|
|
Post by dasnoboarder on Nov 21, 2006 12:35:17 GMT 11
Went into 4wd systems Auckland today. They do not sell Lokkas anymore. He said i'd have to source one from elsewhere and then he'd put it in. I've asked himuzulux about a Lokka, and if he can't get me one, the only other option is to go directly to 4wd systems Aus. Talking to my mate today (a drifting nut), he said screw paying that much for a locked front diff. Why not just weld a open diff together and save lots of money. As with manual hubs, the truck will still freewheel normally, but when locked, it will be fully locked. Rugged style.  What are your opinions? |
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Nov 21, 2006 15:01:34 GMT 11
Do you want to go round corners while off road or will straight lines do? Welding diffs is not a wise move. try genie4x4 for lockas as well. www.genie4x4.com/diff_lockers.htm |
|
|
|
Post by JustinW on Nov 21, 2006 15:15:40 GMT 11
Don't weld the front. You will have all sorts of problems turning off road. One of the forum members (who is overseas working at the moment or he would probably reiterate this) did this and is now looking for a new front diff head. Alan will confirm it but I'm sure a rear LSD diffhead out of a pre 86 bighorn will fit in the front of the post 86 Mu. Isuzu LSDs are effectively an auto locker. Although a Lokka that positively unlocks might be better.
|
|
|
|
Post by James W on Nov 21, 2006 15:23:40 GMT 11
I think the turning radius a 4WD'er expects is somewhat smaller than what a drifter needs. In the tricky spots the turning radius is to large even with an open diff.
I think in drifter speek will this be front drift? rather than the traditional rear driff that driffers go for....?
|
|
|
|
Post by dasnoboarder on Nov 21, 2006 15:24:19 GMT 11
I suppose it only works for the drifters because they are on the rear wheels, and they want to lose traction, not get more ... The Auckland 4wd Systems guy said he stopped selling them because they arn't very good quality and just didn't like their construction. I searched through old posts, and couldn't find any with troubles because of fitting a Lokka. I am getting an LSD rear. Will a Lokka be better than an LSD on the front? I want as much lock as possible as on-road, i will have my manual hubs unlocked. I am rather confused about the Lokka's operation. It locks the wheels while still allowing differential operation??? My drifter mate thinks it's just a mechanical LSD device. True? ... Just a random, way out there thought ... How much would an ARB air system cost, installed for each diff and the compressor?   |
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Nov 21, 2006 19:24:08 GMT 11
Try this for a detailed but simple explanation.http://www.pps.net.au/4wdencounter/articles/difflocks.html
The auto locker is a strange beast but it does work. The trick up its sleave that allows differention action is that the wheel with the most torque applied can be travelling slower than the other wheel ie either wheel is free to travel faster than the driveing force. This is exactly the oposite of a normal diff. They do click and bang while turning but in a diesel 4wd you aint going to here it and who cares what others here.
Arb manual lockers are best but you have to learn how to use them as you cant turn with a manual locker engaged and they cost about 3 times as much. Ive heard of more manual lockers breaking than I have auto lockers. There was an artical in a 4wd mag about 3 years ago where they went out with a farmer who was negotiating a slip. In a 20 meter section of track he engaged and disengaged the locker 32 times depending on wether he needed to drive straight with no traction on one side or needed to turn. Auto locker takes care of all this for you but in very slippery conditions ie super slimy clay they might cause turning probs. Its not often you have those conditions
|
|
nig
Isuzu Junior
94 TD Rodeo
Posts: 123
|
Post by nig on Nov 21, 2006 19:31:10 GMT 11
Thought I would put my $.02 worth in after living with a front locker for the last year and a bit.
In a word it is great. The real value is that is still keeps driving when a front wheel is off the ground, which I dont think a ramp-loading LSD will do.
I have the standard Rodeo LSD in the back, albeit shimmed up tight and it works well, but will not lock up unless under load - get a rear wheel of the ground and it still takes the drive and the one on the ground goes nowhere. It does work in mud and such like, and responds to a bit of handbrake to keep it in line in soft stuff.
The difference with a Lokka like I have in the front is that the only way a wheel can not get drive is by actually going faster then the driven wheel, releasing the ratchet. Under power it locks up, but now mine is worn in it unlocks easily as soon as you take your foot of the throttle pedal (was a bit unpredictable with the unlocking when new). A welded diff wont do this and would be a real pig to drive in mud or sand.
So the Lokka takes a bit of learning, but for the price it works well. Of course if you are a bit flush then go to ARB, their airlocker is definately the best but putting one in dosent leave you much change from 2 grand, and a second adds about another $1500
|
|
|
|
Post by dasnoboarder on Nov 21, 2006 19:41:38 GMT 11
Right. Sounds like ARB is too expensive. Welding too rugged and not very practical. LSD still too loose. I'll wait a couple of days to see if himuzulux replies, and if he doesn't or can't get me a Lokka, I'll order one from Genie4x4.
Thanks for the help.
|
|
|
|
Post by Jimmu on Nov 21, 2006 22:28:12 GMT 11
I have a Lokka in mine for 1 year. No complaints so far.
Jimmy
|
|
|
|
Post by James W on Nov 22, 2006 6:08:09 GMT 11
"Sounds like ARB is too expensive. Welding too rugged and not very practical. LSD still too loose"
yes, but a LSD is a clear advantage over a open diff, and a locker diff a clear advantage over a LSD. LSD oil has a large influence, good LSD oil gives more bite.
|
|
|
|
Post by dasnoboarder on Nov 22, 2006 6:13:41 GMT 11
LSD oil has a large influence, good LSD oil gives more bite. When I get my rear LSD I'll look into a rebuild (how much are they usually? Thinking of going to "Diffs 'R' Us") and try to get my hands on that Redline? diff oil that has been mentioned here before.  |
|
|
|
Post by Harry on Nov 22, 2006 20:04:00 GMT 11
Has anyone pulled an Isuzu lsd to bits?I'm curious to know whether it's tensioned by springs or shims so I know in advance how to tighten it up.
Regards,Harry.
|
|
|
|
Post by justin on Nov 23, 2006 8:28:02 GMT 11
I had my Lokka in for 2 years and it's still going in the truck as far as I know. They have a lifetime guarantee so the quality should not be a worry. I broke 2 Cv's during that time but that was me being a leadfoot, drive carefully and it will be fine. Yarno had ARB air lockers front and rear, prior to the SAS and the performance was amazing and I would say this is the ultimate locking solution but the price is very heavy. J
|
|
|
|
Post by dasnoboarder on Nov 23, 2006 15:17:19 GMT 11
Just picked up my LSD from Isuzu Truck Bits (Bits For Isuzu), Auckland. ($445 incl GST)
It's a 3.1L one, but they said it's better because it's stronger and bolts straight in.
When I get some of that Redline oil, I'll install it. (What is the best way? Unbolting the driveshaft first? Then the bolts around the circumference?)
Very happy with it, looks like good condition from the outside, great guys at Truck Bits.
Gave me a discount because I got some clear tail lights at the same time.
Andy
|
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Nov 23, 2006 15:28:28 GMT 11
You did check the ratios didnt you? Apart from possible ratio differences they are the same dif.
Most 2.8 mus are 4.56 ratio but a lot of the 3.1s are 4.3. Double check this before the warrentee runs out or you fit it.
Fitting is fairly easy.Drain diff. Jack up the back end and remove wheels and brake calipers and discs. Unbolt the 4 bolts that hold each axle in and partialy remove axles. Climb underneath and unbolt driveshaft then all the bolts that hold the diff in. Pull it out carfully remembering how heavy it is. I did mine lieing under the diff so I could support the weight on my chest. Fit the new diff the same way and assemble. You need a line of good sealant around the diff housing as it doesnt use a gasket. Should take under 3 hours. Remember safty while jacking up the car and working under it ie axle stands etc.
|
|
|
|
Post by dasnoboarder on Nov 23, 2006 15:36:23 GMT 11
Yea, my mate and I checked and decided it was a 4.56 diff a while back. The only difference is the 3.1L is supposedly a bit tougher and has a square flange instead of a round one, bolting to the driveshaft like the 2.8L. The guys at Truck Bits said it was a 4.55 (4.56) and that mine should be too. Is there a way of checking with the diff head out? Dividing number of teeth or something? (Just to double check). So all I need is sealant, LSD oil, and to follow your instructions Can someone give me a phone number for a Redline oil retailer? Preferably Auckland/North Island. Can't find much online inside NZ. Andy |
|
nig
Isuzu Junior
94 TD Rodeo
Posts: 123
|
Post by nig on Nov 23, 2006 18:33:30 GMT 11
Has anyone pulled an Isuzu lsd to bits?I'm curious to know whether it's tensioned by springs or shims so I know in advance how to tighten it up. Regards,Harry. I did not actually do my diff - I leave that sort of stuff to the experts, but from looking in the workshop manual it is a done by juggling friction discs in the plate pack - they seem to come in 2 thicknesses and there are 4 of them in each side. If you want the specs I can scan it and send it to you |
|
|
|
Post by Harry on Nov 23, 2006 20:34:12 GMT 11
I'd appreciate that thanks.Email address is vanlent@actrix.co.nz.
Regards,Harry.
|
|
|
|
Post by geeves on Nov 24, 2006 8:56:05 GMT 11
With the lsd both axles turn together so its quite easy to turn the pinion and count the times it goes round to a full revolution of the axle. As you dont have the axles you might need a paint mark on an obvious point of the axle spline to know how far youve gone
|
|
|
|
Post by dasnoboarder on Nov 24, 2006 20:57:00 GMT 11
Yup. The LSD is 4.55 (4.56). And 95% sure my current open diff is.
|
|
