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Post by JustinW on Jan 10, 2007 18:02:50 GMT 11
Well I'm stuck!
The Wizard (these will be the same as 3.1TD Mu or Bighorn) brakes are really starting to p$%# me off. I've had poor braking for ages, not enough to fail a WOF though. I've done the usual things - changed brake fluid. Fitted new master cylinder (the original was bypassing).
The current symptoms are mushy brake pedal. To me it feels like it needs bleeding, but that has been done using the two person manual method.
A mate of mine reckons there is a trick to bleeding them, might need to take the calipers off at sit them on top of the disk?
The other thought I had is the proportioning valve is faulty.
The manual says check the vaccum no return valve but most ex Japan Isuzus don't seem to have them.
Any thoughts before I fork out hard earned green ones at the dealer?
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Post by geeves on Jan 11, 2007 6:59:04 GMT 11
Check that the slides on the callipers arnt siezeing. Check front and back. On each caliper you have the mounting bolt and a locating pin. The calliper should slide freely on the pin but also the mounting bold goes through a sleeve.This sleeve needs to be free moveing in the casting. Free them up by whatever method you can but dont deform the sleeve. Lube with rubber greese. This is high temp and good water resistance. If the boots are damaged you can get kits from BNT The kits do both sides at once.
Does yours have the drum handbrake inside the disk?
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Post by JustinW on Jan 11, 2007 9:19:20 GMT 11
Yes they are the ones with the drum hand brake
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Post by geeves on Jan 11, 2007 10:53:29 GMT 11
That makes life easier as you dont have to worry about the handbrake adjuster which on a pure disk set up like mine and harrys also affects the foot brake.
Anouther thing that Im sure youve already checked is contamination of the pads with oil etc
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Post by geeves on Jan 11, 2007 10:55:45 GMT 11
If youve had the callipers off in the past it is possible to put them on the wrong sides The bleed nipple must be at the top or you cant get all the air out
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Post by JustinW on Jan 12, 2007 10:37:37 GMT 11
Checked last night. The calipers are on the right sides.
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Post by geeves on Jan 12, 2007 10:44:30 GMT 11
Do you have abs?
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Post by Harry on Jan 12, 2007 18:02:42 GMT 11
Justin may not want to reveal the current state of his anatomy or how long he spends in the gym.Maybe he's got one of those things they push on the infomercials.Lol,Harry.
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Post by geeves on Jan 12, 2007 18:13:34 GMT 11
ok A.B.S
happy?
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nig
Isuzu Junior
94 TD Rodeo
Posts: 123
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Post by nig on Jan 13, 2007 8:09:25 GMT 11
Depending on the age of your truck, it might be worth looking at the condition of the flexible brake lines - they can get soft with age.
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Post by JustinW on Jan 15, 2007 17:31:51 GMT 11
I have a nice set of abs, they're just covered with insulation! No I don't have A.B.S. The vehicle is a '97.
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Post by geeves on Jan 15, 2007 19:02:16 GMT 11
Some 96 Mus have ABS which is why I had to ask.
How hard is the brake pedal if you disconnect the vacume and use up whatever's in the tank
Dont do this with something in the way Without vacume the brakes dont work that well( try brakes dont work unless you use both feet and get the passenger to help)
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mudslinger
Isuzu Junior
needs more curry
Posts: 105
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Post by mudslinger on Jan 17, 2007 14:33:57 GMT 11
a way to test the brake booster is to pump the brakes til pedal is hard then start the truck,keepin pressure on the pedal you should feel the brake pedal move down. if booster isnt workin pedal wont move.
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Post by JustinW on Jan 17, 2007 14:37:08 GMT 11
Did the brake booster test and its OK. Off to the dealer on Friday.
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Post by JustinW on Jan 24, 2007 10:32:18 GMT 11
I am getting it narrowed down. I went to the dealer and the big chief there reckoned it was bypassing the masrter cylinder. Yeah right, it's got a new master cylinder. He did suggest clamping off the brake lines and trying the pedal to see if it is bypassing in the master cylinder. I've done this and it's not. (thank god!)
That leaves the calipers. The mushiness came back as I released the front brake clamps so I have ordered some new front disks, the existing ones have been machined before and are badly scored again, and the capiler seal kit. There is a new set of pads sitting on the shelf at home.
That should fix it. It is going to be a busy weekend, the jobs so far are:
1. Make new radiator top bracket (have lowered radiator back to proper position)
2. Install replacement engine in my Nissan Safari (old style MQ model 3.3L diesel)
3. Rebuild brakes
4. Help pack the starter packs for Motu Safari
5. Help my mate replace his auto in the Lexus powered Hilux
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Post by JustinW on Jan 29, 2007 12:03:51 GMT 11
Yiphee! I've now got brakes that work, even if it is only on three corners. Alan was right it was a seized locating pin. Managed to break the guide bolt off in the front caliper, but luckily knew someone local that was wrecking a Bighorn so could get a replacement on a Sunday morning. Job turned into a bigger exercise as we found the front wheel bearings were shot as well. I didn't install new seals in the calipers in the end as there was no sign of leaking and the pistons went all the way back easily. Put it all togeather and bleed it. Vast improvement.  We then decided to check the back and found a seized guide bolt there as well. Note in both cases it was the guide bolt (the upper one) not the locking bolt that was seized. This is probably because when I change the pads I take the locking bolt out and swing the caliper up to put the new pads in. Learning from the front we took the whole caliper off and tried to extract the pin using various methods including heat, press and we even drilled a hole in the end on the housing and tried to drift it out. No luck, all we did was break the casting! So the back left has no caliper on it and the brake line has a plain bolt in ithe fitting with a couple of copper washers so we can at least move it around. The back calipers off the wrecked Bighorn were gone so now I need to find a caliper before the weekend. From now on I'm going to pull the caliper pins every 10,000km and regrease them. |
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Post by geeves on Jan 29, 2007 13:06:06 GMT 11
Good to see were winning. When mine were playing up I was told to use rubber grease as it doesnt wash out like normal grease and can take the heat. eventualy after haveing to redo mine every 6 months I bit the bullet and bought the seal kits just to get new boots for the guide bolts. Its been 2 years since I last touched them
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Post by JustinW on Jan 29, 2007 15:51:00 GMT 11
I had bought the kit so used the boots out of it. Used copper kote instead of rubber grease. I find it's the best thing for anti seize and is water proof/resistant. Laying under it just now adjusting hand brake and checking diff oil I see I can take the guide bolts out, at least in the back, without even taking the wheels off.
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Post by geeves on Jan 29, 2007 16:00:05 GMT 11
I used to use copper coat but was advised to use the rubber grease It seemed to work a little better
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Post by 1logger on Jan 29, 2007 17:27:39 GMT 11
Hi Justin
Alan is right anti seize is not a dood idea it drys out and causes sticking slides it self
at work we use valvoline molygraph as this has givin us the best results and the copper coat for the bolt threads.
When seized heat should work fine I have just replaced all my calipers with 4 that I recond at workand 3 out of 4 needed heat to extract this is the 1st time i have touched the brake since purchased 3 yrs ago as a fresh import.
cheers
jeff
Ps . Alan two years you must be gettin close to a rekit
let me know if you need kits and ill see what i can come up with
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