drip, drip dri...

[quack]

the mus been leacking oil from i think the pinion seal in the rear diff and also the gearbox were the drive shaft comes out for a while now,

is this a big job to get fixed?
also there is a bit of a clunking noise coming from the rear when you back off on the gas and is more noticeable when i drive through drivethroughs as there is a wall to relect the sound and also im going slow and stoping and starting again,

is this just a matter of re torqing the pinion nut? went to see today if it was loose but i didnt have a big enough socket.

when i undone the u joint i accidently pulled/ it fell the shaft out of the gearbox an a bit of oil came out will this be right or will i need to top it up? only about 1/2 a handfull of oil came out


thanks for any help

[mudgrip4]

One thing to be EXTREMELY careful with is to tighten up the rear pinion nut to the precise torque setting recommended by the factory. I think from memory it is 137 ft/lbs (+ or - 10%). This has to be absolutely precise. It was not set correctly after a leaky pinion seal job on my rear diff years ago, and because the nut was tightened too much, it collapsed the spacer and destroyed rear diff bearings within 6 weeks. So whether doing the seal job yourself or through a garage, get the exact torque setting from Isuzu. The rear seal doesn't cost much - about $20 I think.

The back-of-gearbox seal is fairly quick and easy and the seal costs about $12.

Re clunk from rear - could be a few things, but do you have a lsd?

Mike

[quack]

nah none lsd.

to do the gearbox seal do you just take out the driveshaft and pull it out from there? how high should the oil be i.e if i was on flat ground will oil come out when the shaft is out?lf not then what kinda oil do i put back in?

to do the pinion seal do i just undo that nut and replace the seal and then re torque it back up? im sure i can get my hands on a torqure wrench and the right setting...

[geeves]

The diff has fairly thick oil so dosnt normaly leak much. Unless its leaking a lot dont worry about it. Its a good reason to start saving for a LSD. You could try a stop leak liquid if you like. Just check the level regularly.It should be full to the fill plug on the back. Unless you know what you are doing dont play with the flange which has to come off to do the seal. It also preloads the gears and you will break your diff.
Gearbox seal is easy. I have to do mine soon. Gearbox and transfer case level is at the fill bolts half way up the casing on the right hand side. They are 24mm bolts.If its a manual use a cheap engine oil.
The clunck might just be play in the diff which isnt the end of the world but might also be a universal failing. Climb underneath and try turning the driveshaft each way looking for movement at the diff and each universal joint. Ujoints should have no play at all

[beau]

the auto trans seal is a major if its leaking. get the rear output bearings changed aswell as the auto boxes dont have a spline shaft entering the gearbox... the manuals do there easy, pull the old seal from the end of the box with a screw driver, check the gearbox for irregularities, if all is ok slide in a new seal, dont use any sharp edged tools when doing so

as for the diff, i think you'll find that if the vehicals done more than 200,000 kms or spent most of its life on dirt roads the axle bearings are the clunking noise you are hearing when you take your foot off the gas, check around the hubs for any sign of oil. this will be more notable on the right hand side due to the stress of driving on cambered roads(universal problem for any make/model)

oil...parl the truck level. top up till its level with the filler bung (diff and gearbox)

and one more thing if your vehical has been raised its extendes the shafts on there splines so just check to make sure your splines have still got plenty of lateral movement before they come apart... this can cause (clunking) aswell when it goes slack from deceleration