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Post by mudgrip4 on Jun 8, 2006 9:49:53 GMT 11
Am going to do the clutch on my 88 bighorn shortly and trade prices vary from $225 up to $470 for the kit. The $225 option seems okay - it is a Daikin (Aussie) clutch. My club mechanic tells me they are pretty good so will probably go for this kit.
However as this supplier's (Partmaster) price is much less, I want to check their exact part numbers match my truck before I rip clutch out. Can someone help me with the numbers for the release (thrust) bearing, spiggot bearing, pressure plate and clutch plate for my truck. It is the 4jb1T, and chassis number is UBS55CK- 7100348.
Thanks Mike.
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Post by Harry on Jun 8, 2006 11:46:05 GMT 11
Make sure you change the gearbox front oil seal and the crankshaft rear oil seal while you're in there.Much better than having oil leak onto the new clutch and making it slip.I'll check those part nos later.
Harry.
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Post by geeves on Jun 8, 2006 12:02:58 GMT 11
Mine still leaks even after changing the seal. There is now a 2mm drain hole in the bell housing which can be sealed with mastic for wading.
get the flywheel machined at the same time and the new clutch will last much longer. Dont let the courier that takes it to the machinist misplace it like mine that went missing for a week
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Post by Harry on Jun 8, 2006 13:02:41 GMT 11
I got my clutch kit from Supacheap so nos may not apply.Clutch is R9600.Cover is R950-594N.Can't find old bearing so must have binned it.Gearbox oil seal is 27 x 43 x 8.
Regards,Harry.
Hey,allan.Got nothing to do?
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Post by geeves on Jun 8, 2006 15:07:14 GMT 11
quiet 30 sec between jobs and buying a winch on trademe.
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Post by mudgrip4 on Jun 8, 2006 17:07:04 GMT 11
Good idea - I'll do the rear main seal at the same time as clutch job - about $22 trade. What did you pay for your kit from Supercheap Harry?
Mike
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Post by mudgrip4 on Jun 10, 2006 18:22:03 GMT 11
Most interesting - just when I have new clutch job organised, the symptom of clutch slippage under load in 4th has completely disappeared.
When I drowned my truck in a deep river hole last year and got water in clutch, this made clutch excessively grippy - made it lurch a bit, feel very bitey for a day or two. This time the symptom after a river trip - no dunking involved - was simply slippage in 4th, but has also gone now. Much head scratching... any ideas on this welcome.
Mike
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Post by James W on Jun 10, 2006 19:51:46 GMT 11
Did you do any steep climbs? I think you did testing your locker. Years ago before I did up my engine I did a few steep climbs, bounced off a rut, into some srub and nearly over a bank with quite a bang. You know that steep hill climb up the lower Waiapra where we often stop for lunch? Well, I stayed there for some time while someone guided me slowly down. At the bottom I had a quick look around and oil was comming out of the starter!!!!. I guess oil from a leaky rear main oil seal had built up, probaly in a pool low in the bell housing but on the steep climb it shifted.
Could this be you slippy clutch problem? Now you are on level ground of the canterbuty plains it's gone? However I don't think you really have a leaky rear main oil seal do you?
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Post by geeves on Jun 10, 2006 20:47:29 GMT 11
If you can find a reasonable hill near you with a good straight Try going up in the highest gear you can and push the clutch in and out once quickly without lifting the gas. If its going to slip that will make it do so. Only other test if seen for a bad clutch is to drop clutch with the handbrake on. Might not work with Isuzu handbrakes though.. I had one company car where the Telecom mechanic tryed this test to convince me the clutch wasnt slipping. The engine just kept on running once the clutch was released. After that they belived me that the clutch was slipping
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Post by mudgrip4 on Jun 10, 2006 23:13:52 GMT 11
It did occur to me it might be a little bit of oil - seal leakage - in the bottom of the bell housing which had splashed up while on uneven ground, but I unscrewed the drain bolt (James' idea) on the bottom of the bellhousing a couple of days later and nothing came out. Dry as a bone.
Asked a mechanic friend of mine about this and he said the clutch in his Rocky had begun to slip a bit so he popped it out. Could find no fault with it so had it tested at a clutch shop who also found no fault. Put it back in his truck unchanged and it never did it again!
However, will do the hill test in a day or two. If nothing shows there then logically its likely to be a bit of seal leakage into the bellhousing, and just something to watch till it gets worse - at which point I'll do clutch and seal together.
Thanks, Mike
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Post by mudgrip4 on Jun 29, 2006 10:54:16 GMT 11
And just when I thought it was gone clutch starts slipping again after a river trip - and without prolonged immersion.
Questions: at what points in/on bellhousing can water actually get into clutch? And exactly what seals could leak oil onto clutch plates - no oil dropping on ground and nothing running out when I take out drain bung on bottom of bellhousing? Rrrrr..
Thanks Mike.
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Post by James W on Jun 29, 2006 12:54:38 GMT 11
It takes very little oil to make it slip, there may not be external evidence, and what little there is gets burned off the clutch. add a little water to a little oil and you get that nice and slippy mixture.
Check the clutch slave cylinder rubber boot for cracks and sealing.
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Post by geeves on Jun 30, 2006 18:55:11 GMT 11
Let us know how you get on with the clutch Mine might be doing the same thing. Got a little wet 2 weeks ago when stuck in a creek (15 min with grubber to get at towhook followed by pull 30 deg off line tow hook doesnt look happy any more) Clutch is only 18months old Oils seal was done at the same time but it still leaks if full to the full line
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Post by mudlark on Jun 30, 2006 21:32:46 GMT 11
Hi there I am going to do my 92 Mu clutch on Wednesday I am also doing rear mail seal on the crank witch I think has given me the slipping I was reading a few post's back about doing the front gear box seal too will my mu have the same seal if so I may as will do it to at the same time. I have got a heavy duty clutch and perisher plate so it will take the hidings I give it but it wont last if oil gets on it again I gees.  |
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Post by mudgrip4 on Jul 1, 2006 11:37:54 GMT 11
Had good look at clutch this morning with club mechanic. Dropped out bottom drain bolt and a few drops of oil came out plus maybe few drops water. Then checked everywhere for points where oil or water could get in and mechanic put compressed air nozzle into drain bung hole to pinpoint weak spots. Result no apparent problem round rear main seal or clutch rod entry point. Suggestion maybe there is a bit of oil seeping down from back of tappet cover gasket straight down onto top of bellhousing and into clutch plates from top. So added extra RTV around clutch rod connection and steam cleaned motor - will watch for seepage from back of motor area in next week or two.
Bottom line is clutch works fine but for post offroad slipping. In standard clutch test (i.e. put into first gear, handbrake on tight, and slowly let clutch out to see where it engages fully), it is fine and is fully engaged by half way out on its travel. If stuffed, clutches take right out at end of pedal travel. So a matter of tracking oil entry into clutch housing - and maybe a tad of water - the RTV should help the latter. Hope I can isolate it - save $350-400 for a new clutch.
Mike.
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Post by mudgrip4 on Aug 25, 2006 9:52:36 GMT 11
Out in a river a week or so ago and clutch slipping again after trip so will buy kit - $240 incl rear main seal from Partmaster, and club mechanic will put it in Saturday. About $400 all up. While I've got transmission off I want to have quick look at transfer case also - bearings, hardening etc - and will have to unbolt it and reassemble. As far as I can find out there is no gasket between transfer case and back of gearbox - just a bit of rtv sealant required. Can anyone confirm this?
Also thanks for tip Harry will do rear crankshaft oil seal at same time. It has always leaked a little - suspect its due to rear shackle and torsion bar lift changing shaft angles a wee bit so it doesn't seal 100%.
Thanks Mike
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Post by Harry on Aug 27, 2006 21:54:06 GMT 11
My clutch has started slipping again.Seems to come right after prolonged on road driving, like 200 km.A damn nuisance as the truck can't keep up or pass on steep passing lanes.Mechanic reckons if anything oil on clutch plate makes it more grippy.So it's got me stuffed.Maybe an auto will fix the problem.
Harry.
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Post by mudgrip4 on Aug 28, 2006 9:44:03 GMT 11
In my experience water on plates makes them excessively grippy but a bit of oil makes them slip - also club mechanic's advice. I get a drop or two of water and also of black engine color oil when I undo drain bung at bottom of clutch housing. Takes 3-500ks for slipping to clear after river trip. Suspect its the rear main seal letting go but will be able to see clearly when we pull it apart in a couple of weeks. Similar problem Harry - will post findings when we've done job.
Mike
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Post by mudgrip4 on Sept 16, 2006 15:18:12 GMT 11
Had my clutch done today by club mechanic - a total of 4.5 hours labour at $140 and $263 for clutch kit including clutch plate, pressure plate, thrust and spiggott bearings, plus rear main seal, front gearbox seal and rear crank seal = total $403 for whole job.
When gearbox was dropped off it was clear the rear main seal was ok, but there was seepage into clutch from front gearbox seal - the culprit. This will be of interest to harry/geeves etc also tracking down clutch slippage. Also clear though the clutch plates were stuffed - worn out.
Was a VERY GOOD IDEA to have the new set of seals on hand to put in to cover whatever was causing the leakage onto clutch - to cover every contingency. Recommend people buy these when doing any clutch job - only few bucks extra. Trade price for rear main $21, front gearbox seal about $10, rear crank seal about $13. Was most happy also to check shaft movement from gearbox, and unbolt and check transfer case and find both in spot on condition - the 2.8 units are certainly pretty tough.
Box feels great now - very smooth and slick - not quite in toyota corolla class but alot lighter in the clutch feel. And of course no slippage. Now for the rivers....
Mike.
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Post by geeves on Sept 16, 2006 20:11:40 GMT 11
Rear main and rear crank seal? Is there 2 seals in there? On mine I only saw one seal which was almost big enough for me to put my arm through
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