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Post by dasnoboarder on Oct 24, 2006 19:03:20 GMT 11
Ok, thinking about this kit:
-http://www.independent4x.com/item.jhtml?UCIDs=839915|1016330&PRID=1052383-
I just want to know which shocks to get out of the Pro Comp 3000 Pro Comp 9000 SkyJacker Hydro SkyJacker Nitro
89-95 Amigo. Everything should fit my 93 MU right?
I'm thinking I need diff drop brackets too, anyone know where to get them? Darlington Off-Road is apparantly out of business.
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Post by geeves on Oct 24, 2006 20:14:56 GMT 11
None of those shocks are common here so dont know. None of them are expensive shocks so try the Nitros unless you can get the kit without shocks. This will cut freight and customs costs. That kits not a bad price ie 825 US is roughly 1500NZ +freight +duty+GST or in quick numbers between 2000 and 2500 by the time it arrives Mulover in Invercargil made some diff lowering brackets for his Mu it might be worth contacting him to make some more but you might also get away with 1 inch spacers under the mounts. You cant go lower than this without the axle fouling the lower A arm. A 6 inch kit in a MU plus whatever tyres you are thinking of fitting is going to cause interesting road manners
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Post by Jimmu on Oct 24, 2006 20:48:43 GMT 11
That is pretty much what I have done just with the body lift 1" taller. Mine handles fine on the road. The body lift does not do much to the handling.
The 1/4 inch ball joint spacers must be to bring the wheels more from \ / to | |
I might have to get some for mine too
jimmy
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nig
Isuzu Junior
94 TD Rodeo
Posts: 123
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Post by nig on Oct 24, 2006 21:13:58 GMT 11
...but you might also get away with 1 inch spacers under the mounts. You cant go lower than this without the axle fouling the lower A arm. Anyone got any details of this mod - ie what do you make the spacers out of, do you need longer bolts, any other issues that need to be considered ? I am looking for a way to get my Rodeo's front diff a bit lower so I can jack it a bit more without stressing the CVs out too much
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Post by geeves on Oct 25, 2006 6:11:03 GMT 11
The idea of spacers between the mounts and the diff is untested therory. Let us know if it works. I would use the same stuff as used for body lifts ie high density polythene or aloy.
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Dave
Isuzu Senior
Posts: 169
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Post by Dave on Oct 25, 2006 15:59:53 GMT 11
I run Procomp 9000 on the Safari, and they work very well. They are a very popular choice over in oz for Patrol's/Safari's and they seem to last well and take the punishment.
Mine weigh's over 2500kg when fully laden, so any shocks that can handle that must be good.
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Post by dasnoboarder on Oct 25, 2006 16:00:17 GMT 11
Ok, so the Nitro's or 9000's are best... Why did you suggest the Nitro's geeves?
Will the CV's be reasonably ok with a 3" front lift if I don't do any hardcore wheeling untill I find a way to lower the diff?
I guess the only way I can pay for it is via Mum's credit card, banks don't let 16 yr olds have them...
As Jimmu said, the body lift doesn't change the handling much, with the add-a-leaf and new torsion bars, it should be stiffer and sweet as.
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Post by geeves on Oct 25, 2006 18:27:50 GMT 11
On the list of shocks on there own they were the most expensive. Wishfull thinking dictates that this should mean they are the best but life isnt always like that. I dont like the add a leaf system of raising things as it reduces travel. You can get good shocks and rear springs here at good prices similar to theres without worrying about freight etc. It might be worth contacting them and seeing if they can do the kit without the shocks and add a leaves at a good discount and save the freight and customs. Also just to confuse more have you looked at the Calmini kits. (www.pureisuzu.com) They have an agent now living in Napier I can get the details if needed.
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Dave
Isuzu Senior
Posts: 169
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Post by Dave on Oct 25, 2006 18:40:52 GMT 11
I ran a 3" lift in my 92 Bighorn, and had problems with the cv circlips coming off, allowing the cvs to slide back and forth in the hub. Didn't break anything, buy still wasn't the best.
Also found that the offroad performance didn't improve much, as the front has no droop left due to the front arms being so close to the bumpstops (trimming would cause too much cv angle), so kept lifting the front wheel. Cranking the torsion bars also stiffened the front end too much which worsened things, so the drop diff setup would also help here I presume (less tension required on the torsion bars for the lift?)
I'd be looking into whether or not a 3" body lift is worth it too, you may need to modify your gear levers, cut the tranny tunnel which may mean your factory boots no longer seal.
I went down the same track with my Bighorn, and wouldn't do it again. IMHO, I'd go for new 2" springs (from HiMuZuLux?), as add a leaf is a cheap way to lift, and will stiffen the back up too much and the biggest body lift you can do that doesn't need major mods. This will allow 33's (any bigger you better have $$$ for repairs), and the extra can go on a front lokka. Any higher on a IFS is for looks, and in some cases may be worse off road.
My 2c
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Dave
Isuzu Senior
Posts: 169
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Post by Dave on Oct 25, 2006 18:50:28 GMT 11
For $2500, you could do a 4" lift (2+2), have it certed, and have a front diff lock with change, and you'll go a lot further than you would on a 6" lift.
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Post by dasnoboarder on Oct 25, 2006 18:59:41 GMT 11
Dammit! You guys always manage to reason against my extreme ideas ... I'll look into finding some diff drop brackets. If I can find some, I'll prob go ahead with the 3" suspension. If I can't, I'll settle for 2" and save some cash ... and travel. If I have trouble finding the brackets, I'll just do the body lift now and wait for suspension. Am getting a front lokka and rear LSD either way. ;D
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Post by geeves on Oct 25, 2006 19:14:50 GMT 11
What ever you do remember that the more capable your truck the harder to recover it will be when you do get stuck.
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Dave
Isuzu Senior
Posts: 169
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Post by Dave on Oct 26, 2006 4:59:05 GMT 11
Sorry, don't want to put you off, its just I learnt the hard way (and expensive). What ever you decide, as long as your happy with it and you enjoy yourself out there, then thats all that matters anyway
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Post by turnturn on Oct 26, 2006 10:28:49 GMT 11
Dasnoboarder, sort of along the lines of what geeves has touched on, have you purchased any recovery gear? I've found that quite often a lightly modified truck with good recovery gear can be much more practical. The recovery is half the fun, isn't it?
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Post by dasnoboarder on Oct 26, 2006 20:14:24 GMT 11
I'll be getting front & rear recovery points hopefully done at the same place that will fit my lokka (and of course tow strops, shackles etc). Will start booking things in when I find a definate answer about these diff drop brackets.
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Post by geeves on Oct 27, 2006 7:12:43 GMT 11
How much 4wding have you done? All these mods will give you a very capable truck but if you then find you dont like 4wding you will also find you can only get a fraction of what you spent on mods back when you sell the whole thing. ie 4 simex tyres cost 1400 to buy but on truck with 1000km and molding marks still visable they will only add 100 to 200 to the trucks value. Similar things happen with suspension. The road map I would be following to your ideal pride and joy is A: fit towhooks and get recovery gear. B: join a 4wd club in your area do there training and a few trips. You will be suprised how capable your vehicle is now with some experiance. Ask here what clubs other clubisuzu people in your area belong to? C:then think about the mods. Ive been 4wding for not quite 10 years with the bighorn The only mods its had are 30mm lift 31 inch tyres and recently a winch.
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Post by dasnoboarder on Oct 27, 2006 20:18:48 GMT 11
I have done a training course and spend days on friend's farms (and surrounding areas with permission), just having fun and testing the truck.
I haven't got much experience under my belt ... but I got through the paddock which I got stuck in last time today with ease (new techniques and knowledge). Bottomed out a few times and had body-ground contact ... so thats the reason I want the lift & traction aids...
Will get proper recovery points and lokka installed ... hmm ... maybe in the week before exams (3 weeks away) ... would be a tactic to keep me at home and study ...
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Post by dasnoboarder on Oct 27, 2006 20:27:24 GMT 11
Talked to Mulover about the diff drop brackets, according to him the largest drop you can do is 20mm or else your inner cv's will pop out on full compression. And 3" IFS lift is a waste of time. It sounds like it will make off-road capabilities worse with the stiffness of the torsion bars.
So. I'm going to do my body lift, 33's, LSD and lokka in the holidays coming up. Followed by exhaust and engine stuff etc. And after all that devise a 2" suspension lift, using only a few of the parts from Independant 4X, like the IFS kit with ball joint spacers and low-profile bumpstops.
Done.
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