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Post by frangii on Feb 3, 2009 22:19:09 GMT 11
Hi guys,
1st of all, i'm new to the forum (and to the Mu Owners tribe) and i must say that I am very impressed with the level of support and interest involved with this forum. One thing i've noticed is that everyone is both helpful and active minus all the BS found on other forums.
Went for a quick off road venture in my 92 4jb1 this week. Went through some level of water but nothing too serious. I've noticed since then that the Petrol, Fuel Filter and Battery light are all illuminated when i drive. I'm a tad confused as i suspected only the fuel filter light should come if (if indeed the fuel filter needs to be bled) and not the batt and petrol light. Any ideas as to what is causing this?
Last week the car wouldn't start on two occasions however it has started fine ever since. Not sure if this is a related problem...
I'm hoping to do a service this week changing the oil (Penrite Super Diesel) and oil filter (Sakura c-1712) and bleed the fuel filter. What oil does everyone else use/prefer?
Any suggestions or ideas are appreciated.
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Post by geeves on Feb 4, 2009 6:11:39 GMT 11
Good news and bad news
first any good diesel oil will be fine so the penrite should be good. Its not a common oil in NZ so cant coment furthur. The filter is the most used one in Aus so also good. Fuel filter should be changed every 20000 or so so if you dont know the history change as well.
As for the lights it sounds like the alternator has failed. A quick test would be measure the battery voltage with engine running at a fast idle Should be 14.5v
You might be lucky and have stuck brushes but 8 out of 10 times its a major alternator rebuild.
It is normal for these lights to come on crossing water but they should go out in a few seconds
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Post by dasnoboarder on Feb 4, 2009 6:29:03 GMT 11
I agree with Geeves, these lights on my MU came on while driving down the motorway, after the alternator had a lot of water. It wasn't charging at all untill the revs got to around 3000.
Luckily the battery had enough juice to run the headlights to my destination. I just kept driving it as normal, and the rpm level the alternator would charge just dropped every time. Back to normal in 3 days.
Hope yours doesn't need a full replacement,
Andy.
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Post by deestingray on Feb 4, 2009 8:33:18 GMT 11
Yep, sounds like the alternator to me. I also went through the same thing you did however my lights stayed on. Thankfully my father is an auto sparky and rebuilt it for me but what we did find was the brushes were pretty sad and the stator had actually shorted on itself (very rare).
Are you in Australia?? If so, you can probably get a new one from Ashdown or Ingrams, they are pretty pricey though, if you have a good auto sparky available, you might be able to get it repaired if that is the case.
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Post by frangii on Feb 4, 2009 12:02:43 GMT 11
Thanks for the replies. I'll check the battery charge at 2500 revs and see what happens. The three lights were very faint this morning and were only on for a few minutes. Is there a way to clean or maintain the Alternator without taking it out of the car ie: in an attempt to free the stuck brushes? I'm assuming the batt voltage with the car unstarted should be 13-14v and at a nice rev around 14v?
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Post by geeves on Feb 4, 2009 13:55:29 GMT 11
engine off anything over 12 is ok but 12.5 ideal. I drove 2 hours with no alternator but delayed turning the headlights on as long as I dared.
If the water was muddy a hose over the alternator then let it dry might help but not a high chance of success. It takes about 1.5 hours to do an alternator swap. Instructions elsewhere on the forum
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Post by frangii on Feb 4, 2009 15:18:29 GMT 11
The water was very muddy. I'll give the alternator a bit of a wash and see what happens. I've had a look for the alternator swap instructions but with no success. Will keep looking. Thanks for the replies.
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Post by frangii on Feb 5, 2009 23:07:07 GMT 11
Got the fuel pump changed - the bleeding was a problem but it seems to be ok now. Thanks to some info Geeves posted in another topic - it got me through the job. Rather than make another thread - does anyone know the difference between a 55amp and 80amp alternator? Is there a specific one for a 92 4jb1 mu? As always, any help is always appreciated.
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Post by mulover on Feb 6, 2009 11:22:54 GMT 11
55 amps is an average size alternator that will run pretty much anything you want, as long as you dont wanna run heaps of lights, winch, compressor, etc, etc all at the same time.
80 amps is getting up there and it will give you heaps of power, make your lights slightly brighter, winch pull a little better, etc, etc.
When my 55 amp crapped out i found a 80amp hitachi one on trade me for like $300, i think it was for a big horn. It was a very tight fit, had to grind a bit out of the tension arm and change a couple of the minor wires around that come off the back, but it is really worth the hassel, before when i turned on my lights (head lights on full plus 100 and 130 amp spotties) the volt gauge would drop a couple of volts, but now it stays around 14.5!!
I will have a look through my trade me and see if i can find the model number.
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Post by elysian on Feb 7, 2009 7:27:51 GMT 11
ALT7055R (55 amp) or ALT7055R-80 (80 amp) .. there is as a ALT7055 which is 70 amp .. but not sure if the mounting points are the same
Or if you want to be extreme ALT160502 , 120 amp from N series Isuzu trucks ( ask Muvit , he put on in his MU and I think someone else did too ) , but it needs a little fab'n to mount up ..
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Post by adrian on Feb 17, 2009 20:05:57 GMT 11
When my troper had this problem i was told it can be fixed, MAYBE by replacing the blue charge relay under the bonnet in the fuse box.
is worth seeing if you can swap it out with a friend first, as when i bought one, all my friend run Land Rovers, it was £45 from the isuzu dealer
it didnt fix the problem, and i needed new altornator, which are extorsionate price, as i am lead to believe they have the vacuum pump for the brakes built into them.
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Post by geeves on Feb 17, 2009 20:34:20 GMT 11
When the stator burns out it overloads the charge relay which dies as well. The alternator is then the expensive part but a charge relay in NZ is $45 new or just over 1/3 of your price. You should go to an Auto sparky for these They will be the same one but much cheaper
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InVinceble
Isuzu Junior
....still says ISUZU on the motor!
Posts: 77
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Post by InVinceble on Apr 29, 2009 12:49:45 GMT 11
One for Mulover....
got anywhere finding that alternator part number?
For anyone else....
My dead alternator ia a Hitachi LR160, anyone know what output that is?
If I go for a larger output unit does anything else need upgrading?
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Post by geeves on Apr 29, 2009 14:25:05 GMT 11
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Post by mulover on Apr 30, 2009 11:22:37 GMT 11
Hey InVinceble, No sorry mate, had a look through all my old stuf on trademe and its not there anymore, If you wanna pay for flights to NZ i can have a look for you?? lol.
I never upgraded anything when i put the bigger alt on and nothing blew up.
A auto sparky may be able to have a look through a book or 2 for you, measure up from the mount to the pully, the mount spaceings etc to give them something to work off.
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Post by adrian on May 5, 2009 9:59:31 GMT 11
or you may be very lucky and just need to change out the blue charge relay.......??
didnt work on mine though, needed new alternator rebuild!
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