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Post by dasnoboarder on Jun 5, 2006 19:28:03 GMT 11
1993 Isuzu MU (a.k.a. Amigo) 5 Speed Manual 4JB1T Diesel I had found what I thought was the perfect 3" body lift for my truck. However, the technical notes on www.performanceaccessories.com(cannot post direct link) say that it cannot be used with a Diesel engine. This is the basic kit desription with a picture: www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/1063M.htmlAny idea why they say no diesel? Would it work on my truck? Any help appreciated, Andy |
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Post by geeves on Jun 5, 2006 19:55:31 GMT 11
You read the wrong tech note. 14 is no diesel 15 is steering extension included.
They look like a well thought out kit and price seems good even with the likly freight.
Only reason it wont work with auto is extra work needed on the shifter linkages.Not impossible to get round only a few more skinned knuckles and new words learnt.
Remember a body lift requires certification at around 400 Also I know of 3 Mus that have cracked the floor pan by the mount under the front footwell after a body lift
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Post by dasnoboarder on Jun 5, 2006 20:19:41 GMT 11
Oh, I see how it works now. Embarrassing...
So it will work.
I know about the certification issue, anyone have a name for a good certifier on the North Shore, Auckland? If not, central Auckland?
What's this about floors breaking? The kit looks like it has quite a few blocks ...
Anything I should do to prevent this? Or is it just a "if it happens, it happens, and weld a new floor pan on"?
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Post by geeves on Jun 6, 2006 13:01:30 GMT 11
I think on at least 2 of them the cracks were welded up and a 150mm square of 6mm plate welded on top of the floor and the mounts bolted through this
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Post by Yarno on Jun 7, 2006 18:55:13 GMT 11
I had the floor crack on mine, it pushed the mounts through the floor. I fixed this by putting a 3mm plate about 150x75mm tack welded in, it hasn't had a problem since.
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Post by Yarno on Jun 7, 2006 19:08:57 GMT 11
oh and the gear sticks will need extending and a lot of stuffing round to get them to work ie. not hit each other. Also check with them and make sure the 4 bolts for the rear blocks are M10 x 1.25 pitch as these screw into the body!!
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Post by dasnoboarder on Jun 7, 2006 20:45:38 GMT 11
Thanks for the replies.
My gear sticks are quite long at the moment ... and I'm thinking having them a bit shorter would be a good thing.
At the moment when in low range, when selecting reverse, the gear knobs hit each other.
With the body lift, would it shorten the throw needed to change gear?
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Post by Graham on Jun 8, 2006 0:21:06 GMT 11
The body lift won't change the gear lever movements at all. In fact, it may prevent them from moving as far if it hits the inside edges of the gear surround. Then you'd need to change the pivot point of the levers, which could be the "lot of stuffing around" mentioned earlier  G. |
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Post by dasnoboarder on Aug 28, 2008 18:03:14 GMT 11
Getting ready for a trip, so I'm finally getting things done on the truck. Starting the suspension lift Saturday night.
Trying to sort out the parts I need for a 2" body lift as Steve from 4wdstuff.co.nz isn't selling the kits anymore.
From reading past posts I've got some info, just want to check a few points.
The bolts are:
4x M10x140mm 1.25 Pitch Hi-Tensile
6x M10x160mm Standard Pitch Hi-Tensile
6x M10 Nyloc Nuts Standard Pitch
Sound right?
The blocks:
The factory body mounts are 60mm, does it matter if I use 50mm or 60mm diameter? (In the high density poly plastic or alloy).
One seller on TradeMe is selling kits made from T6 Alloy and in either 51mm or 63mm. The 63mm will be too large right? Is this good material?
Cheers,
Andy.
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Post by elysian on Aug 28, 2008 19:26:49 GMT 11
I'm using conehead lock nuts , instead of nyloc's .. nylocs are not really rated to do body lifts.. but they will do the job..  the thread of the nut is slightly tapered and slightly eliptical to ensure the nut is tight .. |
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Post by dasnoboarder on Aug 28, 2008 19:45:50 GMT 11
I'm using conehead lock nuts , instead of nyloc's .. nylocs are not really rated to do body lifts.. but they will do the job.. the thread of the nut is slightly tapered and slightly eliptical to ensure the nut is tight .. Thanks for the info, I'll make sure I get some of those instead. |
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Post by dasnoboarder on Aug 29, 2008 9:59:05 GMT 11
Anyone have an opinion on whether the 63mm diameter alloy block will fit, or if 51mm is the way to go?
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Post by geeves on Aug 29, 2008 11:37:51 GMT 11
I cant answer directly but would always go for the biggest blocks that fit. Try and measure the current mounts and check for space around them. Even if you have to buy 2 of the smaller ones or get a couple of the large ones turned down by an engineer haveing the large ones on the rest of spreads the load better
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Post by dasnoboarder on Aug 29, 2008 13:27:31 GMT 11
I cant answer directly but would always go for the biggest blocks that fit. Try and measure the current mounts and check for space around them. Even if you have to buy 2 of the smaller ones or get a couple of the large ones turned down by an engineer haveing the large ones on the rest of spreads the load better Cheers, I'm guessing if the blocks need to be taken down, it won't be by much as I'm sure I've read that people have used 60mm before... |
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Post by holden on Aug 29, 2008 13:54:10 GMT 11
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Post by dasnoboarder on Aug 29, 2008 14:10:48 GMT 11
Cheers, thats the one I'm looking getting, have asked him a question about the diameters, waiting for a reply. |
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Post by mudgrip4 on Aug 29, 2008 15:56:32 GMT 11
I just put high density nylon spacers on my lwb bighorn for its 2" bodylift, and after research (tensile/compression/density ratings etc) with importer the recommendation was for 50m not 60m.And this is a bigger truck than your mu. My local vehicle certifier agreed and passed the truck.
Friend has had them on his lwb truck for years and no issues. We use alot of the high density nylon in Canterbury clubs - we just buy it by the meter or so and cut the spacers to length on a lathe.
I am sure alloy will do well for you. Check tensile rating if you can, but I'd say no need to go up to 63mm esp for light weight mu with many mounting points. If in doubt ring the certifier you plan to use - he'll advise what he wants.
Mike
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Post by geeves on Aug 30, 2008 9:03:09 GMT 11
Alloy looks nice but does cost more. There have been a few Mus crack the floor pan just in front of the passenger seat after body lifts Dont know why but never heard of this on a bighorn To me it sounds like a good reason to go bigger.
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Post by mudgrip4 on Aug 30, 2008 11:07:52 GMT 11
We've got quite a few bodylifted 87-92 model bighorns here and no floor cracking issues. Mu must have slightly different weight/pressure balance on mounting points, and would probably be a sound idea to cut and fit reinforcing plates into floor pan at same time as you do the lift.
I think I paid $60 club price for an 800mm length rod of high density nylon which cut into 12x 50mm spacers for my truck, plus a bit over. This material is available from NZ importers Supply Services (SI) Ltd, ph 03 341 7300 CHCH. The correct nylon product code is UHMWPE - black 50mm diameter rod. Also available in 60mm - bit dearer.
Set of high tensile bolts were about $56 - total round $116 for kit using nylon spacers. If the alloy kit plus bolts is about $160 - sounds fine to me.
Before you order, check under truck to see if all the mounting points will take over 50mm size spacers.
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Post by geeves on Aug 30, 2008 16:32:17 GMT 11
UHMWPE is a type of polyethylene not nylon. Its a very close relative of dynamica winch rope. Perfect for making spacers as its easy to work and incredibly strong etc. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra_high_molecular_weight_polyethyleneIt is not nylon No idea on why bighorns dont crack mounts but Mus do They look identical but thats life |
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