Top Mount Intercooler Fit Up

[Jimmu]

I finally made the time to fit the scoop and make up some new mounting brackets for the intercooler.

I made the brackets out of galvanised steel and rubber mounted them to hopefully absorb some vibration.

Now for the scoop fit up.

1. Pull out the sound deadening and cut the ribbing



The sound deadening was a bit weak and did not take well to being removed.

Having just bought a new fine 125mm cutting wheel the ribbing was sliced like a hot knife through butter.

2. Matching the rubber boot to the core



Making sure it matched up was the hardest part. After much measuring and trying to mark the spots accurately by closing the bonnet with a nikko in the right spot I took an educated guess and drilled a pilot hole.

In the end my first hole was about 20mm off so I corrected and drilled the rest using the boot holes as a jig.



The almost finished hole and boot mouting points. I cleaned it up a fair bit after this pic with an angle grinder.

3. Next came the priming both sides to slow down the cancer



4. Fitting the boot and the scoop to opposite sides



I sliced the sound deadening to fit back around the scoop neatly.

The scoop was mounted using 4 points only as the front and back centre points were raised to high and the scoop would not sit flush with the bonnet. I used double sided tape right around to give some added adhesion and prevent rattles etc.

5. The finished product



The scoop was mounted dead centre and as far forwards as practical.

Now I have to fit the thermo fan to the core and the project will be finished.

I will have to wait until next weekend to take her for a spin as the AC compressor needs to be replaced before I can drive it.

I expect it will have a tad more pep than before.

Mainly she is now ready for 15-20psi and a major fuel pump wind up

Jimmy

[Mike]

Slightly off-topic. I've obtained a couple of Subaru air/water intercoolers (one's a spare)... thanks again Andrew for looking after them for me.

Fitting has proved problematic, there's simply nowhere to put it. The best spot is either on top where an air/air would go, but the cooler is too tall, as it comes off a flat four and has the outlet underneath. There isn't the expertise here to modify it. An alternate spot is where the brake booster sits but the aircon pipes need modifying, again, no expertise here to do so. The space would be very tight even so.

The battery area is a perfect size but the alternate area (by the brake booster) is too small for a replacement.

Looks like I'll be waiting until I get to the mainland.

In the meantime I might mount the water pump and cooler, just to get it started. As I have the Subaru two-speed pump I'll be looking into setting up the cut-off points for that, maybe 18 and 38C (there's a commonly available switch for the latter).

[adam]

mike (or anyone else whose fitted the suburu water air intercooler): did you ever finish it ?

any pics of the finished product?

I would be very interested in doing the water - air intercooler as I can see it being very advantageous offroad where there isnt a lot of airflow.

that said, people putting thermos on the intercooler seem to not have any problems with over heating either... so it might just be easier to fit the jack cooler with a thermo switch to automatically kick in when the cooler gets warm ?

thought anyone?

[InVinceble]

Slightly off topic for you Mu guys - but it's definately worth fitting a fan to an intercooler on a Bighorn. I paid Supercheap $50 for a 12" version, which covers the full width and slightly overlaps front & rear. My 2" body lift allowed me to mount it over the intercooler and I made a couple of plates for the sides to re-align the shroud with the intake rubber boot. I wired it to the switched wire of the rear wiper. Runs whenever the engine does. Makes naff all differance as far as the alternator loads goes.
I didn't think it would make that much of an improvement, rather thought $50 and a small amount of effort (under 2 hrs) couldn't heap much reward. ... but I was wrong. Off to the forest today there's a reasonable climb up tar seal & gravel, well gear changes were considerably later, the truck sped up the hill like never before. In the forest I found more low down power, again retreading over tracks with less revs than had used previously. Today has been quite a weird experience, I'm still a bit sceptical about it. Wish I knew someone with a dyno.
It should be made law that all Isuzus with intercoolers must fit a cheap arse fan!!

[Jimmu]

I have yet to connect the thermo but it is all set up on the core.

I have noticed the Intercooler alone has provided a bunch more torque.

really noticeable not having to drop back to 3rd where I needed to before and the torque pulls from 1800rpm where before it was 2100 or so.

Engine runs quieter and actually feels smoother.

I cannot wait until I fuel it up.

Jimmy

[agin]

Hello to everyone
I’ am a new one here, and find a lot of interesting topics on MU,
Sorry for off topic, but this question is really tearing me up – is there any possibility of installing blow-off valve to 4jb1t engine? Will it give some advantage or wont work at all (no butterfly valve in intake?)

[geeves]

Blow off valve does 2 things.
first it relives ecess pressure which on a petrol engine can hapen if lift the throtle at high revs. On a diesel this is less likly to happen and is allowed for by the overpressure valve in the intake manifold.
second by releasing this presure the turbo is kept up to speed durring gear changesreducing lag. As airflow is not restricted on a diesel this has far less effect. Lag is not a real issue on diesels.
The overpressure valve in the manifold could be considered a blow off valve although its purpose is slightly different. It opens at around 16psi

[Jimmu]

The two things are really the same. The lag that a BOV relieves is caused by a sudden backpressure buildup when the throttle is closed reaching the compressor wheel of the turbo and slowing it down. This not only reduces the boost for the next gear (It has to speed up again) but puts undue pressure on the blades. No throttle no backpressure buildup no slow down no need for a BOV.

No Chi Chi Chi or Pacshoo either which I have to admit the boy racer in me loves.

Jimmy

[James W]

"No Chi Chi Chi or Pacshoo either which I have to admit the boy racer in me loves."

Arh, thats where an on board air compressor is good. Mine has an unloader that goes 'Pacshoo' when it's up to pressure. so a button on the dash to get 'Pacshoo' . Great at the lights and stationary next to some boy racer.... it screws with their heads. Do it several times at idle for even more confusion....

[geeves]

You also need the cd with the lovely V8 sound and if your parked behind some boy racer you realy dont like the cd with the sound of tyres failing in an attempt to stop.

[agin]

Thanks a lot for answers guys

[nic513]

Thanks Very Much for the Information and Pictures. I did this today and it only took a few hours (including finding and buying the TMIC

Only got to find a Jackaroo Scoop and install a fan now.....

[Jimmu]

Thermo Fan is wired up and operational.

It pumps a fair bit of air through there which should help off roading at slow speeds.

Now for the fuel up

Jimmy

[muvit madness]

your truck looks awsome dude great tidy job on the i/c fit up & scoop. i remember when mine was all one colour.anyways let us know when & what you do to the fuel pressures it'l be interesting to see the differance it does in performance & psi?.

[JustinW]

Talked to a diesel guru a while ago and he reckoned intercooling my engine (3.1TD) would give it about 7hp more BUT up to 30% more torque! (this assumes big eaxhaust, increased fuel and higher boost)

[Jimmu]

Those are the figures I am aiming for. 40% would be nice

Jimmy

[Jimmu]

As it turns out it did better than I thought it would with a 54% increase in power and 63% increase in torque!

Jimmy

[Jimmu]

I made up and fitted a water spray kit this afternoon. Just used off the shelf items and jerry rigged a switch in the cabin for on/off. All up it cost $32.25 . It has its own reservoir and I am using a garden misting nozzle aimed at the intake end of the core. I was hoping for more of a mist out the nozzle but the spray is fairly fine and even.

It is my first attempt at anything electrical and I probably broke all the rules but I have a reservoir with a windcreen wiper pump on it grounded to the body. The +tve is run through a switch in the cabin directly to the battery. Should I have a fuse or something?

It seems to work well at keeping the core nice and cool and there is a noticeable improvement in pick up. Now to find a more automated way of switching.

I have a thermo switch from a thermo fan I am not using maybe hooking that up to the core somehow will do the trick, but it may not be sensitive enough.

Jimmy

[Graham]

Hi Jimmy,

You should have a fuse, just to be safe, and it should be as close to the battery as possible. eg 1' from battery rather than inside the cabin.

If you use the thermo switch, I would think it might need to go through a relay. Does the switch have anything on it that might indicate how many amps or watts it is rated for? You could even wire it to a dash light so that you would know when the spray was operating.

Do you have any way of measuring the temps and seeing if it helps???

Cheers, Graham.

[geeves]

I would of wired it through the ignition One day you will leave it on and when you come back to the car a day or 2 later and turn the key nothing will happen. Wireing through the ignition will turn it off when you stop the engine. Definatly fit a 10 amp fuse as well just in case.
How much water does it use?