clutch question

[mudgrip4]

Appreciate some help with a clutch issue. I put a new clutch in my 88 bighorn 11000ks ago and it has been great. Passes basic clutch test - i.e. when I put handbrake on and release clutch slowly at idle in first gear, the clutch starts to take at about one third pedal travel and is fully engaged by half travel - which is healthy.

However while it engages in this way at idle, I've just noticed that when driving under load - e.g. when accelerating at low speed in top gear, if I touch the clutch pedal even one inch - where there should be free pedal play - the clutch starts engaging now and the engine starts revving.

Seems weird. New clutch, but when actually driving it starts taking with pedal almost right out - a symptom that clutches are normally stuffed - but doesn't take right out on start up!!

Wondering if problem is hydraulic - problem with clutch cylinder, airblock etc which would make it so random - or just dud clutch job. If bleeding would help. Fluid reservoir doesn't seem to be down.

Ideas welcome

Mike.

[geeves]

Ive heard of a few cases lately where mud has got into the clutch mechanism and dried preventing the clutch from fully engaging. This has been on a variety of breeds. If you pull the cover off the clutch lever you should be able to see or feel if this has happened The fix is a little messy. If you can poke around with a screwdriver loosen as much as you can then run a hose through the hole for an hour with the engine running to dissolve and wash out the mud then drain it all through that nice custom drain you have and let it dry before driving This would be best done with the clutch operated by a block of wood at least overnight.
Best way of testing a clutch is on a decent hill at full power in 4th or 5th push the clutch in and release If the clutch is playing up this will make it slip.
Only other thing I can think of is that the clutch wasnt centered properly when installed. On the clutch that went in mine there was a leaflet that stated that there are 2 dowls on the bell houseing that are meant to center the bell housing on the engine. These are easily pushed into the bell housing if not correctly aligned. If this has happened the clutch will have been running eccentricly and most likly will now be worn out. A trap for young players

[geeves]

Just a quick thought although I dont think its your problem. The adjuster for freeplay is on the rod that attaches the master cylinder to the clutch peddle. You have to lay on your back with legs hanging over the seat back to get to it.

[mudgrip4]

Good - will check these options out tomorrow. Had chat with club mechanic tonight and he mentioned piston of slave or master cylinder? may be not operating fully. Will get to it this week.

Mike

[mudgrip4]

Got to bottom of this iregular clutch travel - was master cylinder. Replaced it with a new one for $48 incl. Amazing price. We used to pay twice this much and more for just a kit to repair them a few years ago.