|
|
Post by kingman on Feb 21, 2009 10:20:51 GMT 11
Raised the front end of my Rodeo Ls 2.8 double Cab pickup..custom 3" rear shackles wound up torsion bars now my right side balljoint is contantly being damaged also the imbourne joint as well keep busting... Is the 3" list or wound on the torsion bars too much for the suspension or will thr ball joint flip assist with this? My right wheel is currently looking in / like this...would a new ball joint and ball joint flip solve this problem or do i have to cut the bump stops ?  |
|
|
|
Post by James W on Feb 21, 2009 14:02:01 GMT 11
Yes, that is to be expected if you haven't done a wheel alignment since winding the torsion bars
|
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Feb 21, 2009 17:53:40 GMT 11
3 inch longer shackles only gives 1.5 inch lift unless you have other mods as well.
one and a half inches is absolute max you can do without a ball joint flip but a ball joint flip should still be done. The reason is that the upper A arm attaches behind the chassis and as you lift the car you have to remove shims to get the camber corrected but at 1.5 inches you run out of shims. A ball joint flip effectively lengthens the upper A arm so more shims can be added. Also a ball joint flip changes the location of the A arm between the bump stops allowing more downward travel so worthwhile even with a modest lift. You can cut bump stops as well but this increases the stress on the CV joints so expect to break the odd one.
Not sure why this is killing Tie rod ends but its possible I have to change one every 6 months but have been useing second hand ones.
My choice of plan would be ball joint flip followed by wheel alignment which will be urgent after the flip It will also show up nasties like bent chassis etc
|
|
|
|
Post by kingman on Feb 21, 2009 21:22:01 GMT 11
should I reduce the shackle extention to an extra 2" longer than stock instead of the current 3" and disconnect the sway bar and cut my bump stops aswell?
|
|
|
|
Post by kingman on Feb 21, 2009 21:37:34 GMT 11
The only Mods I have done to my Machine Rodeo Ls..(I believe its called a Holden in your area)..Is Ive customed built extended Shackles 3" longer than stock.Wound uptorsion Bar,added shocks from Calmini and am running 31X10.5 BF Goodrige Mud Tarrains..thats pretty much my Mods....
After I get this suspension sorted i would Like to:
(1) Turn up the boost on the turbo
(2) I have a K&N performance filter on order complements this great site.
(3)Increase the exhaust pipes to 2.5 "
(4)Do a 2/3" bodyLift
**if anyone knows where I can source a plug & play kit send me the info please*** (( I am all they way in the Caribbean Island called Barbados) ANY INFO WOULD BE MOST WELCOMED
|
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Feb 22, 2009 7:27:36 GMT 11
From there most parts will be far easier to get from USA than all the way down here. Your shackles are fairly close to what we do down here so as long as you have made them strong enough and prevented the bushes crushing with either a proper pin or a crush tube they should be fine. The Calmini site has a shackel for sale that you can view as a comparison.
When you wound up the front did you measure as you went so you know how much you lifted it?
If not can you measure from the ground to the top of the wheel arch so we can get an idea of how far you have lifted. Ideally it should be the same as the lift in the rear. There are limitations to how far you can lift the front. Disconnecting the swaybar before lifting makes it a lot easier to get both sides the same. Whether you leave it off depends on your use. I have no idea what sort of off road use you have available there if any.
Your biggest problem is the wheel alignment which has to be set in a proper shop that knows how to do 4x4 suspension. If they are not willing to do camber and castor which are almost never adjusted on modern cars go somewhere else. My favourite tyre dealer has said he wont do wheel alignment on 4wds because of how long it takes. He specialises in 4wd tyres.
This leaves the options as
do ball joint flip
measure front end and tell us the answer
Adjust as nessecsary then get a wheel alignment done
What sort of off road use do you get over there?
|
|
|
|
Post by kingman on Feb 24, 2009 3:09:35 GMT 11
After numerous calls to garages and speacking to many Machanics its seems that you are correct...The Alignement shops here do not perform the manual Camber adjustments when it comes to these Isuzu 4x4s...So I was kinda wasting time with them...After numerous calls and disappointments,
I have found a machanic who does the camber adjustments he aslo told me since I raised the vehicle the new angles along with my automatic locking hubs are causing my boots to burst..To relieve this he suggested installing Manual locking Hubs and I have to get Top Arm Bushings as he said these are also responsible for the angle of my wheel.
I will measure my height and keep u guys posted.
He also mention he will "re-index my torsion bars" I have to see this being done bcause I am not sure what it entails
Apparantly he is one of the few people on islanf that does mainly Isuzu.
Will keep u guys posted on my progress
|
|
|
|
Post by kingman on Feb 24, 2009 3:10:49 GMT 11
Thanks Geeves... ;D
|
|
|
|
Post by elysian on Feb 24, 2009 5:42:21 GMT 11
re-index the torsion bars - on each end of the torsion bar, there are spines/teeth ... one end has a keyway in it.. so it can only be inserted one way , but the other end doesn't have a keyway on it ..
Basically the end without the keyway is rotated one or more teeth/slpines in advance to where it is at the moment , what this does is allows you to tension the torsion bar and get more height before you run out of thread on the tensioning bolt ..
Greeves might be able to explain it better than me ..
|
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Feb 24, 2009 7:41:42 GMT 11
We all learn something on this one. Do remember there is a max lift that can be done on isuzu suspension. If you are popping cv boots you will have exceded it. When adjusting the hight its best to start from a known point so lower the suspension till the axles are horizontal and call this standard hight. Then you can raise the suspension 1 and a half inches to match the rear. At one and a half inches the ball joint flip isnt nesecsary but reccomended. Do the top arm bushings and ball joint flip before the wheel alignment as they affect the result.
Manual v auto hubs shouldnt cause cv issues although the circlip inside the hub is weaker on the auto. I would base the need to change to manuals on the type of off road use you get. Unless you do hills that you dont always make the autos are ok if working properly but if they are faulty fitting manuals is better than repairing the autos
|
|
|
|
Post by kingman on Feb 25, 2009 3:36:05 GMT 11
I am seeing 2 Brands online when it comes to Manual Hubs ; Superwinch and Warn. Are these good barnd and also are these universal or would I have to use a specific pair for Isuzu ?
|
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Feb 25, 2009 6:13:59 GMT 11
Of all the aftermarket ones these are the best 2 I would pick warn as the preferance If I had to use them. Idealy though if you can get the factory Asin ones they are better and you dont need to machine up a spacer. You do need to by hubs to fit your vehicle but they are the same for all 89 and later isuzus
|
|
Demonic
Isuzu Senior
I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder.
Posts: 158
|
Post by Demonic on Feb 25, 2009 9:46:44 GMT 11
I would suggest havin a look at pickies, but i have already "reaped" the Mu out there  ... |
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Feb 25, 2009 11:11:25 GMT 11
Um Look at kingmans posts and see where he is. Im sure if he was to offer a free trip to his location as long as you supply the parts and fit them he would have every member of the forum lining up to help. (of course throwing in a week of spare time there would really make the offer).
Dont know if they have car wreckers in Barbados
|
|
Demonic
Isuzu Senior
I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder.
Posts: 158
|
Post by Demonic on Feb 25, 2009 13:24:28 GMT 11
No need to be condescending, But a good thought for sure.
Kingman, I guess parts are hard to come by. I am heading out to Pickies (local wreckers) this weekend, **IF** the hubs are still there, I can grab them and we can sort something out. they are on a 1990 Mu, but if you let me know how many spines I can have a look round. Upto you.
|
|
|
|
Post by MuZila on Feb 25, 2009 16:06:49 GMT 11
Speakin of hubs. I scored a set of aisin manual hubs. I was wondering if there are kits to rebuild them b4 I put them on??
|
|
Demonic
Isuzu Senior
I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder.
Posts: 158
|
Post by Demonic on Feb 25, 2009 19:46:41 GMT 11
There is indeed, Im not at the rebuilding point yet. but been told the kits are about $30nz. prolly just a few seals at a guess., just remember to mark them or do one hub at a time so you can figure out how they go togeather.. There pretty simple tho
|
|
|
|
Post by MuZila on Feb 25, 2009 20:33:16 GMT 11
Oh saweet.
Thanks Demonic.
I will check the local repco and see if they have them.
|
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Feb 26, 2009 6:04:41 GMT 11
Probably unlikely to be a Repco part. Might have to go to Holden or is that fails mitsi or nissan. They all use Asin hubs.
|
|
Demonic
Isuzu Senior
I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder.
Posts: 158
|
Post by Demonic on Feb 26, 2009 8:37:01 GMT 11
Thats true, When I enquired about them at repco they didnt have them but could get them from Holden (+ a nice markup), As Geeves recommended I would start at Holden and go from there, Also if you have access to Capricorn, that might be a place to try.
|
|
... 