
Posts: 158
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Post by Demonic on Jan 15, 2009 18:46:54 GMT 11
Yeah.. figured as much. It been 5 long year since i last did one... should be good...
Sorry getting a lil off-topic now
The mechatech boots are they the streach ones? from what I had been told they are not as "stong" and long lasting as the older thicker ones. Thoughts? They should make a boot that is longer to allow for more movement for vehicles that have been "tweaked".
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Post by geeves on Jan 15, 2009 19:10:59 GMT 11
No real point making the boots longer as there is only one place for them to mount. The mechatech boots are supposed to have a lifetime guarantee but the only one Ive tryed got staked by something which nearly tore it in two across the corrugations not along them. With a 50mm lift expect them to last 2 to 3 years. I just replace mine every time I do a wheel bearing whether they need it or not
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Demonic
Isuzu Senior
I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder.
Posts: 158
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Post by Demonic on Jan 15, 2009 19:16:25 GMT 11
Good plan.. Thanks
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Post by mulover on Jan 23, 2009 22:21:56 GMT 11
If you are taking the hub off it is a good idea to replace the seals and needle bearing in the back of the hub, if these fail then it will flog out your hubs and let water in, one seal and the bearing are off the shelf from a bearing supplier, the other seal is isuzu genuine only, about $23 i think.
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