Front LSD ?

[roga]

Has anyone got a lsd in the front?
Do you know what fits?
My MU is a 1990 2.8 manual
Thanks
Roga

[Bruce]

Do not go there put a Lokka in $575 Aus

[polcat]

bruce2 said:

Do not go there put a Lokka in $575 Aus

agree much easier and gives much more capability, and it's cheap!! ;D

[James W]

A lokka might give more capabiltity of the vehicle but also of breaking CV's... I have always thought a LSD in the front would give a good compromise of traction but have a bit of give for high CV load situations, i.e. rearing off the ground and back down. With a lokka that would be a nasty shock load, a LSD will have a little give and save CV's.. In my mind the right combination (short of traction control) is a rear locker and front LSD.... even a tight one. If a front LSD came up for sale I would buy one....

My $0.02 worth :-)

[geeves]

Front lsd for a Mu or late bighorn is the rear lsd from an early bighorn (drum brake model pre 88 with 2.3 diesel)

[roga]

I hav just fitted a lokka to my Mu. What a differance ! I will never go back to a std open diff or a lsd . This thing now climbs like a mountain goat and you dont have to run at hills and end up bouncing and breaking a cv. Just slow and steady and you will climb with the best of them. If you lift a front wheel (and who dosnt) you still keep moving
There you are..........Rave is over ;D ;D

[Jimmu]

Yeah What Roga Said!

My family comes from Fongaray

Jimmy

[polcat]

jamesw said:

A lokka might give more capabiltity of the vehicle but also of breaking CV's... I have always thought a LSD in the front would give a good compromise of traction but have a bit of give for high CV load situations, i.e. rearing off the ground and back down. With a lokka that would be a nasty shock load, a LSD will have a little give and save CV's.. In my mind the right combination (short of traction control) is a rear locker and front LSD.... even a tight one. If a front LSD came up for sale I would buy one....

My $0.02 worth :-)

This is the ever debatable decision, given the fact that lokka's are automatic most people do not understand how they work and the fact that they do not do CV's, small tip here when fitting a lokka auto diff lock add a couple of washers to the mounting bolts above the diff effectively dropping the diff by that much and thus reducing the amount of flex the CV's are exposed to.

most CV that I am aware of have broken through too much power and or where air operated locks are applied!

have run a lokka on my Trooper (bighorn) for the past 6 months it sorted the weak part of the traction equation, the IFS! combined with the LSD rear no more probs, go for it. ;D ;D ;D

[dasnoboarder]

I've got a front Lokka and rear LSD. That's the way to go I think . Even though on my first testing of the Lokka I got stuck in the mud ... was just over-confident ;D .

[geeves]

both the people I have seen break cvs were wheels in the air and full noise immediatly before hand. Whether the loka can be blamed is questionable

[quack]

were does everyone get there front lokas from? also what kind of prices??

i dont think that the back of my mu has a lsd either, would i be best to add one to it or change the hole diff with one allready there? or just add a loka

[polcat]

Hi Quack, go here, www.4wdsystems.com.au/html/lokka.htm, this is where I got mine, $508 AUD delivered to Wellington, fantastic!! took me 12 hrs to fit from start to finish but in a garage and semi solo not bad, next one would be quicker.

re your LSD question, it is up to you, given the price if it was me I would simply fit a Lokka in the back and flag fitting a LSD, Bighorns have the LSD already so the front Lokka made sense.


cheers

[geeves]

I dont think the rear loka is available yet leaving only arb as a good but expensive option.
Rear LSD is available new but the price should only be administered to someone sitting down. Better to get one second hand from a wreckers Look for the G80 code on the chassis plate.
To change is fairly easy just pull the axles and replace the head assembly. Make sure your ratios are the same and remember its heavy when handling while lyeing under the car

[James W]

I'm not balming lokkas for broken CV's, but it is another factor for the death of CV's along with, torsion bar winds, ball joint flips, trimmed bump stops etc.... and Mike (mudgrip4) has been set up for a couple years with no CV's gone, but since a lokka i think hes up to 3.... ya get the extra traction at the cost of more drive train stress... myself no CV's gone yet (and no lokka) and I have dents galore and aint soft on it (see my avatar).
Rear LSD prices you should be sitting down? how come it's about the same as a Lokka, say $600 and in my case a good option as my diff was naffed anyway... so was cheaper than a diff + lokka...

hey but each to his/her own :-)

[mudgrip4]

Re cvs - in 5 years of intensive offroading - 250 tracks - I busted one while on open diffs, but had to be especially thick to do so. Hit a large covered rock ext hard on a nite trip , and then smacked it again just to make sure... click click click...

No cv probs after fitting rear lsd. - LSD is in my humble opinion the most useful traction addition for most offroading if you use a good oil, and it is tight enough. No maintenance and no potential WOF worries.

After fitting front lokka busted one but this was not from normal 4x4 driving. Had a broken tie rod with wheels pointing together in front and had to try and drive the truck in this state to a place I could recover it. CV broke while truck bouncing off banks either side of truck with virtually no steering. I'm surprised more bits didn't break. Very bad experience.

Later busted one when stuck deep in a river with water running through truck whilst on a bunny shooting trip. It would be inappropriate for me to mention that it was JamesW above who drove the truck into the river, so I will. ;D We got it out ok.

What I found to be critical is exactly what other local clubmen with isuzus had told me - it is the powering on when wheel is at full lock that can break cvs - esp when wheel is trapped in ruts or heavy river gravel. Bouncing is also not recommended. Once you learn this there is no real problem..

I'm still amazed with the extra traction the front lokka provides - literally doubles climbing ability I had with just rear lsd. Love it, and it makes it one hell of a competitive little truck. So if I already had a rear lsd, I'd go for a front lokka rather than a front lsd with the proviso that you must use them carefully as above. Use them right and you don't have to bust cvs, and they are a blast in terms of offroad performance.

And of course use James's truck when going bunny shooting...

Mike

[geeves]

What I found to be critical is exactly what other local clubmen with isuzus had told me - it is the powering on when wheel is at full lock that can break cvs - esp when wheel is trapped in ruts or heavy river gravel. Bouncing is also not recommended. Once you learn this there is no real problem..
This breaks cvs in most trucks even those with live axles. At least ours are fairly easy and clean to change.
Cost of rear lsd second hand is around 400 to 450 but this is a complete diff head. New from www.genie4x4.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=81 is 999. They also have the 10 bolt one that will go in the front at the same price.It will need setting up on top of that. As a comparison a front loka from the same place is 689 NZ and aparantly easy to fit

[quack]

hmm, theres alway lsd complete diffs on trade me for not much? would these be sweet? how do i know what my ratios are?

while doing the rear suspention would be a good time to change the diff right?

[geeves]

An lsd from a bighorn or Mu made after 88 will be ok in a mu but check your ratio. Ive posted how to do this on the car several times lately. To do it on a diff head just count the teeth and divide.
If you have a complete diff it will be very easy to change at the same time as the springs but you end up paying double the freight to get it delivered. When I bought my LSD off Harry Im sure he would of prefered me to take the whole diff but taking just the head was far easier as it fitted in a bucket wedged inbetween family and camping gear. (hint at this point even lsd diffs dont smell good in a hot car) Apart from the weight they are not hard to change. A lot easier than an oil filter

[quack]

so best to buy one local at a wreackers than ay.

whats the deal with tightening them and stuff? do i have to wory about this or just slap it in and put some nice oil in it?

[geeves]

Mine was std and made a huge difference. Mudlark had his adjusted so is in a better position to tell you what is involved and how much difference it made